Let me know what you think
#1
05-15-2011, 05:01 PM
Let me know what you think
I can redo the video if you guys think it needs it.
YouTube - Transfer Case Land Rover Discovery
Back and to the right is normal driving, that is full time 4x4 hi with the transfer case unlocked.
Forward and to the right is full time 4x4 low range, this would be used for low speed driving in snow, sand, wet grass or pulling the boat out of the water.
Back and to the left is full time 4x4 hi locked, this means that both prop shafts are locked together and equal amounts of power will be sent to each prop shaft.
This would be used for driving at higher speeds in snow, sand, mud, wet grass etc. and MUST only be used while traction is low and wheel slippage is likely to happen.
Forward and to the left is full time 4x4 lo range locked, meaning the transfer case is in lo range and both prop shafts are locked together.
This is for maximum power to both axles.
This would be used off road in deep snow, sand, mud, pulling a boat up a gravel or wet paved boat ramp where maximum traction and power are needed.
Pulling stumps would be another reason to use lo-locked.
A few tips for using transfer case, put the transmission in neutral when changing gears on the transfer case.
DO NOT drive on dry roads with the transfer case locked into either hi or lo range and severe damage to the driveline may result.
Keep in mind that your transfer case shifter may be seized or hard to move from lack of use.
YouTube - Transfer Case Land Rover Discovery
Back and to the right is normal driving, that is full time 4x4 hi with the transfer case unlocked.
Forward and to the right is full time 4x4 low range, this would be used for low speed driving in snow, sand, wet grass or pulling the boat out of the water.
Back and to the left is full time 4x4 hi locked, this means that both prop shafts are locked together and equal amounts of power will be sent to each prop shaft.
This would be used for driving at higher speeds in snow, sand, mud, wet grass etc. and MUST only be used while traction is low and wheel slippage is likely to happen.
Forward and to the left is full time 4x4 lo range locked, meaning the transfer case is in lo range and both prop shafts are locked together.
This is for maximum power to both axles.
This would be used off road in deep snow, sand, mud, pulling a boat up a gravel or wet paved boat ramp where maximum traction and power are needed.
Pulling stumps would be another reason to use lo-locked.
A few tips for using transfer case, put the transmission in neutral when changing gears on the transfer case.
DO NOT drive on dry roads with the transfer case locked into either hi or lo range and severe damage to the driveline may result.
Keep in mind that your transfer case shifter may be seized or hard to move from lack of use.
Last edited by Spike555; 05-15-2011 at 05:20 PM.
#2
05-15-2011, 05:15 PM
202,000 miles spike! man she's getting a little long in the tooth!. Video is good. Maybe just write something about how not everyones diff may not move as freely as yours does. otherwise, i really hope it helps people with easy questions
Last edited by turf63; 05-15-2011 at 05:19 PM. Reason: i cant type
#3
05-15-2011, 05:21 PM
#4
05-15-2011, 06:22 PM
TReK
#5
05-15-2011, 06:42 PM
#7
05-15-2011, 09:54 PM
Winching
Video makes sense, I know I was confused by that shifter the first time I drove my Disco.
I would say as far as snow goes, low range is only useful for very deep, very heavy snow or slush: stuff that actually grabs your tire and wants to slow it down. Light fluffy snow, shallow snow, or any condition where ice may be present would make low range very undesirable - too much torque can cause unnecessary wheelspin. I also recommend against diff-lock on icy, hilly roads (the kind that is 100% snow coverage packed solid from tire tracks), even if you think you need the traction. Slow down and drive in high-open, diff lock will just make you spin out faster. Ask how I know.
Most trails I ride I choose low range or high range depending on conditions (steepness, muddiness, and expected speed) and then lock and unlocked as needed. Actually I seldom come out of locked mode while off-road because most trails around here are pretty loose.
Good info overall, just contributing my $.02.
I would say as far as snow goes, low range is only useful for very deep, very heavy snow or slush: stuff that actually grabs your tire and wants to slow it down. Light fluffy snow, shallow snow, or any condition where ice may be present would make low range very undesirable - too much torque can cause unnecessary wheelspin. I also recommend against diff-lock on icy, hilly roads (the kind that is 100% snow coverage packed solid from tire tracks), even if you think you need the traction. Slow down and drive in high-open, diff lock will just make you spin out faster. Ask how I know.
Most trails I ride I choose low range or high range depending on conditions (steepness, muddiness, and expected speed) and then lock and unlocked as needed. Actually I seldom come out of locked mode while off-road because most trails around here are pretty loose.
Good info overall, just contributing my $.02.
Last edited by Mountain Goat; 05-15-2011 at 09:58 PM.
