Discovery I or II?
#1
02-19-2017, 05:00 PM
#2
02-20-2017, 06:58 AM
#3
02-20-2017, 08:57 AM
Depends on what you plan to do with it.
If you want a mall kitten, get the DII.
If you plan on off-roading it, get the DI.
They both suck in their own special ways. They are both money pits that require constant attention, especially if the previous owner let a few things go before you got it. And if you aren't the type to pay attention to the little warnings it gives you that something has gone sideways you're just a liner slip or grenaded front prop shaft away from owning a british boat anchor. I'm not directing that at you, I'm sure you are aware of what you are getting into, just my $0.02 for anyone reading the thread.
If you want a mall kitten, get the DII.
If you plan on off-roading it, get the DI.
They both suck in their own special ways. They are both money pits that require constant attention, especially if the previous owner let a few things go before you got it. And if you aren't the type to pay attention to the little warnings it gives you that something has gone sideways you're just a liner slip or grenaded front prop shaft away from owning a british boat anchor. I'm not directing that at you, I'm sure you are aware of what you are getting into, just my $0.02 for anyone reading the thread.
#4
02-20-2017, 12:07 PM
Super Moderator
SLS is an option on D2's they don't all have it. You can add CDL to an 03 by swapping out the front section of the TC and adding a D1 linkage or 04 D2 linkage. It will already have the correct SLABS unit to support CDL.
D2's do have more computers vs relays, but the real only issues with D2's are misfire faults due to bad spark plug wires (which are fun to replace due to the coil pack location), 3 Amigo ABS/TC/HDC faults due to faulty ABS sensors or shuttle valves on the ABS Valve Block, then if it's equipped with SAI (secondary air injection) you can have emission related issues, but SAI does work well when all the hardware is in good working order. Then 03-04's had the 4.6L which was forced to run hotter due to emission standards and a lot of head gasket issues, slipped sleeves, or cracked blocks have resulted from people not keeping their cooling systems in top notch form (I personally have seen more die a slow death from leaking Throttle Body Heater Plates, which I bypass on all my D2's). You can run a 180F LR OEM Grey Thermostat that helps cool things down. Also the front drive shaft has only one zerk fitting from the factory and if not maintained it can EXPLODE taking out your TC and transmission. Not to mention exhaust.
D1 wise the ABS is hit or miss and sensitive if the sensors move just a bit. On my D1 I have it disabled as when it did try to work I'd go from brakes to no brakes.. The swivel ***** can be a PITA if they need adjustments, or if they aren't maintained or full of grease. Drive shaft has zerk fittings, but a lot of people never lube them and it can do the same thing as a D2. Engine wise the GEMS system isn't a picky as a Bosch, but it can have issues if the ECU under the hood gets wet and the connections corrode.
Like mentioned above both have their ups/downs. Neither one are a bad choice and between those two I'd just go for whichever one is in the best shape.
All my Land Rover's are off road setup. I've taken my D2 places Jeeps would fear to tread and they don't look anything like a mall crawler. A D1/D2 so stands out in the days of cookie cutter Jeeps. We look refined, dignified, and unique. That can't be said for the JK/JKU's out on the roads today.
D2's do have more computers vs relays, but the real only issues with D2's are misfire faults due to bad spark plug wires (which are fun to replace due to the coil pack location), 3 Amigo ABS/TC/HDC faults due to faulty ABS sensors or shuttle valves on the ABS Valve Block, then if it's equipped with SAI (secondary air injection) you can have emission related issues, but SAI does work well when all the hardware is in good working order. Then 03-04's had the 4.6L which was forced to run hotter due to emission standards and a lot of head gasket issues, slipped sleeves, or cracked blocks have resulted from people not keeping their cooling systems in top notch form (I personally have seen more die a slow death from leaking Throttle Body Heater Plates, which I bypass on all my D2's). You can run a 180F LR OEM Grey Thermostat that helps cool things down. Also the front drive shaft has only one zerk fitting from the factory and if not maintained it can EXPLODE taking out your TC and transmission. Not to mention exhaust.
D1 wise the ABS is hit or miss and sensitive if the sensors move just a bit. On my D1 I have it disabled as when it did try to work I'd go from brakes to no brakes.. The swivel ***** can be a PITA if they need adjustments, or if they aren't maintained or full of grease. Drive shaft has zerk fittings, but a lot of people never lube them and it can do the same thing as a D2. Engine wise the GEMS system isn't a picky as a Bosch, but it can have issues if the ECU under the hood gets wet and the connections corrode.
