I've done some searches and looked in RAVE with no definitive answer.

I purchased a '95 Disco 200tdi about 3 weeks ago. I've been going through a fixing all the little things, but over-all in fantastic shape.
One of the issues is the Tach not working. The PO said it worked while he had it, but it hasn't worked since i got it off the shipping truck. I've seen stranger things. The odd thing is, it has been stuck at about 2k, and the alternator tests great. The tach lead off the alt shows about a 7v signal, so I assume that is working. It seems that most people that have Tach issues are really alternator issues, but mine is stuck.
So last night i pulled the cluster (i wanted the black-out the "unleaded fuel only" message anyway) and checked all the leads. They looked fine.
So i pulled the "glass" off and noticed that the Speedo is spring-loaded or weighted, so when you move it by hand, it gradually and smoothly drops itself back to Zero. The Tach, just stays, wherever you put it on the gauge and doesn't return to zero. Is this how it is supposed to be?
I cleaned all of the ribbon connections, put the Tach on Zero (less annoying than 2k) and buttoned it all back up. Still no Tach.
If it is, in fact, the cluster. I know i can get a whole new cluster on eBay for $50 or less. But my mileage will be way off. I don't care much (178k) but if i ever sell it, it sounds a little shady when you go to buy a vehicle and the owner is explaining all of these mileage discrepancies.
So next question... can you spin the odometer to INCREASE the mileage? Sounds crazy right? but that's what i'd want to do.

As i mentioned on another thread, this site is invaluable. thanks.

 

If you just have wires going to cluster, and no mechanical speedo cable, then you can't easily. My 97 has this board inside the cluster, it decodes the pulses from the VSS for speedo/odometer, and the pulses from the alternator for tach. So you might be able to swap board and keep original speedo.

 

Is the signal wire that plugs into the back of the cluster the Single Black Spade connection? or is it one of the ribbon plugs and/or the blue multiplug? I need to check that it is receiving the 7-8V signal from the alt. there COULD be a break in the signal wire going through the wire-wall. Wishful thinking, easy fix.

This is good advise. Thank you. I may just purchase a cluster and swap the the boards.

Any info on the tach needle returning to zero like the speedo? i hate to assume it is the board, and it is actually something mechanical in the needle assembly.

 

I duuno - but pix of for sale clusters would shop if needle returns to zero un-powered.

As for wiring, that starts at alternator, has junctions at C163 (where it makes a tap to head over to the diesel EGR module), C217, C215, and arrives at cluster on C207, pin 5, a white and slate (grey) wire. RAVE has circuit diagram, plus black & white photos of connector locations. D2 users have color pictures, very swanky.

There is a fuse that should be checked - F14 under dash.

 

Color? well good for them!
I thought about the ebay photos. All show zero, but i'm sure they were all disconnected with the engine off... so not sure that proves anything.

That is some excellent information. Just need to find time to bust out the multimeter and systematically eliminate variables.

Thanks again.

 

Just an update on this. (its easy to solve a problem and forget to post the solution on forums!)
I bought a $39.00 cluster on ebay. Hooked it up and it worked perfectly. Tach and all. The "glass" was scratched and had two bulbs out, but i cleaned up and transplanted the best parts to the "new" cluster and VERY happy. The bulbs are brighter overall and everything works.
Also. The tachometer IS suposed to return to zero if you move the needle by hand, just like the speedo. On my broken tach, the needle felt harder to move by hand, and would stay put, wherever you leave it.
I could of spent a lot more time and patience transplanting the odometer and everything over to the new cluster, but i would have broken gauge needles, or plastic bits etc, and been really pissed at myself. It looks and works great, better not to mess with it!
Thanks for the help. Next stop... Aux/Trailer fuse amp draw....