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Yet anopther failed inspection story... (front axle questions inside)

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  #11  
Old 05-27-2015, 11:17 AM
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Pics while I research:
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2015, 05:59 AM
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Nice!!
 
  #13  
Old 06-02-2015, 11:24 AM
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*Update Time*

New (to me) hubs and swivels are on the way from FleaBay. If they are in decent order, they will go right on. If they are badly worn, they will serve as a base for the rebuild. That way, I can work on stuff without taking her off the road until install time.

Thanks again for the info, and I will keep y'all posted.

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  #14  
Old 06-11-2015, 09:53 PM
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*Secondary Update*

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I have a set of seemingly solid swivels and hubs in my possession. I have new gaskets for the axles and hubs, as well as a tube of fancy one-shot grease. I know I will have to open the brake system to swap the calipers.

What else am I getting myself in to here? Since I am sidestepping a front end rebuild for now, this should be a fairly straightforward swap, right?

...because it's never, ever straightforward.

Thanks again for the info so far everyone. I will post pictures of carnage, progress, and antics as I go.
 

Last edited by Doogwhan; 06-11-2015 at 09:57 PM. Reason: To make mention of my gratitude
  #15  
Old 06-12-2015, 05:08 AM
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Just clean it all up, check bearings and repack with grease, do the hub and swivel seals and grease the cv's.
Then once they are bolted on you can set the hub bearing pre-load and swivel pre-load.
 
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  #16  
Old 06-12-2015, 06:42 AM
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After doing mine, I noticed (now) that I get a little noise from the brake shield when going down the road and a slight right curve in the road. going to the left it is quiet.Re- checked the bearings and everything is tight, put a little more room between the shield and the rotor and it quieted down.
 
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Old 06-12-2015, 07:16 PM
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You should have a tube of grease for each side, The preload may be already set, if there were no problems with the truck they came off of. Worth double checking tho. Opening the brake lines is not too big of a deal Make sure you have a metric set of flare nut wrenches and you should be fine. Once you remove the calipers, split the brake line and remove it from the bracket, then re-attach it so all the brake fluid doesn't drain out while you work on the swivel *****.

Remember to pre-fit the gasket on the axle tubes before you start bolting it in lace, It is possible to have it on backwards and them the holes will not line up correctly. Axle bolts will not come off one at a time, you will need to loosen all of them, slide the axle out a but and then be able to remove the bolts. When installing the bolts, same thing. get them all in place maybe 3 or 4 turns and then tighten them down. otherwise you won't be able to get the wrench on and off.

Looks like you got the teflon coated *****, they should last longer than the chrome ones.
 

Last edited by jimvw57; 06-12-2015 at 07:18 PM.
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2015, 10:41 PM
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While you're doing the work, don't forget to slot the brake line bracket as linked to in post #3.
 
  #19  
Old 06-13-2015, 01:31 AM
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I thought about doing that, but I figured what are the chances of me having to do the swivel ball replacement again and decided not to bother. removing the brake line wasn't that big of a deal, and neither was bleeding the brakes.
 
  #20  
Old 06-13-2015, 03:38 AM
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Actually, rebuilding the hubs is a regular maintenance item, at least yearly if you off-road a lot, so you'll be doing it more often than you might think.
 
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