I got a 1994 discovery that stalls,then will restart after 20 min or so..now it won't start at all..My on board diagnostic display, won't display anything..fuel pressure is good..just replaced fuel pump,fuel filter, gas tank and filler neck vent tube,spark plugs,oil,oil filter. Gets spark. Cranks but won't start. I've tried the manual eka code 1515, thinking it might be immobilized but there is no alarm light illuminated on the dash.Please Help.Thank You

 

Checked fuses..no power at pin 17 which is the starter..what controls this,before relay?..check all relays and all seemed good maybe I missed one cuz there spread all over

 

So with good fuel pressure, do spark plugs come out wet with fuel, or dry, perhaps indicating that injectors are not squirting? Injectors get +12 common on all, and ECU grounds each injector to make the squirt pulkse.

 

Will it run shortly on a squirt of starting fluid (timing not jumped)?

MAF sensor plugged in tight?

Usually no start until cooled off can be ingnition amp, but then no spark.

 

Thank u for your quick response, it's greatly appreciated. Disco has been siting in drive way for about 4 months now as I've relentlessly dug thru it with no progress. When I pulled out the origanal plugs they were soaked in gas. I removed the new ones and they were dry. I'll check again though just to make sure. That sounds like the ECU could be the culprit. MAF looks good but will double check. I wanted to ask your opion of the what kind of starter fuel to use before i attempted it.is there a certain one better or does it matter?

 

Starter fluid (ether) is pretty generic. WD 40 will work for some engines. Don't use a lot. If it does this and won't start back until cools off, could also be the fuel temp sensor on the fuel rail or fuel pressure regulator (short piece of vacuum hose on it).

The fuel temp sensor is supposed to tell the ECU to adjust fuel pulses to get bubbles out that form in hot weather (vapor lock). The fuel temp sensor for the Lucas system would range between 9100 ohms (14F) to 150 ohms (212F). So one that was open would make engine run rich and one that was shorted or grounded (skint wires in harness) would make ECU think fuel was way too hot. I would guess you could spray the thing with brake cleaner or such to cool it off when it acts up to verify. Here's some pages on all the fuel injection parts, shows their values, etc.

 

Checked plugs all had gas on them,two were soaked..sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body while trying to start it,with no luck..cleaned MAF sensor..maybe there is a relay I can't find, that isn't supplying pin 17 with power? Or a bad ecu or bcm?..my ignition key has been acting up too, wondering about the igintion switch..thank u for ur help

 

There is no BCM on a D1. So a spark plug attached to spark plug cable shows nothing when cranking? The engine is turning over, just not firing?

 

Yeah turning over just not firing..

 

Electronic ignition module associated with distributor. So heat sensitive they make relocate kits.