Anyone out there who knows exactly which component must be connected to which LT terminal (positive or negative) on the ignition coil on a 1995 V8i Discovery 1?

• From the ignition switch?

• From the Distributor?

• From the ignition Amplifier Module?

• From whatever else?
• When there are two wires from a component, which one goes where?

The Rave indications are too sketchy. I need a wiring diagram or description.

 

Certainly I had hopes that there would be some solid advice (help) to this one?

Please, gentlemen.

 

Are you asking what wire colors belong on which terminals? The Rave includes those in the ETM although the wire color doesn't always match up with reality. I don't have a coil otherwise I'd take a picture. I take it it's still not running properly......

 

This is the best I can get, the coloring on the Discovery wires match, but I do not know whether it is correct.

10 days now without a spark from the coil. I get sporadic alarm sounding when I unlock the doors, but never because of a specific action. Most of the time there is no alarm or lights flashing when I unlock the doors with the key (no remote).

 

It's correct according to the Rave's ETM. Did you check out the driver's side door switch to ensure it's in working order both electrically and physically? The other thing with these alarms is the other door locks working correctly. If one isn't then the alarm won't set or unset. Double check them.

 

Thank you Scouts,

Almost two weeks now, no spark from the coil. The alarm sounding or activation is very sporadic with no pattern. Certainly the left rear passenger door sill **** sometimes does not unlock when I open with the key at the driver's door, but mostly it does. It however locks down each time i turn the key left for locking. Whatever the action or no action it has no bearing on the lack of spark / starting.

I removed the driver lock and it works as I understand it should - press and halway it grabs and moves in; pull and halway it grabs and moves out.

I have no remote controller and often wonder whether that would be required to reset the immobilizer.

 

Here is the latest to this sad saga:

1. Yesterday there was sparking at a removed spark plug, but no starting - fuel pressure is good. I suspected a problem of wrong rotor positioning after re-installing the distributor. Removed and re-installed it again to marked position.

2. Today, no spark from the coil lead onto the engine, but again smell of fuel.

3. Turned the ignition off, replaced the coil lead to the distributor, waited about 2 mins - and the moment I turned the ignition on there was an immediate backfire (no, I did not crank the engine, the moment power went to the coil from the battery there was an ignition spark and a backfire into the exhaust.

4. Does this mean that there is a collossal ignition timing problem? That there is ignition but it never arrives at the proper stroke?

5. I set the distributor correctly as usual after having checked the distributor pickup resistance.

6. By the way - can anybody please tell me how to connect a signal lamp to set the static ignition timing on this engine (1995 V8i)? Rave simply says to set the static ignition timing but nowhere do I find how that is done with a reluctor system.

7. When I do a direct contact between the battery positive and the coil LT positive there is a continuous relays clicking noise apart from the normal fuel relay, etc.

The thot plickens on this.

 

First static timing is really very easy, no bulbs needed. TDC on the compression stroke, number 1 piston, rotor pointing at number 1 spark plug on the cap.

The compression stroke is going to have both valves closed while the piston travels up which if you've removed the spark plug on number 1 would push the pressure through open spark plug hole. Timing marks on your crank pulley are going to tell you where to place it when the plug would fire, like 8 degrees before TDC for example (the Rave has the exact static timing specs). The dizzy is then rotated by either removing it and aligning the gears or by a smaller degree by turning it so that the rotor is under the number 1 spark plug terminal on the cap.

That's how you set the initial timing (static timing) on any dizzy equipped motor when you remove the dizzy or change it's position.

I only care when the piston is in compression stroke and traveling up to TDC and then once I have TDC I then set the dizzy/rotor to number 1 plug terminal.

A backfire through the exhaust means your on the exhaust stroke, exhaust valve opening and pushing unburned fuel by the piston traveling up to TDC.

 

Thanks Scouts, that is how I had the distributor set in fact, just thought there would be a more exact position like one is able to do with a light and old ignition points system.

Just to reconfirm - the engine had been turned over by the starter with this exact setting and with some latent indication that something may happen. Then I switched off to cool the starter motor. After two or three minutes, as I turned the ignition key and waiting for the fuel pump the bang came - the moment the key turned - I have not even considered engaging the starter yet when it backfired - just as the ignition lights came on an immediate backfire.

Hope the timing chain is intact...

 

Scouts, only when you have the time...

The guy I bought the vehicle from reckons the fault is with the pick-up coil. I do not know how to test this component apart from measuring the resistance across the two terminals which seemed to be the way it should be.

Is there any other way to determine whether the pick-up is working or not? Nothing seems to be the matter in there - steady and secure reluctor too. Everything today pointed to sporadic ignition timing (in my view).