I adjusted my 98's kick down and throttle cables according to the manual to a 1.1” (28mm) "A" dimension from the front of the cable bracket to the end of the kick down outer cable end, and then adjusted the throttle cable’s “knurled nut” to get a .040 gap from the end of the kick down outer cable to the nipple on the inner cable. This partially opened the throttle butterfly and the engine “cold idled” at 3000 RPM so I re-adjusted the throttle cable knurled **** to let the butterfly linkage just hit the stop and then adjusted the kick down cable back to get a slight gap from the outer cable end to the nipple on the inner cable which made the “A” dimension .920”, and idle was back to normal.

I don't see any way to adjust the throttle butterfly closed position other than a threaded “grub screw?”, the smooth end of which is sticking up slightly under the butterfly linkage tang, and I see no way to adjust the linkage independently of the throttle cable. I wonder if the manual's dimensions are for another year than my 98 or if my truck has a different cable bracket.

 

I know it is an old thread.
Phil, did you ever get it figured out? Adjusted kickdown per the book but idled at over 3,000. Idles good but the kickdown cable crimp thingy is right up against its threaded tube and is droopy.

 

I had to look way back in my notes, and apparently after I posted

" I re-adjusted the throttle cable knurled **** to let the butterfly linkage just hit the stop and then adjusted the kick down cable back to get a slight gap from the outer cable end to the nipple on the inner cable which made the “A” dimension .920”, and idle was back to normal."

I didn't do anything further. Idle has been OK since then for some 2500 miles.

 

Wow, 2500 miles in 2+ years. I think your putting too many on it, it's not gonna last another 30 years at this rate.

 

Well, 2607 to be exact. Not my daily driver but my going to the boat house ride and trailer puller when I need to move things. The other drivers get better gas mileage. I still like her, though, and aside from the more than occasional P1313 and P1314 climbing the hill from the boat house it runs fine and I can't detect any misfires myself.

Now if I could just get it to accept gas at something more than a dribble-it-in pace it would be great. The local U-Pull-It has a 97 so I'll go check to see if it still has the fuel pump assembly to get rid of the in-line pump the PO added by the fuel filter; maybe that will help the painfully slow fill

 

Good to hear from you Phil. Doesn't seem like it's been that long ago really, how time flies. I remember the fill up problem and the external fuel pump.....

 

Yeah, getting it to idle down is the easy part. Like you said Phil, the throttle cable is adjusted to right at the stop. At one point the kickdown was set so that, at rest, the crimp on the cable was out 1/2" from the tube and when you let off the gas at road speed it felt like a parachute opened up behind ya.

Phil, as far as your fueling up goes, I had the same problem on my '05 Ranger. On that contraption the vapors pushed out of the tank by the rising fuel are run through the charcoal canister. I dropped that tank at least 4 times. Problem was that the charcoal in one section of the EVAP canister was a solid chunk of moldy charcoal. Cracked it open and cleaned it out.
Here is the link to my post on the Ranger forum Ford Ranger Forum - Forums for Ford Ranger enthusiasts! - View Single Post - How To: Clean Clogged Charcoal Canister

 

Yeah, how time flies. I had forgotten (or maybe repressed) how much "fun" I have had working on the Disco until I looked back through my notes, which is the only way I can keep track of what I've done to way too many vehicles to remember. My time working to time driving ratio is pretty low on this one, but I still like it and the 4WD system is way better than the Jeeps. I just wish the rear view was better for backing a trailer; I can lift the rear gate on the Jeeps but can't open the Disco's rear door to see better.

Thanks for that link and the suggestion. I too had thought charcoal canister might be plugged and with the vacuum line from the gas tank disconnected at the charcoal canister I was able to put gas in at about 25 seconds per gallon but it was still pretty slow. Reconnecting the vacuum line did not make much difference. I've also tried injector cleaner down the vent tubes in the filler pipe and running string trimmer line down them too; the inboard one went in 27 inches and the outboard one went about 14 inches before hitting some kind of stop. Neither made a difference in the slow fill so I am hoping a different (working?) pump assembly might help.

Edit:
I found this on you tube,

You Tube

, where Jessie took his 98's filler neck out and disassembled the trickle valve and cleaned it, but later says it didn't fix his slow fill problem. There are three parts to his video that do not come up automatically so you have to look around to find the whole saga. I am wondering now if a 96 or earlier filler neck could be installed in a 98 to make it fill easier or if a guy could just eliminate the trickle valve and let the hoses attached to it breathe. I also wonder if it is normally open or normally closed, assuming it's end is pushed by the unleaded gas flap when you put the nozzle in. Anyone know how this is supposed to work?