D1 High Idle issue. (Yet Another)
#11
When you reset do you have to wait for the computer to do all it's tests again before it can pass DEQ? I'm currently waiting for this to happen so I can pass DEQ. They said it may have happened because I recently had a dead battery, could that be the case?
#12
Thanks for all this help. After doing what you said it didn't make a difference with the idle. So I have another question. If I were to disconnect the IACV after I start the engine (and the rpms are low) then rev the RPM up and it should go back down to a low rpm right? It seems like this would at least indicate that the IACV is moving or not because it should act different.
#13
So I don't think it's the idle control valve?
Could it be something with the mass air flow sensor and its riching the mixture? What would happen if I disconnect the MAF? Or someway to test it?
Other things I can test?
Or maybe this means the idle control valve is not working?
Thanks again for any help.
Last edited by land44; 01-26-2016 at 09:55 PM.
#15
In fact the "Emissions Readiness" test of my ODB2 reader says that Catalyst, O2 Sensor, and O2 Heater are incomplete. And because of these I can't pass DEQ currently. I ready somewhere else that I have to drive around at different speeds for a while (there is a checklist of what is required, but I can't find that right now.) So I guess my computer is still trying to figure out if the sensors and system is functioning properly. Wish it would hurry up.
#16
My high idle and stumbling issues were caused by a bad MAF. Unplug it while it's running and see if it changes the idle. Mine would idle like complete garbage with it plugged in, and then smooth out when I unplugged it. Installing a new MAF cleared it up completely.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
#17
My high idle and stumbling issues were caused by a bad MAF. Unplug it while it's running and see if it changes the idle. Mine would idle like complete garbage with it plugged in, and then smooth out when I unplugged it. Installing a new MAF cleared it up completely.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
Also, FWIW going on 3 months of driving and 2 months post emission pass, I still have an incomplete reading on my catalyst. I'm not sure it speaks a language my scanner can understand. Everything else shows ready. I think you just need drive time at varying speeds/RPMs to get them ready.
One thing I did note is the high idle issue starts at 140 degrees F. I wonder what other tests I can do?
#19
ECM reset didn't fix it Took it to local rover shop and cost $55. (The reset did seem to fix the SRS light)
So I'm back to square one. I have a high idle when the engine temperature goes above 140F. ECM replacement? I'm grabbing at straws. but along those lines I have a few questions.
do I want part # ERR7109 (GEMS 8) for my 96 land rover disco? Also does it make a difference if the ECM came out of a automatic if my vehicle is manual? I can get a used ECM for about $40.
btw: I also pulled my temp sensor and verified it's working. Since this high idle only happens above 140F I wanted to double check the coolant probe. In fact when I disconnect it I can see the temp shuts off on the ODB2 monitor.
So I'm back to square one. I have a high idle when the engine temperature goes above 140F. ECM replacement? I'm grabbing at straws. but along those lines I have a few questions.
do I want part # ERR7109 (GEMS 8) for my 96 land rover disco? Also does it make a difference if the ECM came out of a automatic if my vehicle is manual? I can get a used ECM for about $40.
btw: I also pulled my temp sensor and verified it's working. Since this high idle only happens above 140F I wanted to double check the coolant probe. In fact when I disconnect it I can see the temp shuts off on the ODB2 monitor.
#20
On the plenum at the throttle body there is a hole with a metal tamper cap, has that cap been removed?
On my 98 instead of doing the reset I asked for the dealer drilled that cap and they bottomed out the screw and ruined my plenum, that's when I learned not to take my old 98 to the dealer, expensive lesson
On my 98 instead of doing the reset I asked for the dealer drilled that cap and they bottomed out the screw and ruined my plenum, that's when I learned not to take my old 98 to the dealer, expensive lesson