Good stereo component replacements (if you're interested)
#1
Good stereo component replacements (if you're interested)
I grew tired of the buzzing in my rear door from blown subs. I also got sick of the CD changer not working, and the tape deck purely SUCKS for the ipod converter thingamajig. So, I tore it all out. Front 2 door speakers, 2 rear column speakers, 2 subs, radio, and stock amplifier.
Amazon rocks. Here's the list of crapola I bought:
BOSS CW150 CHAOS WIRED 200 Watts 2-Channel Power Amplifier:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
That powers these in the rear door:
Pyramid W64 6.5-Inch 200 Watt MidBass Poly Woofer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Front door speakers:
Kicker 07DS400 4-Inch 100mm Coax Speakers (Pair)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Rear speakers:
Pyle PL42BL 4-Inch 180 Watt Two-Way Speakers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Those 4 are powered by a Sony Explode 52X4 head unit my brother gave me. I use the AUX-in jack for my iPod.
Shortfalls:
The kickers are a SNUGGGGG fit in the front doors. Magnets are big. You may want to remove the foam block behind the stock speaker to help - but they DO fit. No cutting/drilling/or even cussing required.
The Pyles DO NOT FIT in the front doors - they are for the rear. I would have got all matching speakers, but I was just playing around trying different brands. They fit with no issue in the rear.
The subs are another TIGHT squeeze. I had to bang open the sides of the opening in the rear door to get the magnets through - but they DO fit. You may cuss once or twice. You'll be SO happy you did though.
If you're bypassing the stock amps (I did cause I fried them trying to push the new speakers with them...) you'll have to run wires. JOY!!! I ran wires from the new head unit to the outgoing lines of the stock amp. EASY AS PIE. I put the Boss amp in the glove box. THere's normally crap in there anyway... this makes running RCA/REMOTE lines from the head unit easy. Power comes right through the firewall where the ECU lines are. And the ground is right under the kick panel. I ran new speaker wire (hefty) from the amp to the back, as I didn't feel like splicing more crap (there's one channel out from the amp, to the rear amp that splits into 2 channels... weird).
Results? LOUD. Clear. ME=HAPPY.
I need to add a crossover to the subs. I THOUGHT a SUB-PREOUT on a dang headunit would have a low pass filter already, but not so. Its low/mid. I still get voice and crap though the subs - but it's not terrible. I will still add crossover.
I only took a couple pics, but I can get more if you have any Q's.
Oh - I removed and re-used the stock grills for the front doors. Don't want any riff-raff F'ING up my stuff.
IN the pic of the subs, you can see the pyles that are in the rear columns.
Amazon rocks. Here's the list of crapola I bought:
BOSS CW150 CHAOS WIRED 200 Watts 2-Channel Power Amplifier:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
That powers these in the rear door:
Pyramid W64 6.5-Inch 200 Watt MidBass Poly Woofer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Front door speakers:
Kicker 07DS400 4-Inch 100mm Coax Speakers (Pair)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Rear speakers:
Pyle PL42BL 4-Inch 180 Watt Two-Way Speakers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Those 4 are powered by a Sony Explode 52X4 head unit my brother gave me. I use the AUX-in jack for my iPod.
Shortfalls:
The kickers are a SNUGGGGG fit in the front doors. Magnets are big. You may want to remove the foam block behind the stock speaker to help - but they DO fit. No cutting/drilling/or even cussing required.
The Pyles DO NOT FIT in the front doors - they are for the rear. I would have got all matching speakers, but I was just playing around trying different brands. They fit with no issue in the rear.
The subs are another TIGHT squeeze. I had to bang open the sides of the opening in the rear door to get the magnets through - but they DO fit. You may cuss once or twice. You'll be SO happy you did though.
If you're bypassing the stock amps (I did cause I fried them trying to push the new speakers with them...) you'll have to run wires. JOY!!! I ran wires from the new head unit to the outgoing lines of the stock amp. EASY AS PIE. I put the Boss amp in the glove box. THere's normally crap in there anyway... this makes running RCA/REMOTE lines from the head unit easy. Power comes right through the firewall where the ECU lines are. And the ground is right under the kick panel. I ran new speaker wire (hefty) from the amp to the back, as I didn't feel like splicing more crap (there's one channel out from the amp, to the rear amp that splits into 2 channels... weird).
Results? LOUD. Clear. ME=HAPPY.
I need to add a crossover to the subs. I THOUGHT a SUB-PREOUT on a dang headunit would have a low pass filter already, but not so. Its low/mid. I still get voice and crap though the subs - but it's not terrible. I will still add crossover.
I only took a couple pics, but I can get more if you have any Q's.
Oh - I removed and re-used the stock grills for the front doors. Don't want any riff-raff F'ING up my stuff.
IN the pic of the subs, you can see the pyles that are in the rear columns.
#2
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infinitypack (06-14-2019)
#3
#4
When you mounted the subs to the plastic frame did you use the holes where the tabs went into in the original subs or did you use the circular holes meant for screws? I recently bought some subs and the coil cover on the back won't let me put them in... I might try taking the cover off and see if they fit
#5
Pretty sure the subs came as a pair.. I'll check and let you know. As far as the wires go, I ran them along the floor under the carpet.. When i got to the rear, I ran them behind the plastic and through the rubber boot in the rear door where the other wires are ran from the factory.
#6
When you mounted the subs to the plastic frame did you use the holes where the tabs went into in the original subs or did you use the circular holes meant for screws? I recently bought some subs and the coil cover on the back won't let me put them in... I might try taking the cover off and see if they fit
For the subs, I turned them at an angle and made new holes with self tapping screws. The angle also helped by making the wire connections on the speaker easier to get through the door when re-installing the box.
#7
#8
I used the metra harness for the power.. Wired the speakers manually fromvthe radio to the old amp harness.
#10