Looks like that cap is still there to me.

But I did notice something else. My system is still in open loop mode at higher temp. It's my understanding that in open loop mode it ignores o2 sensor data and feeds it more fuel then needed?

I've attached a photo of my odb2 sensor data. I'm also curious if the some of the other readings look normal to you guys? MAF 0.1 g/s , O2S1 0.2... This is while it was at 170 degrees.

 

I am assuming the intake temp is your coolant temp? 85*

Upstream o2 should rapid fluxuate in closed loop

If it thinks its cold idle will be hi

Vacume leak idle hi

It says the air intake temp is in the 30s , when u first start the engine in the morning the iat, and coolant temps should read same at first and should match ambiant temp

 

The 1st pic shows the "Coolant" at 170F. And my guess the "Intake" temp is the sensor on the air filter box. But if thats the case I'm not sure what the "Air Temp: 35.6F" reading is for. Cause it's not 35F here. I will check the temps before I startup and see what I get.

When you say the o2 should rapid fluctuate, what numbers should I be seeing. And how much of a change between the numbers should I see?

I've checked for vacuum leaks a few times. The hardest place to check is behind the air intake manifold. So I can give that another shot.

 

Not sure the numbers on o2 but let's say .8 to 2? Either way when the engine is closed loop running,upstream o2 should fluxuate rapidly If you are watching live data

 

I just noticed 3 of your o2 say zero, is this with engine running? If so you need to check the connectors or something

 

Fuel temp sensor? I believe it could keep it in open loop. In later engines it will affect throttle position under certain conditions. Long shot but something else to consider. New ones a bit spendy though.
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Maybe that's the intake temp listed on you tool

 

Let's not forget there are two coolant sensors. The small one is for the dash gauge and large is for the ECM. If the large one fails it will cause a rich condition like a choke to warm the engine - keeps it in open loop. Fuel mileage will suck. They're cheap and Rovahfarm.com has em. They don't cause high idle when failed, that unfortunately is the IAC as it's the idle control..... I've seen it once where water intrusion had caused an ECM's circuit connections to corrode and did all kinds of weird things to the motor. If you can get ANY ECM for $40 do it, swap it, see what happens! Doesn't matter what year it's from as long as it's 96 - 99 1/2 D1, it's a good spare to have no matter what so you need to find out if it's worth being a spare. Don't forget while disconnecting/reconnecting battery before/after swap to push the hood's alarm switch down otherwise it'll set it and causes other unneeded problems.

 

Interesting and something to consider. ETM shows gauge sensor sending signal only to gauge and other only to ECM. Logically scanner readings should be same as those the ECM is using and coming from the larger sensor. Should be able to confirm assumption by disconnecting plug on sensor and view scanner reading.
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Yes, with engine running. That doesn't seem right does it? I know there is several values coming from the odb2 readings that don't make since and perhaps it's because this is a early year for adopting odb2 standards? So maybe they just didn't hook up all the sensors to show information, but i'm curious if anyone else has different number on their o2 readings? (and what year vehicle they have)

It's my understanding there is (2) o2 sensors near the exhaust headers and then (2) after the catalytic? So from my picture it's almost as if I'm only getting data from one of o2 sensors after the catalytic? Or am I wrong on thing this.