Hello, this is my first post, though given the challenges I've faced with my Disco 1 since buying it last March, I feel like I have been posting for ages. Im a licensed structural engineer and a Jeep "graduate," though I think I've met my match with this vehicle. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

It's a 1998, 50th Anny Ed. Disco I, which has had her fair share of problems. The newest of which occurred while reversing out of the driveway a couple of weeks ago. Started fine, sounded good, was warmed up, shifter into reverse and stalled. This is not entirely uncommon, though is typically associated with a cold engine. In this case, the motor was warm and the stall occurred abruptly, only a second or two after shifting into reverse and beginning my roll.

Prior to this, I installed a new fuel pump, crank position sensor, battery and multifunction relay (amongst other things including spark plugs, leads, and MAF). Using a multi-meter, I checked to confirm that I have power at the relay and fuel pump and further confirmed by disassembling an old MFR and manually closing it while the key was in position II - fuel pump worked, but no spark.

Whats really strange is when I turn the ignition from position II to III, there is a 1-2 second delay until the starter cranks.

I have traced wires and swapped relays under the passenger side kick panel to see if may have been a phantom loose connection, but no luck, same symptoms. I disassembled the EMC to inspect for damage and, aside from a corroded connector which I cleaned, the circuit boards appeared to be in good condition.

I have read other posts about the "Spider" and the possibility that the alarm system may be playing a role, and I'll go there if I need to, but that's the last place I intend to check.

Any chance this could be related to my ignition switch? I just had my CPS replaced a few months ago, could it have gone bad again? How do I test the crank position sensor without buying a new one?

Lost in FL.

 

Alarm spider not an issue, 98 doesn't have one.

Ignition switch I would think is the starter, pretty common that the leaking valve covers and what nots leak enough to effect the starter to engine block. Check your solenoid wire/connection while down there.

No spark directly points at the crank sensor. Check it's tip (did you have a shim with it?) and check connection and wires to the connector. They're in a hot locale and insulation tends to disappear.

 

One other thing about no spark, if the starter doesn't turn fast enough the crank sensor won't produce a spark. That doesn't speak to the abrupt stall in reverse but it's one reason for loss of spark besides what I've already mentioned.......

 

What about the 1-2 second delay between the moment that I turn the ignition switch to position 3 (starter) and the time during which the starter gets power?

 

Already answered that question in my first post.

 

Firstly would like to wish you a welcome to the forums

That being said, I would check battery cables for any corrosion/fowling down by the starter as well as what scouts said about checking the starter for any leaked oil or gunk buildup on the connections. The delay is a little strange but could be nothing more than a bad/dirty contact. Hope this helps ya out some

 

CPS is new, replaced about 8 months ago. Checked it again today anyway and inspected the tip, as suggested. The metal post appears to be worn/damaged on one side. Could this have anything to do with the problem? Also, no shims were present with the sensor, nor was the shield that was referenced in so many other forms and web searches.

So I connected my code reader to see if maybe that might tell me something and this time it told me there was a link error. All fuses are good. Wtf?

 

1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online org.broadleafcommerce.common.page.dto.PageDTO@21e4 57ad is a site I found dealing with cps not sure if it will help or not as honestly don't know much on them. As far as the reader giving a link error. I would double check to make sure that there is nothing in the port on the car I.E. dust, etc. Also check to make sure none of the pins are damaged/bent. Also might want to make sure that your reader is compatible with the Rover. Pas that I would try turning the key to the on position and then plug in the reader. I know mine sometimes is picky about how it's plugged in. Hope this helps out some and sorry didn't have any info on the CPS but will keep researching

 

Have never had a problem connecting the code reader in the past. I read a thread on another rover forum (discoweb) which describes identical symptoms. See thread here: https://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=82176

Unfortunately no solution was ever shared as part of that thread.

 

Check fuse F3 10A in Satellite Fuse Box 2 (under steering wheel). That's the fuse for the Data Link Connector. If you have damage to the crank position sensor I'd say there's a good starting place. I'd also check the tabs on the flywheel reluctor ring, bent and missing cause all kinds of neato problems. There's supposed to be only one gap (1 rev count), not several.

When you turn the key to pos II does the Check Engine Light come on? If not there's a good possibility the ECU is a ghost now. Check it's connectors, case exterior and open covers to look for corrosion in interior. Any perforation of the case and it's pretty conclusive that the ECU has left the building. I've seen an ECU or two self destruct and report weird off the wall crap before. The biggest problem is getting the poster to check it in a timely manner cuz they're so wrapped around the axle with other ideas.