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Lucky 8's new Project D2 - Bigger and Better than the last one

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  #111  
Old 12-22-2014, 02:11 PM
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Yes, the cross pins fell. In typical cross pin fashion, I must've broke them doing something difficult because when the diff actually went, I as on flat, level ground and was not doing any obstacles. Talk about a terrible noise.
 
  #112  
Old 12-22-2014, 02:34 PM
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Don't you have Ashcroft thirds at the shop? I thought this build was big and bad. I mean, maybe you don't have Force 9's, but at least get a decent carrier.

I'm a D1 guy, and while I can understand why some people might prefer the softness of the DII, there's some things that I don't think a big lift can fix. But since Lucky 8 has plenty of experience with the DII and the P38 project vehicles, and I have none, maybe you can comment on them.

I've read a number of people comment that the Watts link is a limiting factor on the rear suspension. Personally, I think the Watts link may be better than a panhard rod, and what concerns me more than the link are the rear radius arms. I think it must be the radius arms in the rear that limit flex as much as they are known to do on the front of all solid-axle Rovers.

The other shortcoming that comes to mind are the axles with the open cv joints and cartridge hubs. I don't really understand the rationale behind these axles. Is there anything better about them, or were they just a step backward?

I sometimes find myself contemplating the DII or the P38 because there are so many of them in decent shape. The majority of the D1's and RRC's available are trashed. It's getting especially rare to find a clean classic nowadays. But when considering the DII or P38, the transfercase swap is not what concerns me as much as the axles and suspension. I could see resolving the radius arm issue with a 4 link kit, but it's a lot of work to put into an axle I don't see love for.
 
  #113  
Old 12-22-2014, 05:17 PM
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Those are the exact reasons I bought the d1 over a d2
 
  #114  
Old 09-19-2015, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
First you buy these. (I think its E10 just buy a lisle set for 10 bucks.) (I think its 18 MM, you should own a full set of gearwrenches anyway.)







First jack up the frame for better access to the mounts. Use the Gear wrench to loosen the nuts on the engine side of the mount. Then remove both botom nuts and use the E10 to remove the stud from the motor mount. (circled) Then fully remove the engine side nuts. Jack up the motor and slide both mounts out. Remove the studs from the new mounts and slide them in. Put the studs back in and lower the engine. Put all the nuts back on.
Hey guys, i recently purchased a 2004 Discovery II G4 with 48500 miles carfax certified and with all the service records. I just had it inspected by a reputable shop and the tech told me it looks pretty good. A few little details here and there but the one thing he showed me was the engine mounts need to be replaced as well as the transmission. I was quoted about $600 for parts and labor. Does that sound like a fair price. $250 for the mounts and about $350 for labor. Thanks guys.
 
  #115  
Old 01-26-2016, 12:37 PM
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Time to close the page on this chapter. The Project D2 was sold today to a loving home and will continue to be seen at events.


Now, what to build next?
 
  #116  
Old 01-26-2016, 03:00 PM
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LR4? or maybe a nice Freelander on 35's?
 
  #117  
Old 01-26-2016, 03:37 PM
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Im thinking L322
 
  #118  
Old 01-26-2016, 06:12 PM
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You need another lr3
 
  #119  
Old 01-26-2016, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by WNYErikDiscoII
Im thinking L322
Seems like the most logical next step considering it's one you haven't done yet.
 
  #120  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Shiftonthefly1
Seems like the most logical next step considering it's one you haven't done yet.
My thoughts exactly!

Im off to the auction!
 


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