Hey guys,

After doing a whole slew of major repairs on the truck, I got it back a few weeks ago. Everything was going great, no CE lights, changed the oil to Rotella 15w/40, greased the drive line, only 91 octane gas in the tank. Starts and runs no problems every time. This past weekend took it on a 500km expo/camping trip up north, ran absolutely amazing, got 19mpg.

Then, yesterday stopped off to pick up a pizza on my way home. Truck was warm, had driven 20 or so km. Let it sit off for like 10 minutes. When I started it back up it had a strange sort of roaring sound. Almost like the fans were on full blast, or the sound a diesel truck makes when it accelerates past you. Not super loud though, but enough. Though unsure what was up with it, I had to make it home at least and the pizza place is only 3 blocks away. I pulled out onto the street, engine got to about 2k rpm, sound went away. Haven't heard it since then. Restarted the engine last night and drove for another 20km or so no issues. Started the truck up this morning, Check engine light. I rang up my Rover mechanic guy and he had me look under the hood and spin the fan, could have been a belt slipping? The fan does spin freely, in a sort of viscous way if that makes sense? But no rough spots. The serp belt does look old though. I don't know what else could cause that kind of a sound, the revs didn't go up, nothing seemed out of the ordinary, all the fluids are the same and at their right levels. I'm taking it in on Tuesday to get the code scanned. I gotta drive it 120km round trip Saturday for a commitment I can't get out of, but after that ill let it sit until Tuesday.

Any ideas guys or things to check?

 

Get the codes from the CEL.


Where are you located? Any auto parts store should be able to read them for you...

My guess is your fan clutch locked up

 

Try this also. At cold engine start, see if you get that roaring noise. Could be the fan clutch engaging at max power, which it will do when cold, and again when hot. When coupled it moves more air and makes a "roar". After the siilicone inside is circulated (cold start) or temp at the middle of the front of the clutch drops below say 175F (fan moving cooler air that what was under hood, or driving bringing more cool fresh air in there), it will drop coupling to about 20% and noise goes away. At cold start mine draws so much air the electric fans for the AC condenser turn by themselves slowly. When cold, engine off, spin fan clutch and release, should go maybe a 1/4 turn, feel like peanut butter in there. When warm, engine off, repeat, should not turn more than 1 full turn after release, no "freewheeling". There is a write up in the tech section for a $50 Chevy fan clutch conversion. Can drive with no fan, as long as you keep up speed and don't idle for more than a minute or two. X2 on having parts store read codes, and write down the numbers, post back here.

 

I was under the impression that an OBDII reader will only tell you so much. The guy I take my truck to has the autologic or whatever handheld device that you get from Rover that tells you all the full data about the truck. But in any case, I will get those codes. I cold started it this morning, and there was no roaring sound or the like. When i try to spin the fan with the engine off, it bearly turns, feels like peanut butter exactly. I will try spinning it again when its warm, but it has never 'freewheeled' around. Would a stuck fan clutch cause a CEL? I will look at the 50$ chevy conversion.

 

No an OBD2 will be fine for figuring out what your code is. A bad fan clutch will not cause a check engine light. You may have two seperate issue but the CEL may be able to shed light on the noise. But without hearing the noise or knowing what the CEL is for it's going to be difficult to diagnose via the interweb

 

Yes, the clutch can stick, which would make the noise, but unlikely to make a code. On the D1 all the things associated with engine can be read with bone stock OBDII scanner, from a $35 bluetooth adapter and app, to a $70 Ultra Gauge, to bottom end code reading scanners. I like something that can read live data on the OBDII port. Autologic does it all.

You can slip off the serpantine belt and turn each part individually. Even run it for a short period, say 30 seconds.

 

Dont worry about the noise under the hood, it was your fan clutch being locked up.
You drove the truck, shut it off, the heat build up under the hood locked the fan clutch, the noise you heard, just like the noise you hear from a hot hard working diesel on a semi was your engine fan pulling huge amounts of air.

As for the check engine light, have the codes read.

 

Go get the codes read today so we can help with them, we need the fault code numbers.
As for the noise, you need to buy a new viscus clutch if it is hard to turn when cold, it is failing.