Good evening everyone,

I have been trolling this forum for 8 months utilizing loads of information you have been sharing, which has saved me tons of money and aggravation etc.

I will quickly give you the details of my disco and then jump to the horror story that i am now experiencing. I bought TWO 99 disco series 1 for $500 total with the hope of making one good one to take camping, trail riding and towing a bay boat. Both are exactly the same, down to color and emissions group. After digging in i realized i got what was paid for and was stubborn enough to continue. One had a very nice interior, and that is it. It sounded like a marching band going down the street lol. The runner had usual ticking from lifter noise and a very worn suspension, but other than that was rust free and was the winner of the two.

after swapping interiors, I went in to change the lifters and was mortified with condition of the rocker assemblies. motor was completely torn down.

ALMOST $4k later, I have a completely rebuilt 4.0L gems, OME 2" suspension, new sensors all the way around, bushings, steering gearbox ETC ETC ETC.

HERE WE GO! after 300 miles of total bliss I had elected to have a new custom exhaust done with magnaflow cats and muffler and all new piping. They apparently did not secure the 02 sensors correctly and the wiring harness was badly snagged up in the front drive shaft, breaking some wires while on the highway. Had it towed home, sorted it out and spliced everything back together, no start. Fuel pump will not turn on when key is turned. Put 12 volts to the pump and it turns on fine. Reset inertia switch, change relay, and ALL fuses, CKS no luck.

I swapped the entire wiring harness, ECU and green alarm box from other disco - with matching numbers. NO CIGAR! SO! before I have a very expensive bonfire or pay the price to have some one else figure it out, please chime in with any suggestions or help. Most recent update is I have swapped the multifunction relay and have no power coming in to the inertia switch. Takes a few seconds before motors turns over. Disco has spark. Ignition key cylinder has seen better days but I have mastered the sweet spot and have not had any issues with starting it before the "incident".

PLEASE HELP - and thank you in advance for your time. - Jon

 

You must have a copy of the Rave otherwise you'd not have made it as far as you have. I'm sure you've followed the ETM for the 99 as well otherwise you wouldn't have found the MFU is in between power and the inertia. The problem would be with the ECU not turning on the MFU to send power then to the inertia. Obviously there's a problem with the ECU not turning on the MFU's fuel pump circuit, could be a relay, could be the ECU's circuit. You also know that your not going to get a long time to check power, maybe a few seconds to the pump and then it quits. So if your checking the inertia it's better to have someone else cycle the ignition while you check. On the MFU connector pin 2 White/Green check it for 12V. Pin 1 is Blue/Purple, that is power out of MFU to ECU. If nothing in on Pin 2 check Fuse F6 20A in Satellite Fuse Box 1.

 

Thank you for the prompt reply. I will check this tomorrow and get back with results.

 

Screw it, just read my gibberish, check for power on pin 2 (white/green) of the MFU connector with ignition turned on. If nothing check fuse listed.

I just ripped up my knee today, good drugs not doing anything for the pain.......

 

Your welcome and it sounds like your having fun...... my mind is but my knee isn't.

 

Satellite box #1, fuse #3, 20amp. Rover is running and my hair has stopped falling out. Thanks again for point me in the right direction.

 

And my knee still is whacked.........

Good to hear it was a small thing and not a big thing.

 

hey jslatz, glad you got your truck running I've been through a couple of fuel pump not priming situations. I think I had a faulty inertia switch it was cracked and somebody glued it. One time I took a sharp left turn and the fuel pump died. Swapped the switch for a new one. All good now.

I read in your post that your fixed your lifters. I have a similar situation with lifter tick, and have tried all those gimmicky fix a lifter oil additive and oil flushes without any luck. I've decided to open up the intake manifold and remove the lifters possibly to clean them. Any way I was just wondering how you fixed your tick, by cleaning or replacing them. Thanks

 

MR4x4 - I put all new lifters, a new cam and new rocker assemblies. As well as having the motor machined, pistons cleaned, new main and rod bearings , valve job etc. I went with Atlantic British's "modified cam bearings" which have slight grooves in them to improve oil flow up top. When I put everything back together I had the slightest tick still... It drove me nuts. Went back in to find one of the brand new lifters was bad out of the box. Installed a new one and no issues there after. So to directly answer your question I went in and pretty much replaced anything and everything I could while I was in there. When I saw the condition of the rockers I was not ready to just replace the lifters and call it a day. This Disco was neglected. I will post pictures of everything when I get a chance tonight.

Check for wear on the lifters. They will have a round dimple on them when worn. Sometimes they collapse. Check the condition of the push rod tips. When I finally cleaned my rocker assemblies there was quite a bit of wear on the rocker arms and the shafts had major grooves on them. There is no mystery oil to correct wear like that. It may help to quiet them down a tad, but wear is wear. Lifters are common failure items on these old motors. Also, anytime I replace lifters I check for wear on the cam. My cam was really bad on a few lobes.

 

want to also add that alot of those issues are from poor oil pressure, whether is be from a worn oil pump or gunked up motor like mine. My oil pump was actually in good condition. The mating surface was well within clearance, limited abrasions and gears looked pretty good. It really looked like low quality oil changes and really long intervals were the culprit with mine. There was burnt oil all over the place so maybe the PO had just added oil that leaked out and never changed the old filter it was equipped with. Lifters dont last forever but a well maintained healthy motors should see at least 100k+ miles with out lifter noise. I notice you are in florida like me. what oil are you running? rotella T5 seems to be the most common and is what I use. I run liquimolly in other vehicles and have had excellent results.