Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Someone please clear up the D1 coolant bleed procedure for me...

  #1  
Old 04-20-2014, 12:58 PM
spikeRovah's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Someone please clear up the D1 coolant bleed procedure for me...

I have air in my system. I purged the system multiple times until no more bubbles were coming out of the bleed screw on the radiator.

I replaced my clutch fan, thermostat (OEM from Land Rover), had my radiator cleaned out and checked, both hoses replaced, and the coolant temp sender replaced. Also took a laser to it and the temp read regular at the block and the radiator, but as soon as we pointed it where the sensor sits the temperature skyrockets. So, the truck isn't actually over heating.

I read online and on multiple rover forums of how to bleed this truck. Each procedure is different and I don't know what is right from wrong.

My engine is an Atlantic British redesigned engine, and we just installed it and followed the bleed and break in procedures EXACTLY. And my temp gauge still fluctuates. After all this bleeding it has gotten better, but still randomly goes up from time to time. I haven't been driving the truck. I only drive it around to see if our bleeding has worked or not.

The first time we bled it a few weeks ago we had the nose raised and I was told to take cap off reservoir tank as well as radiator. I was told to open both front windows and turn the heat on full blast. We lets the truck idle til operating temp and thermostat opens, and then we watched as bubbles poured out. We did this for a half hour or so.

Same problem afterward.

The following day we raised nose again, but this time I read elsewhere to leave blowers off and just turn the dials to hot. (this has something to do with air trapped in heater core...?)

We did that, bled for another half hour.

The problem resolved slightly, but still there.

We bled again yesterday and this time we did it twice, once for 45 minutes, and then another 20 minutes.

I also read somewhere on this forum that we are actually supposed to keep the reservoir cap on while doing this.. ???

I drove the truck around for 20 minutes or so and temp gauge never moved from the center. I thought I was scott free.

I took it for a spin this morning and temp gauge went up slightly, hovered, and back to normal and never went up again.

I don't know what else to do. I want to know the correct way to bleed instead of mashing all these different techniques together.

Thanks for any advice..I greatly appreciate it.

spike
 

Last edited by spikeRovah; 04-20-2014 at 01:04 PM.
  #2  
Old 04-20-2014, 02:26 PM
OverRover's Avatar
TReK
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,512
Received 652 Likes on 559 Posts
Default

Post #14 and #15 simple to make, and works every time.


Overheating Returns - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
  #3  
Old 04-20-2014, 02:31 PM
ajnolin's Avatar
Mudding
Join Date: May 2013
Location: NE CT
Posts: 242
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

No magic. rave has a simple and effective procedure. I open the bleeder with the right tire up on a curb, keep the reservoir full, run it with the heat on, and close the bleeder when the air is out and coolant is ready to flow out, only takes 5 or ten min I think, never timed it and never had to do it outside of servicing cooling system components that went and busted. Tons of slight variants on here, everyone has a personal favorite, all are effective. If you have that much air, there's a good chance you may not have a closed system
 
  #4  
Old 04-20-2014, 05:43 PM
TOM R's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: south n.j. and ne va.
Posts: 5,735
Received 226 Likes on 196 Posts
Default

Wheel on curb, both caps off, up to temp( top hose hot), run engine 1500 rpm or so while watching hole in read, once no more air put plug back in then go to idle and reinstall bottle cap

There is no point to mess with the heater there is no coolant shut off valve in this system on d1

How high is your upper hose? I have seen some installed untrimmed that stuck way up higher then the rad, great place for an air pocket
 
  #5  
Old 04-27-2014, 10:32 AM
spikeRovah's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by OverRover
Post #14 and #15 simple to make, and works every time.


Overheating Returns - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
I made this funnel! Going to try it out today, and I'll keep you all updated if it has worked out or not.

Thanks again for the advice! Much appreciated.
 
  #6  
Old 05-08-2014, 07:02 PM
spikeRovah's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I did the funnel trick. Didn't work for me.

I replaced my radiator as well.

Now I have replaced everything. Clutch fan, radiator, thermostat, coolant sender unit, and rad hoses. I even replaced my reservoir cap.

The truck does the same thing. The temp gauge randomly creeps up and then randomly drops back down dead center.

I thought it was air in the system, but i get heat when the temp gauge creeps up, so it can't be air in the system. I ordered an ultra gauge. When I am driving around and the temp gauge is acting normal, the degrees jumps between 188 and 194. When the temp gauge starts to creep the temp goes between 200 and 210, and I cut the vehicle by then.

I don't know what to do anymore. I have no idea what the issue can be. I changed absolutely everything and the engine is new as well as all the gaskets.

Can there be some hose on wrong or something? I don't understand what the issue can be. I am at an absolute loss.
 

Last edited by spikeRovah; 05-08-2014 at 07:04 PM.
  #7  
Old 05-08-2014, 09:04 PM
CUpgt's Avatar
Pro Wrench
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Water pump?
 
  #8  
Old 05-08-2014, 09:24 PM
OverRover's Avatar
TReK
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,512
Received 652 Likes on 559 Posts
Default

When you replaced the fan clutch, check that you mounted the fan in the correct direction.
 
  #9  
Old 05-08-2014, 09:47 PM
spikeRovah's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Fan is in correct direction and water pump is new.
 
  #10  
Old 05-08-2014, 09:54 PM
CUpgt's Avatar
Pro Wrench
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Hate to say it, but I'd do an exhaust gas test on the coolant. You could have a HG leaking exhuast into the cooling system causing an air pocket that escapes when it passes through. If you haven't replaced the cap on the expansion tank you should do that before anything. A bad cap can do all kinds of funny things.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Someone please clear up the D1 coolant bleed procedure for me...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:10 PM.