I'd say injector because the sparks are paired up and logically the issue would be on two cylinders not just one whereas an injector is all by itself. Weak coil, sticking needle, clogged nozzle, cracked nozzle, wire problem.....blah, blah, blah.

Basically the crank sensor handles ignition - sparks, the cam sensor handles fuel injection - when to fire/timing. Curious what the outcome is going to be. I think I have the same code but I've got a pre-AEL so I'm a little different config than you guys. Short term fuel trim is fat - rich.

 

Reason I think can sensor, location, hot area and gets anitfreeze on it from stat and water pump work, plus the pigtail wiring coming from it

Cleaned mine while engine was out obvious made no difference

 

Hmmm, that's interesting. Did you need to trick the ECU in any way to accomplish this? Aren't there AEL related CEL codes that would pop if you remove the system?

 

Closest diagnostic I know of is putting an oscilloscope on the CkPS.

 

Yes a few codes related to the missing hardware, but I pulled the CEL bulb and set the Ultragauge only to alert new codes.

 

My wife complained about me using “her” van to relocate the squirrels I trap under the bird feeders so I put the cleaned downstream O2 sensors back in so I could use the Disco. I had put in a new battery and disconnected the charcoal canister vacuum line and capped the nipple at the intake while I had it in the garage, but I did nothing to the upstream O2 sensors except spray liquid wrench on the hex part of the bodies.
When I started the engine it blew some white smoke at idle while I waited for the UltraGage to re-scan and get to the O2 voltage page, and driving to my squirrel drop, B1S1 was reading very low, .001, and B1S2 was bouncing up and down while B2S1 was steady at .995 and B2S2 was steady at .005 (which is about where B1S1 and B1S2 were before I pulled the downstream sensors). There were no codes set, but checking the UG at the squirrel drop P1317 was pending. (Gems_obd.pdf says “ABS - rough road signal line permanently at ground or open circuit - ECM disables misfire detection under these conditions.)
Then driving back and downhill to the boat house, B1S1 went to 1.0 and then .995 to .980 and the UG showed open loop and B1S2 varied from very low to over 1; B2S1 and B2S2 varied just a little from .995 and .005 while B1S2 varied quite a BIT. On restart at the boat house both B1S1 and B2S1 were above 1.0 at idle and then in the .9s. At home still no codes were set, but P1187 was added to the P1317 on the pending code list. (P1187 –Upstream Oxygen Sensor heater inferred open circuit (one heater)).
TodayI started the engine from cold and erased the pending codes while it warmed up. B1S1 began at 1.020 and went as low as 0.015, B2S1 started at 1.005 but settled into 0.990 to 0.995, B1S2 started at 1.010 and went as high as 1.015 and as low as 0.550 but generally stayed high, and B2S2 remained near 0.005. Engine temp was 201F, RPM at idle was 700, and idle was a little rougher than I remember it being with some slight hiccups and it now has a tendency to stumble coming off a 2 to 3k rev.
The cleaning I did may be the reason that B1S2 now shows voltages over 1 when it was always low and relatively steady before, but I have no idea why B1S1 has suddenly changed to such a wide range of voltages when I didn’t mess with it. I did spray contact cleaner in the downstream sensor connectors before re-connecting them which might have affected their readings, but the change in the upstream sensor is a mystery.
However, no P1313 or P1314 codes have been set and no flashing CEL yet, though that may change on the next squirrel run. I am curious to see how new upstream sensors will affect things; I am expecting to see both of them make rapid changes in voltage that folks say a good sensor should. BTW, vacuum at idle was still a steady 15.5” Hg with the canister vacuum line disconnected and the plenum nipple capped, so I removed the cap and put the line back on.

 

So Eric any luck?

 

well went out and started rover this morning walked away and after like 1 minute heard it stumling like it was struggling to stay running, then it went away, checked for codes and there are none so idk, but i am sure its all part of the same problem

now when i got in i did see the tps was at 12.2 and jumping to like 12.4,12 .6, 12.0 but idle was still approx 700 rpm

this normaly sits at 11.8 guess i need a new tps soon

 

Eric,
When you "rebuilt" this engine did you actually remove it?
The reason I ask?? It is easy to bend the reluctor tab(s) when removing, and re installing the torque converter bolts.
When you said "the ckp is centered" did you check to see if it is centered between ALL the reluctor tabs?
If you're sure you checked all the reluctor tabs, then I would recommend you check them again...
Inspect all of them, Especially the ones before and after each torque converter bolt.
Look at the reluctor ring where it should lay flat on the flex plate around the 4 torque converter bolt holes for any lifting.
CAREFULLY bend any tabs back as best as possible to the 6mm spacing (iirc) and make sure the reluctors are parallel to each other.
It doesn't take much effort to break them off
If you can't find any bent reluctors, the next step would be to scope test the ckp sensor.
It's a simple procedure, you do need a scope though. A single trace scope is all you need.
You may be able to get an app, and cable for you i-phone or android device
I can walk you through it or email you the info if you are interested.

 

Mike g we moved on to the cam sensor crank sensor and reluctors are checked