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GM Radiator Swap, 'Merica!

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Old 11-19-2014, 10:32 PM
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Default GM Radiator Swap, 'Merica!

Well I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and go this route. I knew there had to be someone else that was also very underwhelmed with the **** box radiators on the Land Rovers. Thanks sedat from pirate and the gent that pointed me that way. I don't mind a little fab work (cutting/welding support & brackets). I'm going with a full size blazer/burban or possibly S-10 blazer radiator. These are dime a dozen at pick n pull salvage yards. Aluminum with 2-4 cores (depending on which I find). I've built a few K-5's and have NEVER had an issue with these rads. I'm more than likely going to have to run a external engine oil cooler as most only come with built in tranny coolers. I'll post pics of the process and results. Rig is down for engine overhaul & head gaskets. Might as well take advantage of the down time and come up with a better cooling get solution for me. Now let's here all the die hard rover nay sayers inputs... Lmao.
 
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:45 AM
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Definitly post pics and part # / what stuff fits from donor, seen guys do this but usualy ends up a hack job
With the rad held in by unistrap or some other crap

Could just drop in a Chevy v6 for an s10 think they make adapter for the trans, has more hp
 
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:27 AM
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i just put one of these in my classic :

New Radiator Land Rover Range 95 Discovery 99 98 97 96 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 1995 | eBay

i was going to match it to a standard radiator, but buy the time i bought a transmission and oil cooler and adapted everything it was going to cost must more than $250.00

dropped right in no problems
 
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
i just put one of these in my classic :

New Radiator Land Rover Range 95 Discovery 99 98 97 96 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 1995 | eBay

i was going to match it to a standard radiator, but buy the time i bought a transmission and oil cooler and adapted everything it was going to cost must more than $250.00

dropped right in no problems

X2. I went through the same thoughts with my first Rovers. Knowing I had to modify or change it to a simpler design. I think I might have even posted a thread on it. Later realizing that my truck had a problem and I hadn't found it yet. Once I figured it all out I realized it was all wasted efforts. The cooling system does actually work well.

But I think projects like this are great. If he gets it to work then we all benefit from his knowledge. Dont forget the pics!
 
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:08 AM
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Yeah the year 2000's V6 chevy s10 blazers and trucks have a good radiator set up with trans and oil cooler built in. The dimensions are almost the same too. They are usually 2 core rads with big cooling tubes. Some aftermarket ones are 4 core but I think the 2 core ones will suffice as the stock disco rad is 2 core also. I'll have to drill and grommet the lower rad support and fab up a top clamp support for the radiator. Gonna use the existing expansion tank as a over flow bottle but I'm gonna remove the rubber seal and springs from the cap so it doesn't over pressurize. Looked at a few scrap yards online in the San Diego area and S10 Blazers are everywhere. One even quoted me $40 for a good used rad with electric fan attached! I will definitely post pics of the process. Gotta take care of my head gaskets & engine overhaul first (different thread)...
 
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:35 AM
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I think the reason most don't bother to swap rads is cause these are all over the world in harsh environments, operating properly the cooling system is fine, I believe the issue becomes that with an aluminum engine and brass / copper rad it causes the rad to calcify faster and worse then alum eng. With alum. Rad.
I am sure a metilurgist could explain about ions and dissimilar metals in a cooling system


Flush out the heater core good while apart, both directions, iirc it sits sideways and crap builds up
 
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Old 11-21-2014, 08:59 AM
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very possible in the plumbing businesses when using dissimilar metals, copper, brass, iron, ect. dielectric unions are/should be used to keep the metals from reacting with each other.
 
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Old 11-21-2014, 09:17 AM
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And that's why I'm changing to a all aluminum radiator or even aluminum with plastic tanks. Have used all aluminum LS1's with aluminum rads with no issues. This copper brass shyt is obviously not the best. Everyone complains about the LR rads.
 
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:31 AM
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that's why I went alum/plastic plus $200 shipped new direct fit makes it no brainer, would be nice to see someone find a alternative on the cheap that's not a hack job


I have had lots of old cars with cast iron engines and copper rads no issues, guessing alum and brass bad combo, maybe part reason for hg failures? eating the gaskets?
 

Last edited by TOM R; 11-21-2014 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:50 AM
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One problem w the orginal copper is the tubes are super small. So even a small amount of gunk glogs them right up.

There is a guy on Craigslist here who has an all aluminum GM style radiator that he had in his D1. He converted to an electric fan as well. So I'm guessing what you are planning on doing works. Looking forward to your outcome.
 


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