This is the one I bookmarked from Tom Rowe (antichrist);
P0331 Continuous knock detected, bank B - Cylinder knock correction at maximum value. If one or more cylinders has reached its maximum knock correction value and stays there for a certain time i.e. continuous knock, then a continuous
knock fault is present.

 

Thank you the info and links. I'm going ahead with replacing the O2 sensors as well.

 

Question on O2 replacement. I went through Rave last night to take a look at procedures and instructions indicate very a different torque value (8nm) for the RH front (passenger side). Seems odd being that they are identical so just want to confirm if I have the correct procedure.

From Section 17 - Heated Oxygen Sensors 4.0 V8
14. Position HO2S with new sealing washer on exhaust pipe. Tighten to 20 Nm using special tool LRT-12-047 (not RH front sensor).
15. Reconnect multiplug to engine harness and secure to bracket.
16. RH front sensor only: Place coil bracket in position and fit nuts. Tighten to 8 Nm.

Thanks again.

 

Both are honestly not all that tight, not sure why the one is hand tight and the other tighter but must have to do with not over-tightening because they will tighten up once heated?

 

Can you explain this a little more? "Starter turns, but engine doesn't turn over". Are you saying that the starter drive spins but doesn't push out to engage the ring gear, or that the starter "clicks" and engages but stops and doesn't have enough grunt to spin the engine? Or that it turns the engine over but won't start because fuel pump not engaging?

If starter not engaging properly, it could be bad grounding or cable/connections, or, like I just had on my starter, a worn starter solenoid. In the back of the solenoid there are two contactors and when the plunger is pulled back (magnetically when you turn the key to start) a copper disc slams into contacts in the plastic portion of the solenoid where the connections are. It closes the circuit and engages the starter motor. But after many starts, the normal electrical arcing that occurs wears the contacts down. So if it takes a couple 'trys' to start it, it could be that the disc can't find a good are to contact and only gets a 'poor' connection and the starter doesn't get all the juice it needs. Whereas on a 'classic' GM and Toyota starter, you can change just the rear plastic contact portion of the solenoid for a couple bucks (and for the older Toys, you can actually buy copper "L-shaped" contactors for literally less than a buck!), the L/R Bosch unit is all one unit. You can buy replacement solenoids relatively inexpensive on Ebay. The other potential issues include weak brushes or problems with starter coils.

Changing the starter is not an easy job like on most cars/trucks if you haven't done it before. The starter is right by the knock sensor. Given your vehicle's rig, given it's miles, and the necessary work needed, now might be a good time to remove the starter to make it easier to remove the knock sensor, and either replace or R/R the starter and make sure the grounds and connections are good (even replace any corroded cables). This is one of those things that is an investment in the future (not break down), because the starter is not very field-replaceable.

My rig has about the same mileage as yours and changing the O2 sensors seemed to give it noticeable performance gains.

Good luck

 

Mark,

I probably should have been more clear and may have used the incorrect term here to describe....I probably should have just said it would not start. The starter is engaging and 100% of the time when the engine is hot and I hold the key in position 2 for a few seconds, the car will always start fine but it never happens when cold.

 

Spent a 30 mins yesterday to see if I could easily remove the O2 sensors without the tool, the 17mm is not available as a loaner that I could find...sprayed with penetrating solution and it came right out, much easier than I thought. Now the harness...that's another issue, I spent more time trying to get to it and I don't have large hands...that was not fun.

Now, if and when I install the new sensors, can I just leave the harness loose and not have to re-insert back on the clip to the engine???? I will try but just thinking ahead that I might not have the patience to clip it back on.

 

The problem with not installing on the clip, is they have a tendency to vibrate and fall on the exhaust pipe and get fried. Just make sure there is no way the wiring can touch anything that might melt, or rub on engine causing a short or anything.

 

The connector at the back of the engine was the real bear for me. I feel your pain..

 

If you remove the coil pack it's much easier to access the connectors, unless of course you like fondling connectors for hours (meh, some might....).