Hi,

In the Rave manual, it shows a picture of two engine coolant temperature sensors, but in the description, it just talks about one (my guess it is talking about the one with the single bullet connector. It says it should measure 28k ohms at -30 degrees C, 300 ohms at 85 degrees C, and 90 ohms at 130 degrees C.

What is the other sensor for (the one with a two prong connector)?

 

If I'm thinking right one is for the dummy gauge and the other is for the ECM

 

I think you are right - I did some searching after posting and someone said the two-connector one goes to the ECU. The funny thing is that I got very different resistance readings on each of them. the bullet connector sensor read about 14k ohms and the two-prong sensor read about 1150 ohms... If I unplug the two prong connector, the engine barely starts. I still want to take a reading on the two prong sensor when the engine is warm.

 

AMR1425 is for the Gauge and if you need one, StandardMotorProducts has TS559 ( Rockauto $14.40 ) works spot on.

ETC8496 is for the ECU, and again SMP has TX107 ( Rockauto $16.31 ).

 

Ok, so I just went out and measured both of mine on a cold engine. The one going to EMU was 2420 ohms and the one going to the gauge was 19k ohms.


I will re-measure on a warm engine too, but would really appreciate it if someone might be so kind as to also measure theirs on cold and warm engine and post back their numbers.


Thanks much!

 

If you have a bad gauge sensor the gauge doesn't work, if you have a bad ECU sensor the CEL comes on, the truck runs rough and burns gas like 4 miles per gallon because the ECU never goes into closed loop. The ECU thinks the engine is cold and needs to be warmed up with more fuel and usually the idle will increase to where it would be like a first start in the morning.

 

So just took the measurements on a warm engine and the EMU temp sensor measured 339 ohms and the gauge sensor measured 100k ohms. I think the previous owner must have taken out the check engine light when they removed the antilock brakes mechanism. So I don't think the check engine light works any longer. Still would love to know if my readings on my EMU Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor are similar to a known good one. My gauge works fine so I'm not as concerned with that one.

 

Does your check engine light come on when you turn the key to the run position? If so then you have a working bulb. What problem are you trying to fix?

 

No it doesn't. I think the previous owner took the bulb out when they removed the antilock brakes unit. I've been noticing the engine stumble (like it is either getting too much fuel or not enough) ever since I replaced the head gaskets. I think it must be one of the sensors because it ran very well before replacing the head gaskets.

 

I would check to make sure all the connectors are seated corectly and check for vacuums leaks. If the manifold is not sealed properly it will cause a vacuumed leak and symptoms that you are having. Also check you have the fireing order correct.


If you have a code reader see if you are getting any, and post what you are getting.