Good evening everyone.

I had a question regarding my transmission fluid. Let me preface first by saying I'm not having any transmission issues. My disco shifts up and down smoothly. It does clunk usually when I put it into reverse, but I've read that isn't something to be alarmed at.

I checked my fluid and it doesn't seem to be red at all. Honestly it looks like standard motor oil. It doesn't smell burnt to me, but I'm unexperienced in this area so I don't really have a benchmark. I've included a picture here for reference.

I don't know the specific history regarding the transmission maintenance schedule but overall the previous owner has taken very good care of the vehicle and had it professionally serviced at regular intervals. I've read conflicting opinions on changing transmission fluid.

This brings me to my second and what I believe more immediate question. I have unsuccessfully tried soldering a small leak on my radiator by the upper right transmission/oil line so my next move is going to be removing the radiator to have it professionally rodded and soldered. If I go this route, in the process of detaching all the lines will I lose enough transmission fluid to the point where I will need to replace it, and if so, what would I end up putting in there?

Thanks in advance for all the replies.

 

Um, I'll take a guess and say "Transmission Fluid"?

Is that a diaper? Good idea if it is.

By the way, copper/brass radiators use lead solder and not the hardware store stuff.

Dextron III is what's recommended. Drain off what comes out of the radiator tank, fill to level. Drive for about a week or two. Then leave the current filter installed but REPLACE all the trans fluid. In about 5k change the filter (which you will deeply enjoy) and replace the fluid once more. This should prevent dislodged old solidified fluid from ruining a nice day.

You have to check it cold but engine running, run it through the gears a couple of times, put in neutral (parking brake on) and check stick once more. Fill as needed.

 

Yeah sorry, dumb question of the day. Standby as certainly more to follow…

So you're saying I should replace it. Could you explain how exactly this method keeps the old fluid from dislodging? I'll make sure to follow it though. When you say to drain off what comes out of the radiator tank and then fill to level are you talking about the transmission line? And if so, is it alright to be mixing the old and new fluids?

I'll try and find the proper leaded solder from Autozone and give it another shot. In the likely event I still have to pull the radiator and let the pros handle it, will I be able to remove the transmission line without losing fluid so I don't have to fool with the transmission until I get the radiator situation handled?

 

It looks like you're overthinking this because of some superstition or something. Drain the transmission fluid from the pan and replace it with Dextron III compatible fluid. There's no need to replace the transmission fluid filter. That is done only once after the break-in period.

At the radiator, torque on the hose will crack the solder around the fittings. Land Rover designed the fluid lines with a rubber section to limit torque, but over time the joints still fail due to fatigue. They can be re-soldered. Rodding may be necessary in the worst cases of contamination, but many radiators will only have a little solder bloom. Just lay it front-down and fill it with phosphoric acid (half-water is ok) from the home-improvement store (paint section) and let it soak for a few hours or overnight, then flush it out with the hose and refill with a fluid compatible with the fluid in your block and heater core. Dexcool was the OE fill for a '99 and it works good in that and similar model years.

 

I'm sure I am overthinking it. It just seems like there is conflicting advice with regards to whether or not you should be changing the transmission filter and/or fluid.

Scouts I'll pick up some leaded solder as the kind I grabbed from Lowe's is lead free, but I got it because it specifically said it was for radiators. Its 97/3 Acid core FWIW.

 

I had the same questions about the filter. I changed mine, just because I wanted to clean the inside of the pan and the magnet in the bottom of the pas. Since I had it open, and was in there, and seems to make good sense. I had those say they go by the manual, but depending on your mileage, not sure LR had any idea how long you may have these fine machines. What can it hurt is my question to those you do not feel they should change it. I know what the manuals says, but I think once you get some years and miles, I would change it.

 

I notice you have really low miles and the color of the fluid tells me it's probably original. The red dye has disappeared and with that you can imagine the striation that occurred if it sat for a long period without being disturbed. To be absolutely honest I wouldn't have started the engine with fluid that color. The "Service Sheet" on a 99 D1 says the first filter change is scheduled at 30000 mile mark or after 24 months. I wonder if yours was ever changed and inso wondering I would err on the side of good judgement and just replace it, no worries. Same goes for the fluid, replace it. I just don't like to introduce both all at once because transmissions are not easily rebuilt (or understood) for the average weekend DIY'r. We don't just meet our future spouses and get married after the first date, takes time to get to know one another and that courtship usually lasts over a year. Same applies with new fluid, new filter, simply trying to reduce the possibility of failure. I doubt anyone has rebuilt a transmission and especially our resident ID10T. I have.

That brings me to the Dexcool comment. Um, do not use it. It's strongly thought to be linked to aluminum corrosion in our Rover engines and nobody has recommended it to anyone in the community for oh say 5+ years now. It is the coolant used in Rover engines AFTER the D1 model and I recommend only green to everyone with a Rover period. If somebody can't change their coolant after a simple gravity test then they shouldn't be opening the hood....... or allowed to look at a tool.

 

As far as I know, the vehicle never sat for an extended period of time. It was just used very sparingly on a weekly basis. But that definitly makes me nervous what you said. Like I said, I haven't had issues with the transmmission yet and I've put around 2k on it since I bought it. If you think its best to go ahead and replace the filter and fluid though that'll be my next project.


Why does there seem to be an opinion by some not to replace either after its reached a certain point?


Got the coolant system all filled up with the green as you recommended, no Dexcool. No leak or waterfall anymore either so pretty stoked there!


Hope everyone happy Thanksgiving!

 

Ben, that's my opinion....... if it's doing what it's designed to then don't worry too much, just replace the fluid. As far as the filter....whatever. It's not easy to replace it so most don't. You have to disconnect the "Y" pipe, drop it and the frame cross brace to drop the trans pan to get to the filter. To me that's a great opportunity to replace exhaust manifold studs (which loosen or break eventually causing leakage) and to see what the trans pan has in it. I combine my maintenance items together to make the best use of my time under the truck like doing an oil change, greasing U-joints, draining the diffs, changing the exhaust olive gasket, while removing the trans pan...... I don't have that much time to do them one at a time separately. Plan ahead eh. Have everything you can think of ready to go when you do it.

Did you get the radiator fixed?

Happy TG back!

 

Yeah I've looked into the filter change and just don't know if I'm "there yet". Since it is performing as intending I think I will go ahead and just change out the fluid so it'll be nice and red.

I was able to get the radiator fixed. I just used some JB Weld on the spot where i saw it leaking. I know this isn't a permanent fix but it appears to have worked. With one final burping now theres no waterfall sound and the carport floor is totally dry. For this week at least, this Land Rover won't be leaking!

Thanks for all your help Scouts.