Gentlemen I have a few questions regarding Starter R&R.

Does anyone know the size of the bolt attaching the heat shield to the frame mount?

Also I currently have the windshield washer reservoir out of the vehicle which makes me wonder if I can avoid pulling the Front Prop Shaft apart and access from above. Opinions?
If so I could start here after heat shield removal.

8.

9.

10.

NOTE: To assist removal, use 230 mm
extension bar positioned between engine
mounting bracket and exhaust manifold.
11.

12. Remove starter motor.


I could possibly avoid the following:

2.

3.

5.

NOTE: Raise 1 front road wheel and rotate
propeller shaft to gain access to all
fixings.
6.

7.

See Starter Motor Heat Shield - 4.0 V8


Anyone else ever tried it this way?

 

I did not touch the shaft during my starter removal. Simple removed the heat shield, the wire harness, and the 2 retaining bolts. The most difficult part was lining up the torx socket with the top retaining bolt. You definitely NEED a LONG extension, and I found the easiest way was to feed the extension in while beneath the vehicle (no need to jack up the vehicle) and then from the top you can then see the socket and just guide it into the bolt, then get back underneath and attach your socket wrench to the extension and loosen the bolt. Took me about 20 minutes the first time to get the starter out (15 of which were spent on that top bolt.)

Don't hold me to it, but I believe the heat shield bolts are 13mm (But it's been a few months, and beers, so I'm a bit cloudy on that one...)


I should note that the starters on the DI & DII have the same mount pattern, but the DII starter puts out more torque. So if you can get the same price on both, the DII is the preferred replacement starter. My local source sells em used for $125 no matter how new they are. My experience has been that a used genuine LR starter is more robust than a new aftermarket one. Let me know if you'd like to go that route. They do ship.

 

I picked up a used DI starter from a local import recycler for the grand price of $35.00 plus tax. No core charge, no shipping. Mine has become intermittent, so I'll probably be swapping them out tomorrow.

Thanks for your input on the removal.

 

Make sure to check the condition of your battery ground cable as well. OFTEN our intermitent starting issues turn out to be the result of a bad ground. At the very least, remove the one 12mm bolt on the frame, sand away the crud to expose shiny metal, and reattach. Drive around for a week to see if the starting issues disappeaar, and keep the "new" starter on the shelf.


DISREGARD. I JUST READ YOUR STARTING ISSUES THREAD AND SEE THAT YOU'VE ALREADY REPLACED THE GROUND CABLE...

 

Yes, I bought a brand new 48 inch cable, picked a better routing, drilled a new hole in the frame, put a dremel deburring bit in my power drill and removed the top layer of crud and protective coating from the area, then attached the lead securely with a large self drilling bolt into a pilot hole, so the ground cable is solid.

I did not like the way LR did the factory cable. Their Manufacturing Engineering leaves a lot to be desired. I spent 4 years in the navy as an Aviation Electrican and 20 years in the Defense Industry doing Manufacturing Engineering, Reliability Engineering and Quality Assurance Management. The Brits left a lot to be desired in planning and assembling these beasts.

Next I will be rebundling and relocating fuse and relay panels inside the vehicle.

Thanks for your input.

 

Yes, no need to remove the propshaft. Just work the starter out once free.
For the top bolt an extension that reaches to the front of the diff works the best.

I've found just running the starter ground to the same place the battery ground attaches to the chassis works very well, and comes as close as you can get to a direct ground to the battery.

As for aftermarket starters, I really like the BritishStaters.com Denso gear reduction starter. $225 shipped and a lifetime warranty.

 

Update: I got the heat sheild off, but it was quite a struggle actually. It is an 11mm on mine. It was nasty and corroded, and as far as I could determine may have never ever been off before. I sprayed it heavily with PB Blaster, both front and rear side of the fastener. Each partial revolution was an effort, kept spraying, it finally came out.
Inside was really nasty, like it may have made a few water crossing and never got cleaned good.

I ended up removing the front right tire, with stands properly positioned this time. When I had replaced the exhaust manifolds, I cut the inner wheel well in such a manner than I could bend the sheet metal out of the way for better access. So I opened that area a little more so I was looking right at the starter, mounting harware, terminal lugs , everything readily accessable right at eye level sitting on a low chair in the wheel well area. I cannot stand to work on anything that I cannot see well and get to as well as possible. All it took was a drill bit and sheet metal sheers.

The problem I now have is the allen head cap screws that were used to mount the damn starter. I cannot get them to budge at all. I have sprayed repeatedly with PB Blaster to no avail. I even called The Rover Guy (Will Tillery) and asked him what he uses. He told me to make sure I had a #8 allen, so I went and bought a new one, but all I could find was a plan L-shaped allen wrench, so I got a piece of black iron pipe to fit over it as an extension (pull bar). There is no room to rotate it!!!

I can't seem to break the torque on the mounting bolts. I did manage to relocate the existing ground from the original position on that frame gusset to a newly ground place on the frame, like I did my new battery ground.

It cranks steadily, but I would like to go ahead and mount the other starter.

Anyone got any advice for removing the allen cap screws? Do they make one to fit a socket? It is not a torx tip, it is an allen.

 

Yep. You can pick up a #8 allen socket at Sears, or your favourite tool supplier. I'd strongly suggest picking up a 3/8th inch drive socket, as opposed to the more readily available 1/4" drive. The extra heft will be worth it if your bolt is seized up as badly as it seems... Also, if you don't already have it, then you NEED to pick up a LONG extension as well. Basically the length of the starter plus about 4 inches. I have no clue what the mm size is since I have a set of 4 and used my #3 (wish I could be more accurate on the length.) But you have to extend that far to get to a point where you can actually crank the ratchet. The L-Allens would be useless on the top bolt, but I'm a bit surprised you couldn't get movement on the bottom bolt with your pipe extension. LR has a habit of locktite'n everything, even if it doesn't need to be.

 

Tom,
Very nice looking starter. I like the fine machined appearance and lifetime warranty.

Suede,

I just went to the old timey hardware store around the corner. Hopefully I can find a 1/2 inch drive #8, I have a nice half inch drive set my oldest son left here when he moved away, if not at least a 3/8. I have large braker bars and rachets for both.

I just wish these damn things had better access to the major replacement items. I like my mods to the fender wells. A few holes and a few cuts with the snips and you have marvelous access.

I have discovered the advantage of longer and larger breaker bars and good extensions with quality sockets. The knuckles don't get busted up.

Thanks a whole lot guys for your help.

 

The problem with going to 1/2" drive is you might not have enough room to get the socket portion to line up straight due to the starter body itself. Usually the metal of the larger 1/2" drive doesn't leave you enough clearance. Just a thought...