Hi Folks, This is for a 97 DISCO I

Rear windows were working intermittently (both work fine or nothing). Isolation switch worked when windows did. Now rear windows do not function from console or rear door switches.

Fuses checked and also swapped to no effect.

Checked Isolation switch and its leads: works correctly. It also shares the same grounding point as front window switches that work.

I have power to front window switches with key full on; no power to rear window switches on console. Power to front Window switches are on separate lead from Window Lift ECU.

Power "in" wire (white/pink, two to each console rear window switch) is a lot heavier gauge then front window switch power leads.

Haynes S&R (89-98) wire diagram (for 1995 on) shows power comes from a Electric window ECU via single wire then splice to 4 wires (2 to each rear console switch. All are white/pink.

Rovers North shows a Control unit window lift PN# AMR1282.
Roverland calls it a Window Lift ECU same LR PN# an is used on 94-99 Disco I and has a picture of it.



Haynes does not show a location or reference removal/replacement.

RAVE (pdf download) does not mention the part at all.

I am hoping the problem is just a bad hot connection or short between the ECU and the Splice as all rear switch positions do not have power.



QUESTION: Has anyone seen the on vehicle location of the pictured Window Lift ECU in their travels and can save me some search time?

QUESTION: If Window ECU is found bad (@ $140.) could old style relays ($13) be used to bypass rear window ECU function?

QUESTION: Is there a separate Rover/Disco Electrical manual somewhere?

QUESTION: Anyone have any trouble shooting tips on this or know of anything "quirky" about or attached into the rear window system?

Thanks for your time.

 

I have a '96 DI, and the Rear Window ECU is behind the glove box.

I pulled the board and re-flowed the solder that had cracked and separated - and power to the windows restored.

If you search this forum - maybe even in the sticky above, I think the solder re-flow instructions are there - or just replace it as you were planning.

Here is a good thread for location etc...:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ht=rear+window


Chris

 

1. Yes, it is located behind the glove box and should be positioned vertically and have two plugs in it.
2. Yes, it can be bypassed. Atlantic British sells a bypass kit and you can see the instructions with pictures on their website under "specifications" or something, not sure about using those relays though.
2b. You could buy a used Window Lift ECU from Will Tillery (roverguy.com) or Paul Grant, but they might also need to be re-soldered.
3. There is an electrical troubleshooting manual and its a part of the RAVE, but I believe you have to download the large file version to obtain it, should say something like large file 590mb or something.
4. Tips: when you get the lift ecu out look it over very closely and if in doubt, re-solder the joint anyways. I'm about to take mine out again and just re-solder all of the joints because it didn't work the first time. Simple job though, hardest part for me was getting one of the plugs out!

 

Wow!!! Great info. Will not be able to get at this for a few days. I will pull the Window Lift ECU and see if there is any power at the output White/Pink wire and continuity to the switches. If no power and the wire circut is good I am just going to make a splice repair as referenced above.

Thanks everyone. Will let you know how it goes.

 

if you get stuck I can fax you the AB directions &/OR email you a crude diagram I made when I did my bypass repair. I can send it over on Monday if need be, good luck, PM me if you want

 

I took option #2 and it works great. All you're doing is borrowing 12v from another source. Have a look and you'll probably doubt a need for the kit (I had everything laying around on my bench) but the diagrams/pictures were invaluable. Have a look:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AMR1282RK.cfm

 

Thanks BC!

I re-flowed solder, and a year later am starting to have issues again. I will be attempting the bypass - thanks for the information!!

I also need to find a drivers window lift assembly...or buy a welder...as the gear popped off the two, what appeared to be, tack welds.

 

Problem Solved!!!

I got to the Window Lift ECU and checked the White/pink for continuity and resistance Both fine so no short. Checked for Power: None. I decided to go directly to the By-pass repair as that ECU Solder flow repair seemed to be a bit touchy (I'm not good with solder and hands are shaky nowadays) and hit and miss as the problem may resurface. I was going to splice into the sunroof hot lead from the ECU before I got the thread with this repair:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/AMR1282RK.cfm

Since this repair was already laid out and had great instructions/illustrations I just repaired it as shown above with my own splice parts.

Works great. And you know when Wife is Happy: Everybody is Happy.

My sincere thanks to everyone who contributed to this repair.

 

Glad to hear you fixed it. I will add the following for anyone else dealing with this.

The circuit board can be removed from the enclosure WITHOUT having to disconnect the connectors. That is what I did after reading it on here.

Then you merely reflow all the solder joints on the printed circuit board. Reinst5all the board, test, if it all works, put it back together.

I did mine almost four years ago and it still works great. There is at least one solder joint that is usually bad and this is common to the DI's. No need to buy another ECU. If you go to the dealer, they will charge a fortune and take your old ecu in exchange and provide you another recycled one since they do not manufacture them anymore.

Or a good bypass is also effective.

 

Hi, I recently purchased a very well taken care of 2007 Land Rover LR3 SE. Today however, i noticed neither of my back passenger windows will go up or down with neither their own independent switch, nor the master switch on the driver's door. I've checked fuses and all are fine. There is no noise of any kind or any indication the windows are trying to move. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.