Someone please clear up the D1 coolant bleed procedure for me...
#1
Someone please clear up the D1 coolant bleed procedure for me...
I have air in my system. I purged the system multiple times until no more bubbles were coming out of the bleed screw on the radiator.
I replaced my clutch fan, thermostat (OEM from Land Rover), had my radiator cleaned out and checked, both hoses replaced, and the coolant temp sender replaced. Also took a laser to it and the temp read regular at the block and the radiator, but as soon as we pointed it where the sensor sits the temperature skyrockets. So, the truck isn't actually over heating.
I read online and on multiple rover forums of how to bleed this truck. Each procedure is different and I don't know what is right from wrong.
My engine is an Atlantic British redesigned engine, and we just installed it and followed the bleed and break in procedures EXACTLY. And my temp gauge still fluctuates. After all this bleeding it has gotten better, but still randomly goes up from time to time. I haven't been driving the truck. I only drive it around to see if our bleeding has worked or not.
The first time we bled it a few weeks ago we had the nose raised and I was told to take cap off reservoir tank as well as radiator. I was told to open both front windows and turn the heat on full blast. We lets the truck idle til operating temp and thermostat opens, and then we watched as bubbles poured out. We did this for a half hour or so.
Same problem afterward.
The following day we raised nose again, but this time I read elsewhere to leave blowers off and just turn the dials to hot. (this has something to do with air trapped in heater core...?)
We did that, bled for another half hour.
The problem resolved slightly, but still there.
We bled again yesterday and this time we did it twice, once for 45 minutes, and then another 20 minutes.
I also read somewhere on this forum that we are actually supposed to keep the reservoir cap on while doing this.. ???
I drove the truck around for 20 minutes or so and temp gauge never moved from the center. I thought I was scott free.
I took it for a spin this morning and temp gauge went up slightly, hovered, and back to normal and never went up again.
I don't know what else to do. I want to know the correct way to bleed instead of mashing all these different techniques together.
Thanks for any advice..I greatly appreciate it.
spike
I replaced my clutch fan, thermostat (OEM from Land Rover), had my radiator cleaned out and checked, both hoses replaced, and the coolant temp sender replaced. Also took a laser to it and the temp read regular at the block and the radiator, but as soon as we pointed it where the sensor sits the temperature skyrockets. So, the truck isn't actually over heating.
I read online and on multiple rover forums of how to bleed this truck. Each procedure is different and I don't know what is right from wrong.
My engine is an Atlantic British redesigned engine, and we just installed it and followed the bleed and break in procedures EXACTLY. And my temp gauge still fluctuates. After all this bleeding it has gotten better, but still randomly goes up from time to time. I haven't been driving the truck. I only drive it around to see if our bleeding has worked or not.
The first time we bled it a few weeks ago we had the nose raised and I was told to take cap off reservoir tank as well as radiator. I was told to open both front windows and turn the heat on full blast. We lets the truck idle til operating temp and thermostat opens, and then we watched as bubbles poured out. We did this for a half hour or so.
Same problem afterward.
The following day we raised nose again, but this time I read elsewhere to leave blowers off and just turn the dials to hot. (this has something to do with air trapped in heater core...?)
We did that, bled for another half hour.
The problem resolved slightly, but still there.
We bled again yesterday and this time we did it twice, once for 45 minutes, and then another 20 minutes.
I also read somewhere on this forum that we are actually supposed to keep the reservoir cap on while doing this.. ???
I drove the truck around for 20 minutes or so and temp gauge never moved from the center. I thought I was scott free.
I took it for a spin this morning and temp gauge went up slightly, hovered, and back to normal and never went up again.
I don't know what else to do. I want to know the correct way to bleed instead of mashing all these different techniques together.
Thanks for any advice..I greatly appreciate it.
spike
Last edited by spikeRovah; 04-20-2014 at 01:04 PM.
#2
Post #14 and #15 simple to make, and works every time.
Overheating Returns - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
Overheating Returns - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
#3
No magic. rave has a simple and effective procedure. I open the bleeder with the right tire up on a curb, keep the reservoir full, run it with the heat on, and close the bleeder when the air is out and coolant is ready to flow out, only takes 5 or ten min I think, never timed it and never had to do it outside of servicing cooling system components that went and busted. Tons of slight variants on here, everyone has a personal favorite, all are effective. If you have that much air, there's a good chance you may not have a closed system
#4
Wheel on curb, both caps off, up to temp( top hose hot), run engine 1500 rpm or so while watching hole in read, once no more air put plug back in then go to idle and reinstall bottle cap
There is no point to mess with the heater there is no coolant shut off valve in this system on d1
How high is your upper hose? I have seen some installed untrimmed that stuck way up higher then the rad, great place for an air pocket
There is no point to mess with the heater there is no coolant shut off valve in this system on d1
How high is your upper hose? I have seen some installed untrimmed that stuck way up higher then the rad, great place for an air pocket
#5
Post #14 and #15 simple to make, and works every time.
Overheating Returns - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
Overheating Returns - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
Thanks again for the advice! Much appreciated.
#6
I did the funnel trick. Didn't work for me.
I replaced my radiator as well.
Now I have replaced everything. Clutch fan, radiator, thermostat, coolant sender unit, and rad hoses. I even replaced my reservoir cap.
The truck does the same thing. The temp gauge randomly creeps up and then randomly drops back down dead center.
I thought it was air in the system, but i get heat when the temp gauge creeps up, so it can't be air in the system. I ordered an ultra gauge. When I am driving around and the temp gauge is acting normal, the degrees jumps between 188 and 194. When the temp gauge starts to creep the temp goes between 200 and 210, and I cut the vehicle by then.
I don't know what to do anymore. I have no idea what the issue can be. I changed absolutely everything and the engine is new as well as all the gaskets.
Can there be some hose on wrong or something? I don't understand what the issue can be. I am at an absolute loss.
I replaced my radiator as well.
Now I have replaced everything. Clutch fan, radiator, thermostat, coolant sender unit, and rad hoses. I even replaced my reservoir cap.
The truck does the same thing. The temp gauge randomly creeps up and then randomly drops back down dead center.
I thought it was air in the system, but i get heat when the temp gauge creeps up, so it can't be air in the system. I ordered an ultra gauge. When I am driving around and the temp gauge is acting normal, the degrees jumps between 188 and 194. When the temp gauge starts to creep the temp goes between 200 and 210, and I cut the vehicle by then.
I don't know what to do anymore. I have no idea what the issue can be. I changed absolutely everything and the engine is new as well as all the gaskets.
Can there be some hose on wrong or something? I don't understand what the issue can be. I am at an absolute loss.
Last edited by spikeRovah; 05-08-2014 at 07:04 PM.
#8
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Hate to say it, but I'd do an exhaust gas test on the coolant. You could have a HG leaking exhuast into the cooling system causing an air pocket that escapes when it passes through. If you haven't replaced the cap on the expansion tank you should do that before anything. A bad cap can do all kinds of funny things.