I just did a test run again. drove around the neighborhood till warmed up. Then, sure enough, it couldn't accelerate. Drives great at low speed but as soon as I step on it hard- nothing but popping, gasping. I pulled over and opened the fuel cap . No change. So that's out.
Doesn't seem to be a fuel filter issue because it only happens when warm and also, it does it in neutral as well as under a load. No hill climbing needed to make it happen.

I don't see any black smoke and I don't smell gas so I think it's starving for fuel rather than getting too much fuel.
This is crazy! it runs great until fully warmed up.

So where is this crank sensor to test?
And how would the coolant temp sensor cause this issue? There are no symptoms of overheating by the way.

I'll do some googling for a crank sensor location and maybe i can try that test.

Thanks and Keep the info coming please. I gotta get this fixed soon.

 

Okay! I decided to drive to Autozone and get the thing diagnosed. The rig was cold so I was able to get up to normal drive speed on the highway, but by the time I got to autozone (7 miles) I could barely go 40 mph. The guy tested for codes and it showed 'random misfire' and the Cam Position Sensor code came up. That was all that showed so i suppose that's a pretty good bet that a new sensor will fix me up. Autozone doesn't carry one and I see them on the internet everywhere from $105 - $300 plus!
I was taking every back road I could to get back home because my top speed was around 40 mph when I left autozone but quickly dropped to around 25mph. The engine is cold again now but I just started it and it runs like sh++ even at low RPM. So the problem definitely got worse after limping to the parts store and back.
So, should I order a new cam sensor and put it on? Looks like an octopus would have a hard time getting to it to replace it and minimum $105 for the new sensor doesn't thrill me but what else can I do.

 

Came sensor is on the front of the engine around the water pump check plug and wiring, the crank sensor is drivers side of engine on the side at the back, that wireing should be heat shielded

If you need a sensor there are several guys on here that are rover dismantlers

Do you have the exact code numbers?

 

Yeah, I checked the CAM sensor connection and wiggled the connector and that didn't do anything.
I don't imagine messing with the CRANK sensor is the way to go since there was no code popping up for that.

I didn't get the exact code numbers but I did grill the guy to be sure nothing else was showing.

I do hate to spend over 100 bucks on a part that may or may not fix this issue. A cheap used one would be nice since I'm ready to sell the rig. Any out there??

 

I don't think the crank sensor throws as code if shorting due to heat

Go in the tech section there is a link to download rave manual , it will give step by step to diagnose sensor

Can be daunting if you are not the mechanical type

 

Have you checked your plug wires?

 

Plug wires? really? Do you think the symptoms I described and a code read out indicating a bad Cam sensor add up to bad wires?

 

It's an old truck, plan on replacing everything.
I'm joking, but kinda not really. The newest D1 is 15 years old. Stuff wears and things need replacement. Plugs and wires wouldn't be a bad idea.

 

I downloaded the RAVE manual but my laptop couldn't open it. I would like to try to test the cam sensor before i spend the bucks for a new one.(I now see that used ones are 65-120 bucks and new range from 250 -370 bucks!!)

Any way to see the test protocol without downloading the Rave?

 

here is a direct access download to the RAVE in .pdf form
https://www.cubby.com/pl/LR3+worksho...0Discovery%20I

workshop manual is.... wmlj970e
the electrical manual is.... etlj97x