Security problem!
#1
#2
Is that the same LED that should be in the dash, and showing status of alarm?
From the RAVE shop manual:
Theft Alarm LED
Slow Flash: Immobilised or immobilised and armed
Rapid Flash: Volumetrically armed
Intermittent Rapid Flash: Perimetrically armed
No Flash for 10 Seconds: Mislock
Continuous: Driver’s door open (or ignition on)
and immobilised
NOTE: The Theft Alarm LED may also be used to
indicate other conditions.
You may be able to clear it by locking and unlocking driver door several times.
Alos:
Central Locking is controlled by the Theft Alarm Unit
(Z163) and may be locked by using the driver’s door
key, sill button(s) or handset. The vehicle may be
unlocked by using the handset or EKA code.
The EKA code may be 1515 (factory default). It works for a D2.
Whole manual is a free download below. Page 334 of the electrical manual of the 1997 shows that the theft system controls the ground lead for the column switch, so I guess that could be involved.
From the RAVE shop manual:
Theft Alarm LED
Slow Flash: Immobilised or immobilised and armed
Rapid Flash: Volumetrically armed
Intermittent Rapid Flash: Perimetrically armed
No Flash for 10 Seconds: Mislock
Continuous: Driver’s door open (or ignition on)
and immobilised
NOTE: The Theft Alarm LED may also be used to
indicate other conditions.
You may be able to clear it by locking and unlocking driver door several times.
Alos:
Central Locking is controlled by the Theft Alarm Unit
(Z163) and may be locked by using the driver’s door
key, sill button(s) or handset. The vehicle may be
unlocked by using the handset or EKA code.
The EKA code may be 1515 (factory default). It works for a D2.
Whole manual is a free download below. Page 334 of the electrical manual of the 1997 shows that the theft system controls the ground lead for the column switch, so I guess that could be involved.
#3
#4
The light stays on for about a minute? That sounds more like the courtesy light for the ignition cylinder (the ring around the cylinder lights up to help you get the key in to the ignition).
Sounds like you have an alarm issue. Did you try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it with the alarm switch under the hood disconnected or depressed? If you connect the battery with the switch up it will think the truck is being stolen and go into lockdown. One of the relays in the alarm unit may be stuck, try giving it a smack.
Do you have the fob for this truck or just a key? If just a key the micro switch in the drivers door lock may have failed and won't disarm the alarm when you unlock the door.
Where are you located? Perhaps you can find an ECU with a matted AS10 unit and fob to try in the truck. Does this truck have advanced evap or non AEL? The ECU from an AEL truck will probably work in a NON AEL truck(I ran one for the last 3 years or so) but the NON AEL ECU will throw codes in an AEL truck.
Sounds like you have an alarm issue. Did you try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it with the alarm switch under the hood disconnected or depressed? If you connect the battery with the switch up it will think the truck is being stolen and go into lockdown. One of the relays in the alarm unit may be stuck, try giving it a smack.
Do you have the fob for this truck or just a key? If just a key the micro switch in the drivers door lock may have failed and won't disarm the alarm when you unlock the door.
Where are you located? Perhaps you can find an ECU with a matted AS10 unit and fob to try in the truck. Does this truck have advanced evap or non AEL? The ECU from an AEL truck will probably work in a NON AEL truck(I ran one for the last 3 years or so) but the NON AEL ECU will throw codes in an AEL truck.
Last edited by Higgs Boson; 12-09-2013 at 08:31 AM.
#5
Well that narrows down the red light then. Ill try the battery and alarm suppression right now. I'm in Southern California Orange County and I only have the key and no fob. I'm not sure what a micro switch is but I wanna say that's part of the problem cause the key wont budge any of the doors which really narrows down how I'm gonna disarm the alarm.
#6
I think I would lean towards popping in a mated ECU and alarm unit with a fob, this way you will know within about 20 minutes where you stand without pulling any more of your hair out.
Is this truck an early 97 without AEL or a late 97 with AEL? If the charcoal canister is round it is NON AEL, if a rectangular box it has Advanced Evap Loss (AEL).
I have a proven set with a fob sitting on the front seat of my truck if you can't find a set to swap in.
Check every fuse in the truck. Then try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it with the hood switch depressed. If that fails dig out the wiring diagram and try to verify the microswitch function in the door lock, you can get to the wiring harness at the drivers footwell kick panel.
Is this truck an early 97 without AEL or a late 97 with AEL? If the charcoal canister is round it is NON AEL, if a rectangular box it has Advanced Evap Loss (AEL).
I have a proven set with a fob sitting on the front seat of my truck if you can't find a set to swap in.
Check every fuse in the truck. Then try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it with the hood switch depressed. If that fails dig out the wiring diagram and try to verify the microswitch function in the door lock, you can get to the wiring harness at the drivers footwell kick panel.
Last edited by Higgs Boson; 12-10-2013 at 07:06 AM.
#7
#8
#9
#10