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I need to renovate the exterior of the truck. It's in three parts:
1. Roof
2. Inner hood (scoop)
3. Outer Hood, Sides and Back
The roof needs rust and patch work and sunroof and alpine renovation. I am going to do the same process as I did on the interior with the finish being a brush painted black or aluminum colored paint. I'm leaning back towards black. Despite the heat issues.
The inner hood or scoop I'm going to do in black "blackout" vinyl. It's too visible for me to try and paint it myself in any method.
The outer hood, sides and back I want to compound or wet sand. Any one have an opinion on this?
If I do either, do I need to add clearcoat or something? Do I do a black touch up on a scratch or two?
Any one have any step by step links? Any comments appreciated.
Your roof, if you compounded it, could rapidly go thru to the primer, which on mine is a sort of green color (I got the T shirt). Some of that 3M or the Meguier compounds and an electric buffer (90 degree) will work wonders. In your sun area, I think you might enjoy a white roof, or if we have turned you redneck by remote control, sand (tan) camo one color.
Just like your other projects, work slow and don't try to take off too much at one time. I used 1000 grit wet sand to get rid of some of the fuzzy white old clear coat.
I use Presta products when I cut and buff the cars I paint, they work great on restoring old finishes to. The whole kit with pads, chemicals and shaft adapter cost me $115 at CarQuest. It sounds like a lot but you wont get much from a single stage compound procedure, especially on a black vehicle. You really need a high speed buffer to get the best results but you can get by with a random orbit if you are patient and like to sweat. If it were mine I'd wash the whole car, lightly wetsand the problem areas with 1000 grit paper, follow it up with 1500 grit and then start the buffing process. Usually starts with cutting creme, then a "1500" polish, then a swirl remover followed by a hand glaze. Lots of work but I've made vehicles with far worse finishes than yours look spectacular.
If you want a quick result with minimal effort try the Turtle Wax Black Box kit. It's like $20 and though it hides more than it actually fixes, the end result is quite good. We used it on our black Disco and it surprised the crap out of me. I thought it was a joke but I was feeling lazy and gave it a shot before going through the resto process. Takes a lot of elbow grease and you'll go through a whole pile of cloths but it's cheaper and easier than an overall cut and buff. Ours looked like total garbage with scratches, scuffs and oxidation everywhere. It looked more gray or brown than black when we bought it. Here's what it looks like after the black box. Wish I had a before pic but I didnt think about it before cleaning the Disco.
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Dustin & Amanda - 1998 Land Rover Discovery
Last edited by s10lowrider1994; 01-11-2012 at 12:53 AM.
TR-3 its like magic. Its like a wax polishes restores . It'll even make flat rattle can paint glossy. Used it to make my 86chevy look new..and the hood and roof of my rover. Ill post pics when I get home
heres a before and after. its been a week and it still looks like the day I did it. my roof is faded out to gray, did a small test area back and its back to black..when the rain here clears up ill take before and after pics of the roof..
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1994 XJ12 V12 auto. 120k
1988 Range Rover Classic. sold
1996 Discovery 1. SOLD
1986 Chevy Custom Deluxe 10, 305, auto, 50k, everything stock original and working FOR SALE?
1992 BMW 318i convertible SOLD