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Rich mixture and misfiring 1999 Discovery I

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  #21  
Old 12-17-2014, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by LandrJM
When you turn the key on do you hear clicking like a relay switching back & forth? Under the pass side dashboard there is a set of relays. You have to remove the black cardboark cover. They are just left of the AC blower. The second relay from the back on my D1 was bad & truck would not start. Same as you turned over got fuel but no spark. Hope this helps
I do hear lots of clicking. Don't know if I hear all the right clicking :-) Thanks for the clue, I'll go investigate...

Don't know if this is normal in Land Rovers or a symptom of my problem, but when I put the key in, it takes a large fraction of a second before turning to START will engage the starter motor. Once that time delay is over, and coincidentally, the fuel low light goes out, it turns over reliably. I have attributed it to a boot-up sequence.
 
  #22  
Old 12-21-2014, 04:22 PM
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Question Where did the sparks go?

All through the prior sections of this thread I firmly believed spark and gas were not the issue. Now that I've checked everything else, or so it seems, I went back to basics to reverify spark. Guess what? None. What? Where? Why?

A neighbor came up when I had just finished verifying that power gets to the coil bank and asked, "Have you checked the crank position sensor?" Well, no... Away to the Rave book and find the Crank Position Sensor, crawl under the truck and tug on the harness just to make sure the connector is seated, and the whole sensor moved! Someone either installed it without a bolt or didn't tighten said bolt enough to stay in. The sensor was only there by the grace of friction.

After a trip to the hardware store to purchase a proper-length 1/4" cap bolt, sensor is now firmly in place. Still no spark.

How does one test the crank position sensor? I checked impedance when it was out, about 1200 ohms. No idea if that's good or bad, but it wasn't open circuit so I figured at least it stood a chance of working?

Also, any other suggested checks? The prior owner had pulled a coil pack from a junk yard but not installed it. Sadly, he did not take it with the wire harness on so I can't just plug it in and move all the wires and try it, I'd have to remove the current pack entirely and transfer the harness. Not interested in that unless I really HAVE to.

Clues, suggestions?

I'm half tempted to plug the old ECU in and see if it fires up again even without good sensor readings. It's never run with this ECU...

Thanks for any and all help!
 
  #23  
Old 12-22-2014, 12:49 PM
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Sounds like the Security Mod. is holding you out. The security in the D1 isn't very good. There are reports of people just swapping the ECU without having to put it in security learn mode and everything working fine. Other times not so. The only sync is between the ECM and the Lucas 10AS security module.
 
  #24  
Old 12-22-2014, 12:51 PM
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I have a Post call ECU trouble if you want to check it out.
 
  #25  
Old 12-23-2014, 01:49 PM
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Where do I find the security module? Searching the Rave manuals and not finding it...
 
  #26  
Old 12-23-2014, 02:18 PM
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Section 86 in RAVE..."Electrical". Starts on page 805 of my .pd copy
 
  #27  
Old 12-24-2014, 04:21 PM
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In an effort to confirm the security lock-out is what is interfering with sparks, I put the old ECU back in. Fired right up. Ran even worse than before, but it ran. Then, after three of four starts, NO SPARK!!!!!!!!!

Tearing my hair out....
 
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