Please elaborate: wouldn't even start.

Hate to say it but you may have bigger issues and the Seafoam merely coincidental, not causal. I wouldn't rule anything out though at this point.

When I run Seafoam in any engine, I hold the idle at 1500 to 2000 RPMs and get it flowing until the engine starts to stumble and run rough. Sometimes it will even stall out but that's okay. When you've drained 1/3 to 1/2 a can, or when the engine stalls, shut it down and let it sit for a minimum of 10 minutes, preferably 30. When you start it up it should run like crap and smoke like hell; give it throttle. Burn the gunk out. Takes 5 to 10 minutes of revving the engine up and down if the engine hasn't been cleaned recently. Did you do all this?

Also, I would not use the brake booster line for an induction clean on these trucks, I don't think it even remotely feeds all cylinders evenly, more like 1 or 2 cylinders will get all the Seafoam. There's a vacuum line that feeds into the throttle body, I pull that one off and flip it upside down. It's the one in the center of this pic. I know this doesn't help now, but for future reference or for anyone reading this thread, this is preferable over the brake booster.

 

Sorry, our posts crossed. That does sound like a MAF issue to me. What did you use to clean it? You could try again with MAF sensor cleaner. I always dry mine out with a hair dryer before putting it back on. If there is any residue left, the vehicle could run poorly or not at all.

 

After reading this I was inspired to do SWMBO's Kia minivan (210,000); not a lot of smoke. After the 20 minute sitting, I cranked it up and took it for a drive, it blew out so much of a cloud that the truck behind me switched on his head lights. LMAO...

 

If nothing else, Seafoam is worth the money for the smoke plume it can make - and the looks you get from innocent bystanders...

 

The can does warn to ensure that the chosen input distributes equally to all cylinders. I had been hesitant to use it as I have read where others have had multiple problems from it. But I continued to have P1316 code.

I bought the newer version of Seafoam that is a spray can with a little tube that you put on the intake. Looking at the picture above, it clamps on at the top of the metal body where the air intake hose goes. Spray is already atomized and easier to control amount ingested.

Mine barely smoked. Also spray can calls for 5 minute dwell compared to longer for liquid. I did not want to ingest the liquid into the engine. Spray I was ok with.

Mine runs fine, code cleared. I still have not done IACV. Did do TB and MAF.

Have any of you guys tried a different Heat Range? Champion list RC11YC4 for the 95, RC12MC4 for the 97.
Heat range is 11 on the 95 and 12 on the 97

New Champion Plugs. Yes Stefan, the 95 does call for a different plug than the 97. I did not know either.

Heat range

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for Champion, the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For other manufacturers (NGK, Denso, Bosch), the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage

 

Sorry for the late reply. Anyways I did clean the MAF yesterday after it had started(with sensor cleaner). Made no difference, definitely being flooded though with gas, which sounds sensor related to me

When I did the seafoam treatment it did as everyone described, ran rough while it was running through and sorta smoothed out, but then all of sudden just didn't want to run. Again pulling the MAF made it run consistently if not well.

The truck has been running like sh*t for the last couple months, huge loss in power, especially under load like on hills. So I am thinking the MAF has been going and its just coincidence that it completely failed during this.

 

I would want to have a live data reader hooked up and monitor instead of "shotgunning", You could end replacing good parts if not looking at live data.

 

....well, i did the seafoam treatment this past weekend and no doubt it smoked like crazy, made me grin from ear to ear and i swear truck is running better. as per sava i put it in the vacuum line right after the oil separator. i wasn't even careful about how it sucked up the seafoam, didn't wait a minute and didn't keep it just above the surface. truck almost stalled maybe but can ran out first. i turned engine off and started it maybe 20 minutes later (josh said 30, can said 5). put a can in the gas too. didn't do oil cuz i just changed it.

i think me tick is gone too but it'll probably rear tomorrow.

if the tick is gone...why would that be? tonight i love seafoam.

 

but Danny, I have the '96.

and here's where I put the seafoam...as per sava. i wanna do the MAF and throttle too. i'm feeling dangerous.

we're all crossing threads tonight....

 

OK, but don't slurp a whole can in, you only need like 5 ounces. You can also pinch the vac hose to make it go slower. Don't want it all in one cylinder.