I have a 2003 Range Rover TD6 and would like to fit a sub. I have changed head unit. I am thinking of fitting amp in left and side of boot behind trim. Has any one done this? If yes could you send me some pictures so i can see how you fitted it. Also where is the best place to take power from.

 

Hello
I have a 2006 LR3 with HK audio and want to add an additional amp and sub-box by tapping into the sub-out of the existing amp, and stepping down the level to go into a processor which will feed my sub-amp. My question is: Does anyone know which are the sub out wires from the HK amp under the passenger seat? I suppose I could take apart the back door and trace them, but if anyone has already gone through this process, it would be nice to skip on to the installation. Thanks for any help you might have.
Moke Morgan
Greenville SC USA
...here is my direct email in case:
mokemorgan@bellsouth.net

 

I just got done doing a whole rework of the audio in my D2, spent WAYY more than i probably should have but o well. IMHO i would ditch the whole lot man. Get yourself an after market head unit, then either bypass the factory amps or use them depending on the output of the new head unit and if you are using factory speakers or not. The HK speakers are not that bad as long as you cut out anything about 100htz and below, your sub will make up for cutting these frequencies out. Trying to tie in to the existing system just does not end up well, you get something that does not work as well nor sound as good and you will end up spending just as much money as you would have if you just replaced it. Hope this helps. I will email you the wiring diagram though.

 

I got your email with the diagram... and replied via email.

When I get this project finished I will submit photos and info on what I've done with my 2006 LR3.
Moke Morgan

 

Can I get that Diagram PLEASE? I would truly appreciate it! my email address is rhodes.shane83@gmail.com.

thanks fellas!! I just want to tie into the Subs, I installed my JL Audio Amp this weekend and I'm going to use the sub signal to rca X-over and see how that works, if I don't like it than I will just start over and see what happens. But please let me get that diagram from ya!!

thanks again!

 

To get the signal, I opened up the rear door (really easy) and traced the wiring from the dual voice coil 10" Sub into the harness located in the rear quarter panel (LHD) driver side (behind the detachable plastic cover). (The cables are green + and green with white stripe -). I also pulled out the little foam cargo tray (jack storage) so I could access the cables and re-route them to the amp location, which is under the sub-flooring just in behind the rear seats and in front of the foam tray. It fits perfectly!
I put in a 1000 watt high-end amplifier with an audio processor (to drop the output to low-level), which goes into an electronic crossover (so I can control the frequency and input voltages) which feeds the power amp. I used a two channel bridged amp that runs at 2 ohms. Each channel drives 2 - 4 ohm sub-woofers (wired in parallel to create the 2 ohm load).
Then, here's the info for the box I built:

Sealed Sub Enclosure for 4 10" 4 ohm subwoofers (Drivers face forward centered at 6.5" from floor. Connectors also face forward located 2" in from both outer lower corners) This is the optimal enclosure that gives plenty of storage and is easily removable.

OD Sub-enclosure measurements: 43" (w) x 18" (d) x 16" (h)
ID = 2 x 20.375" (20 3/8") x 16.5" (16 1/2") x 14.5" (14/1/2")
2 - 10" subs per compartment 4 - 10" subs total (which will achieve >136dB at 950 watts RMS [mono])
2.821017795138889 cubic ft. per side... = 1.763125 [FQ] of compliance per driver

Poly-filled to "1/2 density environment"* (simply fill cabinet, press and release... when the fill comes to 1/2 full, fluff up to fill entire void) *This gives the damping factor required to stop free waves from interfering, but does not change the resonant "Q" factor for the drivers.

Material list:

3 - 2 lb bags poly-fill
2 - terminal connects
3 - yards black trunk-mat (or whatever color matches your interior)
1 - can spray glue
1 - tube clear silicone caulk

Cut list:

3 @ 16.5" (16 1/2") x 14.5" (14 1/2") x .75" (3/4")
2 @ 18" x 43" x .75" (3/4")
2 @ 14.5" (14 1/2") x 43" x .75" (3/4")

(.75" (3/4") x .75" (3/4") cleating) for sealing and buffeting the inner joints of the enclosure. The cleating makes a huge difference and creates a bullet-proof box.

8 @ 16.5"
8 @ 13"
8 @ 18.875" (18 7/8")

Okay, good luck. Please let me know how it turns out. Please ask any follow-up questions you might have.

 

Got some pics of your setup man?>

 

Hi, do you still have this diagram? Please email it to me at satch2011@gmail.com

Also, can I replace the amp under the driver seat with a new head unit and use the same connecotr or do I need to strip wires? Does that amp control all 4 front and both rear speakers PLUS the 2 subs or?

Can I remove this amp and fit a sub under the seat also?

Thanks in advance!
WB
Thanks

 

Where did you get connection for the power and remote turn-on for the amp? Should I run power straight from the battery?

I'm "simply" adding a box with a pair of JL 10's & amp to the stock setup. Something I can pull out quick if I need the extra cargo space.

Edit: This is in a 2005 LR3 HSE7. Subs going in are 2 - JL 10w3's in a sealed box, JL 300/2 pushing them.

 

I would like to get that wiring diagram if thats possible...I just bought an 06 LR3 and want to install amp and woofers...havin problems...