Would like a realistic idea of how long a process it is to replace water pump on a 98 Disco. Just curious as I am going to be doing just that the first of the week! Anything I need to be aware of, don't need any surprises popping up...

 

if all goes well...2 hours should close to enough time......assuming nothing breaks in the process..lol
nows a good time to replace the thermostat and any hoses....blow or flush out the heater core, make sure there's nothing lodged between the rad and the a/c condenser, new serp belt ?,

 

I have a 98 also and will eventually do the same. Post some photos and tips if you don't mind as it will help more than a few on this forum I'd imagine. How many miles are you currently at?

Thanks

 

It's a pretty straight-forward job, one of the easiest water pumps to change. I don't know if you really need any photos ...just look it over. The top of the fan shroud literally unsnaps, everything is pretty much right there where you can get at it.

Couple things I would suggest looking at and changing at the same time (if it needs it):
1) Fan Clutch - These don't last forever and it would be easy to change while doing the water pump. Usually when they fail, the fan clutch locks up and they whirl like a jet engine. Eventually the bearings cook and it can take out your water pump, and/or radiator-hood too if things get real bad. If yours hasn't been changed, something to look at and consider. Grab it and feel for excessive 'play', which you don't want, and smooth spinning action, which you DO want. You can replace the F/C later on by itself too, it's a little easier if you're already in there, but not hard later on by itself. Nothing hard about it other than the large wrench you need to remove it, which some parts stores loan out.

2) Lower Radiator hose - Now's the time to replace the lower radiator hose if it's flabby, weak ...or really old. Because it's got that funky joint in it, they are particularly suceptible to leaking and going out w/o a lot of warning ...and leading to overheating, which can (will) send your L/R to an early grave. I'd give it a look at and replace if you have any doubts. A lot easier to do when the water pump is out and fluid drained. The lower radiator hose is expensive from L/R or Atlantic British, but definitely not a place to go cheap.

3) Belt - If your rig needs a new belt, now is also a good time to do it, when you have it off. ***Be absolutely sure you re-route the belt the PROPER way*** I swear 1/2 the people who work on their Disco I's get it wrong and it causes all sorts of headaches. Funny thing is it will fit two ways (only on a L/R??) and it 'will' work if you route it the way you'd *Think* it should go (the wrong way), but not quite. If it's routed incorrectly it'll slip at highway speeds, overheat your Disco, cause your gauge cluster to go whacky like it's possessed with demons ..and a bunch of things like wear out your belt fast and wear out your alt pulley. I know because that's how mine was when I bought it ...from the P-O who couldn't figure out the problems, and you see posts on it quite a bit online. You want to get it routed correctly. Just follow the diagram link below and you'll be good.
http://www.fixya.com/fullimage.html?...es/0219580.gif

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info, i'll just replace them all at once and be done with it. Any idea what size tools i'll need for those things?

 

[QUOTE=Mark G;568641]It's a pretty straight-forward job, one of the easiest water pumps to change. I don't know if you really need any photos ...just look it over. The top of the fan shroud literally unsnaps, everything is pretty much right there where you can get at it.

Good Stuff Mark Thank You. Yeah, I'm replacing the lower hose and going to put in a new thermostat as well, changing to a 180deg. I replaced the fan clutch about a year ago maybe a little more. While I'm doing this the radiator is getting rod job so I should be all set for the upcoming Florida summer!

 

I don't know the bolt sizes, it's just regular hand tools. Most bolts used on L/R's in general fall into the 10, 13,14, 16-18 mm range. The fan clutch tool is something like 1 1/6" or 1 1/8", might be 1 1/4" ...just a guess. You don't need to to remove the fan clutch from the pulley if you just plan to replace the water pump (only if you plan to replace the fan clutch assembly)..

 

I did this work recently and have been meaning to post something so here it it. Great write-up my Mark G -- this is indeed a very straightforward job

I have a few tips that may help:
1. Siphon your radiator fluid out if you don't have an aftermarket radiator with a bottom drain to keep the spillage to a minimum.
2. This job is so much easier if you have a fan clutch pulley stop (metal bar with holes to stop the pulley from rotating when you are trying to remove the fan clutch or pulley nuts). You will need a 36mm wrench. You can use either a skinny adjustable wrench (I have one that goes to 40 mm that I bought at Ace hardware) or a 36 mm fan clutch wrench.
3. There are 10mm and 11mm bolts holding the water pump on. The 11mm bolts (3 of them) are the long ones. Radiator fluid can leak out through these if you don’t bolt them nice and tight or put a little RTV near the bolt heads to ensure a good seal. I put RTV on the upper one-third of the bolt and no leaks after 3 weeks.
4. Be very sure to completely remove the old gasket. Use your fingernail or a plastic knife so you don’t gouge or scrape the engine block.
5. Use deionized water (at your grocery store for $0.99 gallon) instead of tap water when you mix with radiator fluid.
6. Have fun

Cheers,

Gabe