Hey guys, I am usually asking how to fix my disco, but this time I wanted to contribute back to the community that has helped me many times in the past...

I've had my 1996 Discovery SE for over a year now, and although rusty, it has been a very good vehicle for me. I have done a few things to it. I replaced the radiator, water pump, and fan clutch to resolve an overheating problem. I have taken apart the starter switch because I had to jiggle the key forever to get the key to turn in the cylinder. I have resoldered the connections on the little window ECU board to get the rear windows to work. I replaced a U-joint which was so bad it was kicking the 4WD into neutral because of vibrations. I replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator to fix a problem where the lights would go back and forth between dim and bright and the tachometer would just quit. But the engine has always started and run perfectly.

The other day after driving for about 15 minutes, it decided it did not want to start. It would try to start - engine would turn over and it would fire a little bit and then the RPMs would eventually dwindle down and the engine would die. I had tried taking the gas cap off and put it back on, tried locking the doors and unlocking them again. I let it sit for quite a while and after a couple more attempts it started up again. I drove it around and to a gas station - it was low on gas so I filled it up and it started up fine at the gas station. I drove it 5 more minutes and parked and came back out again 10 minutes later expecting it to start again and it did the same thing again where it would start, idle back down and die. Pretty soon it would not even attempt to start. It would just turn over.

I had to have it towed home and I began looking at forum threads of people with similar problems. I saw a lot of posts saying to check the fuel temp sensor, the crankshaft position sensor, the fuel pump, and the fuel filter.













I checked the voltage to the fuel pump with the key on and there was no voltage. So I did some more searching and found some posts that said they replaced the Multifunction Relay module and they were good to go. So I went out and found mine and noticed there was the same colored wire running from the MFR to the Fuel Pump (white with a purple stripe).





I checked connectivity and it was fine. I then read that you can pull the cover off the MFR and manually try the relays. I did that and still no starting. Then I took a closer look at my MFR and noticed that one of the connections had some corrosion on it.









I took some sandpaper and cleaned off the connections on the circuit board and made a jumper out of some magnet wire I had laying around, then I resoldedered a bunch of the connections especially ones that looked questionable.





I put the MFR back together and put it back in the disco and she started right up! I was super happy that I didn't immediately take it to a shop and pay them countless hours of investigation. I was also super happy I didn't have to buy a new MFR at $125. And I was even happier that I didn't have to wait several days for the part to be shipped to know if that was even going to fix my problem.

I put the cover back with some new screws as the old ones were so rusty I had to take them out with a vise grip after chipping all of the rust away from around them...





I hope this helps someone in the future!

Thanks - Paul

 

Awesome photos, thanks. I'll check my MFR tomorrow just for the heck of it. I don't have any problems but i'm curious after all this. Never even heard of an MFR. What aftermarket radiator did you use?

 

I'm afraid I spoke too soon... I figured that since the car started right up immediately after my work on the MultiFunction Relay, I was good to go. It actually started a couple of times since I did the work on the MFR. But now, I just went out to go for a spin and it started up, revved nicely and then proceeded to die out when the RPMs came back down. Makes no difference if I push on the gas pedal. So NOT FIXED! Dang it!

stillruns, It was an aluminum radiator that someone on the forum was getting rid of. Don't know the brand. Tomorrow I'll see if there is a brand name on it.

 

It has been very hot and humid out here. Don't know if that is coming into play or not either.

 

Looking at the condition of your pump top does not leave me with a warm fuzzy feeling. That white/purple wire also runs to the tip over switch on the firewall.

Some random thoughts here. If you need a MFU go with Paul Grant.

You need to look at your pump, it's a bear but I don't like what I see. If you have clear stiff hose running from the pump to the top fittings it's original. Search here for Airtex fuel pumps and you'll get the numbers for just the pump motor, like $30 bucks for it and get a new sock while your at it.

Lube those hose fittings on the pump, wait a day at least before trying to remove. Use flare wrenches on the fittings that way you'll get a better grip on em. I got away with reusing the sealing ring, you might get lucky.

Check your electrical connections to the pump, there are two. Ones at the pump and another to the right/left near the frame rail as your looking from behind.

When you power up the pump it's only going to get power for about 3 seconds then shut off...... no power. You have to have somebody cycle the key while your checking the connection with a meter.

 

Oh, and prime and paint the pump cover top and bottom, it'll keep the new screws from rotting just a little longer.

 

so you're thinking it is the fuel pump - even though, when it does start and continue to run occaisionally I can drive it for as long as I want? Yeah, I was really hoping to not have to touch that pump. The fittings on it crumble just like the rest of the stuff in that area. I don't think even fitting wrenches will work on those. I think if I pull it apart I will need to drop the tank and replace lines. I am not thinking replacing high pressure lines on this thing will be any fun at all. I think I would just junk it rather than doing that.

 

I was thinking I would bypass the inertia fuel cutoff switch tomorrow and remove the fuel temp sensor and see if it falls in range for resistance in boiling water. I was trying to find out where that wiring harness from the pump goes to - wasn't able to locate it - maybe I'll try finding it again tomorrow too.

 

Not really but whatever the problem is allows the same thing so why not put eyeballs on what you can like with the MFU surprise eh. You never know until you know. The fuel line is not under that high of pressure where you couldn't modify the fittings with hose barbs. It's been done. One is a return line, not much pressure there. I've managed to keep it cheap for eight years, I know that's what your aim is so I mentioned Paul as a great source if you need something like the MFU. Paul only keeps/sells rock solid parts. I bought a used water pump from him once and it lasted six years of daily driving......

Anyways, continue on.

 

ok, so I ran some wire from the fuel pump connector up to the front seat and connected them to my multimeter and watched as I turned the key to position 2 (accessory/run) and I got 12 volts for about 4-5 seconds. So I think the problem is with my fuel pump. which is good news and bad news. Good news at least I know what is most likely my problem. Bad news in the fact that those hose connectors are just going to crumble when I try to get them off. Will probably do like what you said ihscouts, use a couple barb connectors on the rubber hose part. I don't think I want to try to reuse any of the existing fuel pump in as bad of condition it is in. Will keep all posted as I get the pump replaced. Thanks!