Transfer case worries
#1
Transfer case worries
I've been thinking that I have a driveline problem since I put this truck back on the road. I need to know if there are some tricks to diagnosing a failing transfer case.
My number one issue is that it pops out of gear quite a bit when I need it most. Usually in lo locked going up a steep hill. Not every time. But a lot.
Secondly I have felt a driveline vibration from the beginning. It's a very fast vibration at 30-60mph. I will replace the ujoints ASAP to eliminate the possibility.
Third is that it whines at most speeds. I have put new oil in it twice since I got it. Both times I checked for shavings. None.
Also when I did the oil the first time it was pretty low on fluid and dirty.
Finally when I bought this truck it had a missing front drive shaft. The previous owner had been driving it around for who knows how long with the differential locked. So this alone makes me nervous.
There is also a good about of play in the rear drive shaft. I can twist it back and forth before it feels like it catches the gears inside.
I also need to know if the case from a D2 is a bolt in fit. Lots more of those in the junk yard than D1's. I will get another and go through it while this one still works.
Are there ways to diagnose this unit as failing? I really really don't want to wait for it to leave me stranded.
My number one issue is that it pops out of gear quite a bit when I need it most. Usually in lo locked going up a steep hill. Not every time. But a lot.
Secondly I have felt a driveline vibration from the beginning. It's a very fast vibration at 30-60mph. I will replace the ujoints ASAP to eliminate the possibility.
Third is that it whines at most speeds. I have put new oil in it twice since I got it. Both times I checked for shavings. None.
Also when I did the oil the first time it was pretty low on fluid and dirty.
Finally when I bought this truck it had a missing front drive shaft. The previous owner had been driving it around for who knows how long with the differential locked. So this alone makes me nervous.
There is also a good about of play in the rear drive shaft. I can twist it back and forth before it feels like it catches the gears inside.
I also need to know if the case from a D2 is a bolt in fit. Lots more of those in the junk yard than D1's. I will get another and go through it while this one still works.
Are there ways to diagnose this unit as failing? I really really don't want to wait for it to leave me stranded.
#2
its a big, bad *** geared tcase that is reduced even in high range... its gonna whine.
mine only pops out of gear when its not fully engaged... did you take the shifter apart and make sure its going completely into gear?
driving around locked with no front shaft really wont hurt anything.
and mine has play too.. probably a little bit more than "spec" but thats going to be the case with over 100,000 miles.
have you done any driveline mods with the lift? your driveshaft angle could be off, creating the vibe. i doubt the tcase is the culprit.
mine only pops out of gear when its not fully engaged... did you take the shifter apart and make sure its going completely into gear?
driving around locked with no front shaft really wont hurt anything.
and mine has play too.. probably a little bit more than "spec" but thats going to be the case with over 100,000 miles.
have you done any driveline mods with the lift? your driveshaft angle could be off, creating the vibe. i doubt the tcase is the culprit.
#3
Not much I can help you with on diagnosis but if you ever make it to Los Angeles this place has lots of Rovers. Also if they have something you want and are up for it sight unseen I'd be happy to pick things up and meet you at the 210 & 15 with it.
FRESH 6/21 4 PARTS: 1999 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY II HIT DOORS/GOOD PARTS!
John
FRESH 6/21 4 PARTS: 1999 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY II HIT DOORS/GOOD PARTS!
John
#6
#7
#8
its a big, bad *** geared tcase that is reduced even in high range... its gonna whine.
mine only pops out of gear when its not fully engaged... did you take the shifter apart and make sure its going completely into gear?
driving around locked with no front shaft really wont hurt anything.
and mine has play too.. probably a little bit more than "spec" but thats going to be the case with over 100,000 miles.
have you done any driveline mods with the lift? your driveshaft angle could be off, creating the vibe. i doubt the tcase is the culprit.
mine only pops out of gear when its not fully engaged... did you take the shifter apart and make sure its going completely into gear?
driving around locked with no front shaft really wont hurt anything.
and mine has play too.. probably a little bit more than "spec" but thats going to be the case with over 100,000 miles.
have you done any driveline mods with the lift? your driveshaft angle could be off, creating the vibe. i doubt the tcase is the culprit.
I haven't done any mods to the driveline but should it be? I thought with with just a 2" lift I shouldn't have to.
#10
I had a vibration on my driveline so I decided to replace my U-Joints last week. When I went to remove the rear drive shaft, I discovered that two of the four bolts mounted on the transfer case flange were stripped and loose. This was the source of the vibration. If you remove the shafts to replace the U-Joints, I would replaced all of the 3/8"-24 Nuts and bolts. I used Grade 8 bolts and nuts, the nuts were the locking type.
A helpful tip, chock the wheels, remove the driveshaft on the axel sides first, and place the transmission in neutral to rotate and remove the axel bolts on the transfer case sides. If you remove the tcase flanges to replace the 3/8-24 bolts, a 30mm socket is needed and you may wish to replace the felt sealing washers on each end. A small amount of oil will leak out of the tcase once the flanges are removed so be prepared to catch the oil and refill during reassembly.
A helpful tip, chock the wheels, remove the driveshaft on the axel sides first, and place the transmission in neutral to rotate and remove the axel bolts on the transfer case sides. If you remove the tcase flanges to replace the 3/8-24 bolts, a 30mm socket is needed and you may wish to replace the felt sealing washers on each end. A small amount of oil will leak out of the tcase once the flanges are removed so be prepared to catch the oil and refill during reassembly.