All,

I just got a parts Disco II super cheap. It is a 2003 outside of the bad VIN range. I plan to swap the engine and transmission into my 2000. The 03 has a blown head gasket on cylinder 6; no coolant leak; it pushes exhaust gas out of 6 but otherwise it runs fine. There are no codes or pending codes other than the misfire on 6 and the engine otherwise feels and sounds very tight. My 4.0 is ready for a major engine overhaul. My buddy needs a new y pipe and LT230 so it is a win win. The 03 also has a clean interior and some extra things like the hydraulic step, super clean carpet, the neat headlights, etc. That are easily transplanted. I have two weeks to get the 03 out of the driveway. 03 has no main seal leaks that I can see.

I can pull the engine and transmission and do a head gasket job pretty quick.

I have googled the swap and read varied responses. It looks to me as though the swap is very straightforward. But since this forum is so GOOD for good advice and my time is so short I have a few questions.

Do I need to swap any computers and if so, which? I am changing engine and transmission, so do I need to swap both ECU and transmission controller? Do I also need to swap the alarm, BCU and anything else?

I have a lockable CDL without the linkage. Will using the 03 transmission (but not transfer case) compromise my ability to hook up locking linkage?

If I swap the radio will it cause further problems with alarm?

Is the dash a direct swap to a 01 (buddy's rover)? Ditto for the carpet?

I don't have third row seats. The 03 has pristine third row seats with headrests. The headrest setup is obvious. The seats look like their channel should bolt to my cargo floor if the carpet is reconfigured a bit remove the cargo bins and take the plastic with seatbelt setup. Is that so?

The 03 has about 20k more miles than my 00 but has clearly never been used to tow... had an easy life. Should I save the hubs? Any reason to save the axles?

Is the alarm going to go nuts? I have no idea where my one remaining electronic key is. It has been missing for months.

I got it delivered yesterday and that's all I can think of now.

Thanks!

Charlie V

 

I should add that I have no service history on the 03 but it has not been trashed and came from Dallas where there is a dealership. It looks like the previous owner took care of it until the front bumper got bend on the side (plastic surely came off... metal bumper remains), a rock chip ran a crack across the window, and the HG blew out at #6.

I don't know the model but the seats are vinyl and it does not have armrests or sun/moon roof. Clear coat is toast on top. It runs and rides well even with 7 cylinders, fluids are good.

 

swap is straight forward. better bang for your buck is to swap computers too, but you don't have to. I would at least reset the adaptive values.
you are good to go with keeping your old tcase. the 24 is just a bit beefier to handle all that power
I would also keep hub, axles, diffs. couple of 5gl buckets doesn't take up much storage room.

 

another thing to consider is that while you have that thing out.....sure would be easy to replace bearings and seals....just a thought

 

Dusty,

While I was away I ordered a Reinz kit and stretch bolts. I hope I not screwing up with the bolts I read a lot about studs but I'm worried I won't get the torque just perfect.

I have front and rear seals in the garage.

I know I should replace everything on that engine but I'm sure I won't. I have a spare, new water pump and gaskets. But I don't have spare oil pump gears, a freshly polished crank, etc. Should I be concerned about the oil pump? I have run 15/40 rotella in ALL vehicles for years because I have a mix of diesels and gas engines and do my own changes.

I'd really planned to slap this engine in and take my 4.0 to the shop for new everything, then keep it as a spare or sell it. But I already have a 4.0 spare (not redone) and I'm looking like a greedy hoarder.

I'll Google resetting the adaptive values. Hopefully that doesn't require any expensive brain box that I don't already have.

Hey, this solves my three amigos too... I'll just swap the shuttle valve switch.

Just caught that you said bearings. You're talking about main bearings I suppose. I've never done that but I assume I just put it on the stand, flip it over, pull the crank, unscrew the old ones and put new ones in. I'm not much of an engine mechanic but if I am doing that should I take the crank to a shop to have it polished and change the piston rings? Do I need new rods? Eek... my slap it in theory was fantasy.

 

I actually bought some palllets to keep things on in my shop/garage. Plenty of room. I have taken years to find little plastic parts on ebay, console, Side mirror, etc. I've spend hundreds on that CRAP. This plastic doesn't match mine so when I get it all off I'm just going to offer it on the forum and ebay. Disco addicts have to stick together. The seats are also in perfect condition (all but driver) so maybe someone will want them.

I did a little write up on the main ball joint replacement somewhere here. It wasn't really difficult... go for it!

I should mention, I had this knock both before and after the ball joint replacement... just recalled that. Directed my thinking. Maybe bushings somewhere.

 

I think the mount points for the transfer case mounts are different, as the 4HP24 is slightly longer than the 4HP22.

 

well you do need a computer to reset values. I have the little nanocom and it will do it. (let me know) if you swap computers you need to swap in the matching instrument panel if you want mileage to work on the odometer.


sure you can just swap it in.....your call. but yes easy access to bearings (main and rod) I would have the crank looked at if I took it out.......again your call. you have a back up engine either way.
I would with out a doubt do the oil pump.
don't worry about the bolts or studs... they both work and you already have bolts. just follow the order and values

 

Okay I'll check that out. I have a shop about a mile away that can weld new mounts. EDIT: I've googled this and found no answer. They are both in the driveway so I'll just measure.

Speaking of mounts while I have the engine out... I have 2 year old engine and transmission mounts and they are in good shape. But mounts are cheap and I wonder if there is anything better. These seem very expensive: http://www.blacklistedengineering.com/blacklisted-engineering-products/d2-engine-mounts

 

I'm looking for rod and main bearing info and I am confused by the over and under sized main bearings. Is the size determined by measuring my crankshaft? I don't hear any slack right now (my 4.0 has sloppy slack in the bearings so I know what that sounds like).