I'm sad to say that I don't even know where my vacuum pump is, but if you can tell me that I can shoot you a picture of that spot on my engine and that might help you figure out where to plug it in.

 

I've gotten 30 to 32 in my Mercedes before, but I'd be surprise at more than high 20's in the rover.

 

Just my 2 cents worth... I have the TF 3 inch lift from Lucky 8. I was told by Justin at lucky 8 that it is a true 3 inches (and I agree) but that some of the other kits cause problems with steering, axle and drive shafts because they are more than advertised height. I can say that my steering is harder to return to center with the TF kit than it was stock. Also, the TF Kit comes with longer shocks. Finally, I got new tires after installing the kit and found that the brake lines were too short (no guessing there... When they raised the truck to put the tires on I freaked when I saw the hub assembly literally hanging on the brake lines). I hadn't noticed before because I'd always had one tire in the ground and my sway bars have never been taken off.

Regarding the front, I still have my stock bumper (light) and the TF kit comes with MEDIUM springs only. I think the OM is fine on the medium springs but if you have a heavy bumper, or plan to add one, plus the weight of the OM diesel, then you might need to find longer HD springs elsewhere.

If memory serves, Jarek had a body lift too. But he had 37 inch tires and I wasn't clear whether the body lift made oil pan clearance possible or was just for the tires. I can take measurements with on mine if you like, but I imagine you won't know for sure until you dry fit the OM617. The lift does create clearance between the front axle, differential, etc. and the engine, but whether it is enough I don't know. It would really suck if you hit a big bump and took out your oil pan. With the 3" lift and a small amount of lift on my frame I can remove and replace my land rover oil pan from underneath, and I couldn't do that before the lift, so there is definitely more clearance under the engine.

 

I have same vacuum issue where I have to push stop button. check out http://i1328.photobucket.com/albums/...psf6652f7e.jpg and browse till you see a cylinder with one black hose to left and one aluminum to right and tell me where your black hose goes to if you have dual head vac pump. BWT the AC compressor is in the spot where definately will interfere with the stearing box. so.... raised mounts, no, change mounting position of stearing box and build extended connecting / pittman arm linkage from box to stearing stuff?... maybe? or do I tilt my OM617 and get modifued oil pan? that would certainly change mount orientation. so you guys want hurdles? there you have the first few. anyone overcome this that you are aware of? LET ME KNOW

 

CAM00235_zps8f5d2803.mp4 Video by Raeuspius | Photobucket

is vid of my donor running, me narration and me getting interrupted... The arrhythmic clack you hear is combination of my fan clutch and my A/C compressor ... Engine is perfect with exception of vacuum issue that requires me to push red STOP lever to shut off. Cheers and Thank you for your patience.

 

I couldn't blow up your pictures to see what you meant. If you are talking about the cylinder closest to the firewall, mine has the black jumper to the next cylinder on the left, and the metal one going into a fitting. To the right of that is another black hose that is stubbed off. The only vacuum hose I see close to that is one that goes down into an assembly just in front of the eye to hoise the engine. It is the black line you see to the middle right leading away from the camera. This is the best picture I could get at the moment... does this help or am I an in the wrong area?



I thought I heard Jarek say (on his video) that there was plenty of room for the oil pan with his setup.

EDIT: Re-reviewing your pictures we have slightly different setups. I have a ONE HEAD vacuum pump. Sorry.

DONOR:



HOST (If I can ever figure it out):

 

Charlie_V

The black line running from the camera is a coolant pipe for the heater core, the canister in front of that is your oil filter and outlet to turbo lubrication. The vac pump is located on passenger right face of block between steering pump and AC compressor. I talked to a MB mechanic and I he thinks that someone fitted a early vacuum pump as a temp or hack fix. I saw a pic of a two port pump which left side (white) ran to atop of the cam cover where other models have emissions recirculation or re-breather from the cam cover to the intake housing. Then finally, the right side of which you see single an black main to the break vacuum assist drum and between are for fuel shut off, central locking and banjo bolt at turbo rear. Mine must be rigged. I will post pics in the morning, side by side of the car in question and another 83 300D I picked up today. you can decide. Not to make this about MB of course but one of the hickups I have come across.

 

Charlie_V

If you watch jaraslow (jerek)

12,22,09 Snow Pines - YouTube

made in o9 you hear him say :30 he states he is in 36 " of snow with 5" of lift. whether it is springs or springs and body to frame lift combination. still the AC compressor he mentions at frame 10:43 of

Discovery 300D Turbo Conversion part 1 - YouTube

moving between the thermostat housing and power steering pump ... starting 14:58 in same vid I get jacked every time it starts up...

 

I am on youtube and for r380 i quote from Daniel Marcello

"Aldo Lara 1 year ago
you need a 1 inch adaptor plate betwen the al plate of the flywheel and the tranny, this will give you just enough space for the actual oil pump inside the oil pan to clear the axle when you cut the oilpan from the back,another cut from the side to clear the ball of the axle,then i added 2 inches of spacers in the front coils to compensate for the weight of the engine and to improve the clearance of the oilpan,not a easy swap but is worth it, if any other questions just ask no problem "


This is consistent with Jerek's email to me regarding the adapter plate specifically.

Main point to clear the axle.

 

Ah. My memory failed me. I still don't understand how the body lift would help for clearance over the axle since the engine hangs from the frame but if the need arises, a body lift would be fairly easy to start (but hard to finish if any wires, levers, or hoses are too short).