Tire Size
#11
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USNAVYORDNANCE (01-22-2015)
#12
Camel cut is a go! Thanks for the info Fish. I was planning on doing it anyways but didn't know where to start / template. The middle rig in your pic is what I'm aiming mine to look like. I'll check into the steering stops but it wasn't rubbing on the radius arms when we op checked it and drove it around town for a hour.
This tire measures in at 33x11.7. Plenty of tread for what I need. If I feel the need to regear later on down the road, I will. No problem doing that. Might actually just regear the t-case. If I break a shaft, I'll buy 4340 chromemolly ones and be done with it. She's not my DD so not too worried...
This tire measures in at 33x11.7. Plenty of tread for what I need. If I feel the need to regear later on down the road, I will. No problem doing that. Might actually just regear the t-case. If I break a shaft, I'll buy 4340 chromemolly ones and be done with it. She's not my DD so not too worried...
Last edited by USNAVYORDNANCE; 01-21-2015 at 08:58 PM.
#13
#14
#15
Camel cut is a go! Thanks for the info Fish. I was planning on doing it anyways but didn't know where to start / template. The middle rig in your pic is what I'm aiming mine to look like. I'll check into the steering stops but it wasn't rubbing on the radius arms when we op checked it and drove it around town for a hour.
This tire measures in at 33x11.7. Plenty of tread for what I need. If I feel the need to regear later on down the road, I will. No problem doing that. Might actually just regear the t-case. If I break a shaft, I'll buy 4340 chromemolly ones and be done with it. She's not my DD so not too worried...
This tire measures in at 33x11.7. Plenty of tread for what I need. If I feel the need to regear later on down the road, I will. No problem doing that. Might actually just regear the t-case. If I break a shaft, I'll buy 4340 chromemolly ones and be done with it. She's not my DD so not too worried...
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USNAVYORDNANCE (01-22-2015)
#17
#18
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USNAVYORDNANCE (01-22-2015)
#20
Looks like you've already made up your mind but.....
I've had a lot of different tires/sizes.
1) 265/75/16 GY DuraTracs on 2" lift. Great tire. Had to adjust steering stops to prevent radius arm rub at full lock. Camel Cut front and rear to prevent body damage on articulation.
2) 265/70/16 GY Authority's on 2.5" lift. Didn't run this setup long enough to form an opinion.
3) 235/85/16 Toyo Open Country on 2" lift. This was my brothers truck that I now daily drive. Less aggressive tread and narrower with noticeably less rolling resistance. No camel cut needed in front. Could use one in the rear because part of the lower rear quarterpanel is ripped from tire contract. No adjustment needed to steering lock. Drives great.
4) 315/75/16 BFG KM2's on 3-3.5" lift. Needed a bigger lift to run these which introduced a whole host of other issues to fix. Larger tire necessitated regearing the diffs and lockers to strengthen them. WIDE tire for a D1. I run wheel spacers and still had to adjust steering stops. Camel Cut front, everything below the trim gone in the back. Inner part of rear wheel arch by where the first door seal is needed to be cut out. Tires BARELY clear when stuffing. They actually rub where the inside wheel well meets the flat cargo tub in the rear. These tires are HEAVY and have a lot of rolling resistance. BUT, with these tires and full lockers it was a beast off(and on) road.
With your tires you'll need to do a camel cut front and rear and adjust steering stops. You will probably need to trim the inside of the rear arches near the doors. You can do fender flares if you want, but they aren't needed.
Here's a comparison pic of my D1's, from left to right:
2" lift-235/85/16, 3.5" lift-315/75/16, 2.5" lift-265/75/16
For trucks that will see a lot of road and some trail use I think a narrower tire, like 255/85/16, is a good choice. My next set of tires will be something narrower in the 34-35" range.
I've had a lot of different tires/sizes.
1) 265/75/16 GY DuraTracs on 2" lift. Great tire. Had to adjust steering stops to prevent radius arm rub at full lock. Camel Cut front and rear to prevent body damage on articulation.
2) 265/70/16 GY Authority's on 2.5" lift. Didn't run this setup long enough to form an opinion.
3) 235/85/16 Toyo Open Country on 2" lift. This was my brothers truck that I now daily drive. Less aggressive tread and narrower with noticeably less rolling resistance. No camel cut needed in front. Could use one in the rear because part of the lower rear quarterpanel is ripped from tire contract. No adjustment needed to steering lock. Drives great.
4) 315/75/16 BFG KM2's on 3-3.5" lift. Needed a bigger lift to run these which introduced a whole host of other issues to fix. Larger tire necessitated regearing the diffs and lockers to strengthen them. WIDE tire for a D1. I run wheel spacers and still had to adjust steering stops. Camel Cut front, everything below the trim gone in the back. Inner part of rear wheel arch by where the first door seal is needed to be cut out. Tires BARELY clear when stuffing. They actually rub where the inside wheel well meets the flat cargo tub in the rear. These tires are HEAVY and have a lot of rolling resistance. BUT, with these tires and full lockers it was a beast off(and on) road.
With your tires you'll need to do a camel cut front and rear and adjust steering stops. You will probably need to trim the inside of the rear arches near the doors. You can do fender flares if you want, but they aren't needed.
Here's a comparison pic of my D1's, from left to right:
2" lift-235/85/16, 3.5" lift-315/75/16, 2.5" lift-265/75/16
For trucks that will see a lot of road and some trail use I think a narrower tire, like 255/85/16, is a good choice. My next set of tires will be something narrower in the 34-35" range.