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I have no reverse lights and My truck is a standard shift is this typically just an adjustment on the switch or replacement, also I have freed up my diff lock and it is working great but I never see the diff light in the dash is it just the bulb in the dash or the switch thanks
Here's photo and wiring diagram from the RAVE, which would look good on your computer. he advantage of having your own free download is it quicker to find stuff.
Looks like left side of tranny, a connector with green/yellow and green/brown wire. You could check fuse shown (F14 inside truck), if good, then unplug the connector and bridge across it, lights should come on with ignition in position 2. This assumes you have already examined the bulbs...
Transfer lock is just light on dash, switch on top of transfer case grounds it to turn on. See attached.
Thanks for the info I do have the rave on my computer ,but I have not found the the electrical diagrams ,I am assuming that lhs would be the same as the rest of the car driver's side is the left ,thanks again .
Its called the electrical troubeshooting manual, in mine it is under file pdf/lj/etlj970x.pdf; D1 stuff is under the L J subdirectory, and D2 is under L T. It is about 591 pages of light "Brit Lit" reading. Has black and white photos of locations, the D2 sports color ones. Can be a surprise if a RHD vs LHD photo is used. The do have a color code in the first part, so you can see that a NK wire would be brown / pink, etc. And Discos pictured are obscenely clean. It's just not natural....
Those sub directories make it a mystery until you figure it out, then majic. I am still stubling my way around in there.
These versions are the actual RAVE CD images so you have an index for finding things; RAVE download
Reverse switch is on the upper left side of the gearbox, you should be able to get to it from under.
The 4WD lock indicator could be the light, wiring or switch. I've seen the switches freeze up and not work. There's a small plunger on the end that screws in to the transfer case and gets operated by the internal linkage. It can be removed from underneath also, though it's a bit of an ordeal to get to. Before removing it I'd make a test lead from a couple of spade connectors and some wire and check it with a test light or multimeter. If you do remove it, clean around it as best as you can, you don't want crud falling in to the gearbox.
__________________
Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
new water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, lower radiator hose, powersteering hoses(3), alternator and driveshaft rubber coupling.
1990 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 230k(fell on its side, left her my friend said it was still on when we took off, I was drunk. Came back, all fluids gone. Topped her off and she started right up.)
It was actually working a little but I took off everything in the centre consol ,sprayed all the working parts down with PB Blaster left it for a few days then oiled every joint and sliding part with transmission fluid over the course of a few days and everything started working a lot better after day three of putting the oil to it. I also realized that the cap or stopper that holds down the ball bearing in place for the diff shifter was missing so I had to move it even more to get the diff to engage, I solved this by putting in a piece of gas line hose about 1 and 1/4 inch just below the fat part of the shifter to hold the ball in it place in the shift rod. This made a hugh difference ,I also did not put the metal plate back on over the diff shifter box so I could have more movement ,I put a good thick piece of rubber over top and put the skrews through it . I believe it is one of those things that will have to be done yearly any way.Also the more you use it the better it will stay working .
97 DISCO Just a couple of things
