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It takes about 10-15 minutes of driving before my car temp gauge reaches a little less than 9oclock. Is this normal? I don't have time to start my car and let it sit for that much time or else I would be late to school but I noticed I'm about halfway to school before my heater actually kicks in. Do I need to change my thermostat or what?
This was happening to me. I removed the thermostat and found it was mechanically stuck open. (clip was stuck to the coil). i released it and put it back in and everything's been good. Maybe that's what's happening to you. Use a new gasket on thermostat housing. Good luck
You don't need to wait for the engine to get to operating temp. before driving. Start the engine and give the tranny 30 seconds to build pressure and go.
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Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club, SCLR and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with a Detroit and T.T. lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, sliders, Warn winch, and 5 HID's.
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Originally Posted by tornado_735I keep motivating myself saying that some poor bastard had to do the very same thing during the Camel Trophy and that I'm no different from him.
My gauge (and they all read a little differently) comes to almost 8:00 at 130 F, and won't go past 9:00 until beyond 235 F, and it is not linear. I would agree also that no need to wait for warm up by gauge. Now warm up by feeling warm in truck is a different time issue. Engine will warm up faster under power than idle.
It is also correct to say if the thermostat is sticking it will take a long time to get heat. With no stat at all (which I tried), I would only get to 135 - 145 F water temp in summer, that would be less in winter.
So if you still don't get heat "soon enough" you might consider replacing $10 stat (which might be sticking) with either a 180 or 195F, don't use a 160 or you will have too little heat. You also want stat to have a vent device or drill a small hole in it, which allows coolant bubbles to pass.
Which fitting do I need to buy?
I'm looking at the m1-3 10mm x 1 fine thread with non-threaded lead for SAE and DIN flare. Can somebody send me a link of the correct ones from fedhill?