Like mentioned above both have their ups/downs. Neither one are a bad choice and between those two I'd just go for whichever one is in the best shape.
All my Land Rover's are off road setup. I've taken my D2 places Jeeps would fear to tread and they don't look anything like a mall crawler. A D1/D2 so stands out in the days of cookie cutter Jeeps. We look refined, dignified, and unique. That can't be said for the JK/JKU's out on the roads today.
#5
02-20-2017, 01:23 PM
#6
02-20-2017, 04:59 PM
Super Moderator
CDL = Center Diff Lock
An LR3 is like a space ship vs a D1/D2. Something as simple as a faulty brake switch can cause limp home mode, ABS/TC/HDC, Terrain Mode, no cruise control, and lowered EAS onto the bumpstops.
I own an 06 LR3 HSE and while I was very up to the task of looking it over very very very good I still got bit in the butt two weeks after owning it. The Can Bus system on an LR3/RRS is very sensitive and if one of the components in the loop has an issue it takes down the other ones leaving you will a christmas tree of dash lights and one lovely ride on the bumpstops!! I had serious issues, and even ruined the brake pads/rotors when it went nuts and completely decided to engage HDC at 50MPH (I was going to replace the brakes anyways so thank goodness it happened before I did!!!). All of my diagnostics pointed me towards a brake light switch, and sure enough once I could get the faults cleared (standard OBDII Scanner wouldn't do it). I've been fine ever since. I also had a potential fire danger when the main fuel line completely disconnected going down the road!!! Thank god it was cold and rainy or I'd have had an LR3 dumping fuel onto a red hot cat in 93F weather and burning itself to the ground!!! Last small thing that died within a month of owning it was the alternator dying, but that was not a big deal and the replacement wasn't expensive at all.
If you are looking at an LR3 and aren't at all familiar with them I HIGHLY recommend taking it to a LR Dealer to be fully inspected from head to toe. Common issues are TCM connections corroding, leaky transmission electrical connection, EAS issues, worn lower control arm bushings, worn brakes, possible water leaks if the windshield cowl is warped just to name a few.
I love my 06 LR3 as it's a very technically advanced vehicle with great power, room, and the ride is sublime. However I DO NOT recommend an LR3 to anyone that isn't familiar with them or you'll end up with a money pit.
A good mechanically maintained LR3 should be in the 10-15K range depending on the area and mileage. If it's in the same price range as D1/D2 I'd demand service records, full detailed inspection, and a carfax on flood/accident damage.
An LR3 is like a space ship vs a D1/D2. Something as simple as a faulty brake switch can cause limp home mode, ABS/TC/HDC, Terrain Mode, no cruise control, and lowered EAS onto the bumpstops.
I own an 06 LR3 HSE and while I was very up to the task of looking it over very very very good I still got bit in the butt two weeks after owning it. The Can Bus system on an LR3/RRS is very sensitive and if one of the components in the loop has an issue it takes down the other ones leaving you will a christmas tree of dash lights and one lovely ride on the bumpstops!! I had serious issues, and even ruined the brake pads/rotors when it went nuts and completely decided to engage HDC at 50MPH (I was going to replace the brakes anyways so thank goodness it happened before I did!!!). All of my diagnostics pointed me towards a brake light switch, and sure enough once I could get the faults cleared (standard OBDII Scanner wouldn't do it). I've been fine ever since. I also had a potential fire danger when the main fuel line completely disconnected going down the road!!! Thank god it was cold and rainy or I'd have had an LR3 dumping fuel onto a red hot cat in 93F weather and burning itself to the ground!!! Last small thing that died within a month of owning it was the alternator dying, but that was not a big deal and the replacement wasn't expensive at all.
If you are looking at an LR3 and aren't at all familiar with them I HIGHLY recommend taking it to a LR Dealer to be fully inspected from head to toe. Common issues are TCM connections corroding, leaky transmission electrical connection, EAS issues, worn lower control arm bushings, worn brakes, possible water leaks if the windshield cowl is warped just to name a few.
I love my 06 LR3 as it's a very technically advanced vehicle with great power, room, and the ride is sublime. However I DO NOT recommend an LR3 to anyone that isn't familiar with them or you'll end up with a money pit.
A good mechanically maintained LR3 should be in the 10-15K range depending on the area and mileage. If it's in the same price range as D1/D2 I'd demand service records, full detailed inspection, and a carfax on flood/accident damage.