Handle just broke off, can I use one from a 99 d2?

 

Vise Grips. Then you always have a useful tool in the truck, too.

 

Got the same problem, Tom, and have some cheap vice grips on it now, but that sucker is really hard to pull. I've lubed the heck out of the latch, but it is still hard to pull. Don't know if it is the cable or the latch; any advice out there?

 

I have half a handle left I had lubed it well also, I can get a d2 it is a lever type but mounts with 2 bolts and under hood looks different

I can use a self tap for the second bolt so that's a non issue for me just unsure underhood

 

Guys, I had a similar problem where half the handle was broken off and almost impossible to pull to open..... Do yourselves a favor an get a new cable. D2 cable is different...... Takes a little doing to reattach at the hood latch but well worth it. After replacing it takes almost no effort to pull open..... AB has this one non OEM for $16 Cable Bonnet Release 1994-1995 (MXC6324 Same Fit As Part # MXC6324 ) - Land Rover cables from Atlantic British and original for double the price. Rovah Farm has them from $15 - $20 depending on serial number. These cables get gummed up from all of the heat in the engine bay. Also take the time to grease/lube the latch while you are replacing the cable.

 

Good advice there - 9 times out of 10 on any car it's corrosion between the inner and outer cables. Very rarely will it be the latch itself.

 

All done

D2 cable on d1

Get a d2 cable with mount spacers

Remove d1 cable and latch

Remove plastic end at latch end of cable d1

Instal d2 cable, you need to mount the new inside handle using 2 long self tappers think 1/4" diameter, use the d2 spacers plus a thick nut on each to space it off the kick panel

Cut latch end off d2 cable, remove 13.5" of cable sheathing, and not remove 6" of cable

Press the d1 plastic end onto the d2 sheathing now simply reassemble the latch

This is very straight forward and now it opens with 1 finger

I do not see where lack of lube in the latch has anything to do with this it is a simple matter of leverage

D2 able has a lever, d1 is straight pull to overcome the hard latch spring

 

Tom,

Glad you were able to get it fixed. I only mentioned lubricating the latch since you were going to be replacing the cable and all kinds of dirt and crap can get in there and could bind the pivot on the latch. Just suggesting some PM thats all.

 

The release on my '96 hood gets tough. Surprisingly it isn't the cable itself but the spring/catch mechanism. Its gets sticky and makes the cable very hard to pull. The catch wouldn't fully return after closing the hood and at highway speeds the hood would pop up about 2". Never went full Black Sheep on me but was scary nonetheless. I lube the mechanism and work it back and forth every 3 months or so along with my cargo door handle.