Hi All, been over a year but I'm back at it. Last year I blew the head gasket and wasn't sure if I should replace the head gasket or the whole engine. Well this weekend I took the heads off to inspect. Sure enough it was the rear passenger side that was leaking between the water port.

I've read that the head bolt holes in the block can crack and cause the new head gasket to leak (I think it mainly read about the 4.0 engine though). There is no rust in these holes but there is oil. I don't want to spend 4-6 hundred fixing this only to leak again in a few months so what exactly do I need to look for?

here is a pic of the holes/area



The cylinders look pretty good. Compression test before tear down wasn't awesome but I think it was in spec.

No idea how many miles are on the engine. It's a replacement I put in year ago.

So advice? If I go ahead and get the heads done and do the head gaskets what kind of quarks should I look out for? Tips and advice plz!

Thanks, Paul

 

First, clean up the rocker assembly. Check oil ports all throughout it.

As far as bolt holes they need to be clean and dry. I chase em with a tap with a dab of grease first and blow out the debris if any. Paint thinner works as a decent degreaser/de-oiler.

Go with Felpro (NAPA is who I use) head gaskets, I've had zero problems with them and they're the best looking for the job. I've used them all, Elring, Victor Reinz and some off brand from Rovahfarm in his cheapo kit. Order your bolts through Rovahfarm as well as the intake gasket and seals and do not go with the cheap stuff, spend a little and you'll not regret it. If the valve cover gaskets are leaking replace them too.

Bolt holes cracking? New one on me and I've done allot of head gasket jobs. I witnessed Savannah Buzz strip out threads on heads for intakes (over-torqued) but not blocks.

Do not use a metal scraper for removing old head gasket on the block, use plastic only and again paint thinner will soak in a lift most of it but you gotta be patient.


I'm sure I'm forgetting a thing or two cuz I'm tired........ ask away if you need even more. It's not rocket science, just common sense.

By the way...... it looks like somebody already replaced the gaskets.....those are not original......... You would not see that red sealant on original, those are the cheapo "composites", they suck *****. Have the machine shop check for warp, I'll bet your within limits and that somebody did a crappy head gasket job and didn't torque anywhere close to spec. Take a pick of the head bolts if you would and stick em up here.

 

I'll try and pull up the article/blog tomorrow.


I noticed that also, they fit like crap.

I'll post the bolt pics tomorrow.

Also if I do get the heads shaved do I need to adjust the valve train some how?

Thanks a bunch, Great info!

 

I didn't like the plastic scraper method. I used a non-metallic and also a brass zip wheel brush to clean all the crap off. Used it on my heads, block, top of pistons, valves and intake manifold. Harbor freight has a good cheap selection of these consumable materials. You'll be surprised how much smoother the engine runs with the pistons and valves cleaned of all that carbon. I used a zip wheel stone to port/clean up the slag/burs on my heads and intake manifold. I used the brass wheels to polish my heads/intake then finished them with the cloth tip. No dyno sheets or any of that shyt but my engine runs awesome and gives me a warm and fuzzy knowing I cleaned them up real good.

 

No adjustments to the valve-train are needed unless you want to. I would check valve lash as a rule anytime the valve covers are off though.

Yeah, I cleaned the carbon from my poppers too, made a huge difference. I've wanted to port match but we'll see how much time I have this summer. I also used a wheel to shine things up on the deck but I don't say much about it cuz I have no idea what skillz folks lack.

 

green-lantern
your remark about the cracked head bolt holes is correct many have found that the reason for there slip liner is a crack in the head bolt whole.

But I have to say I believe most were cause the owners or PO not cleaning out the head bolt whole of water and dirt.

clean everything good have the head decked and throw on a good set of head gasket

 

Here is the info I was talking about

http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2...-rover-v8.html

Here is a pic of what he's talking about. I don't have dried coolant in my bolt holes so I appear to be OK.

 

Hey ihscouts- Have you ever had any of the other gaskets fail or give you problems? I am curious as I have used the V Reinz a few times with no problems.
Any body else have problems with V Reinz?

Thanks

 

Has anybody seen this video from Atlantic British? They claim that their bolts are different than the ones that came stock and the gasket is much better. It appears I have the same gasket as they are showing. Should I get their stuff or is the felpro better? Also should I buy the newer head bolts?


Here is my gasket, if you look in the video it looks the same.

 

in the video He is referring to the original bolts and steel head gaskets that LR used years go.