Can you PM me the details?

 

You know, the 3 amigos are a strange breed. I did the B fix two years ago and never got another fault until one day when a large piece of rusted metal from the rear left brake shield got lodged between the hub and the shield near the sensor. I dislodged it and was fault free again for months. Just last week the right rear brake began to squeal in a strange way because the grease in the caliper slide pins had dried out, and believe it or not when I drove real slow with the caliper stuck it immediately caused the 3 amigos to reappear and also a fault code on the front right wheel on the EMS side. The fault was 4048 implausible rough road or something like that if I remember correctly. So I did a thorough inspection of all four wheels, replaced the grease on the slide pins with better grease and it has been trouble free since.

 

99 that I seem to have every issue with. Did the tranny and t-case replacement myself (what fun) over the winter and now going through they other issues I had prior. Grommets leaking under the res. were one of them as well as the 3 amigos.
While the Rover sat for a few months, while I did the above repairs , the res. emptied all over the wheel well. The Amigos , that used to come and go, are now on full time so while I had the res off I pulled the ABS out and did the B Option to NO avail. Since I don't have a scanner I thought what the hell as it looked pretty easy.
Anywho can someone tell me what the ohms are once you are wired into the harness? I have 3.1 prior to tying in . And what is the expected voltage at the harness with key On ? Just want to check my wiring. Thanks!

 

Does anyone know if there is another location that describes Josh's fix ???

This page: http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html no longer exists !!!!

HELP PLEASE !!

 

Ditto on that. Might have to unsticky this thing if not.

 

Archived ABS-Mod


I know that I am new, but I am looking to purchase a D2 in the future and I was researching common problems and this came up. I read the posts asking if anyone could find it. So there it is, minus most of the pictures. Perhaps someone can recreate it as most of the content is still there.

 

I was able to obtain the fix via cashed webpages...

It's a PDF doc. I tried uploading it to the site but it failed. If anyone needs it, PM me your email address and I will send it to you..

Todd

 

Link is showing dead. Is there another place i can find this write up?

 

Hello all. Let me first state that I am new to posting on forums - so I apologize if this is in the wrong place or something.


I have read a lot about the tres mates on this forum and others and I have not come across my problem and was wondering if anyone else has. I recently got a 99 DII I traded it straight for a Audi S4 not sure if this was my best or worst idea ever yet. I wanted to start off roading, any who. I went as just mentioned off roading and got stuck in a place that I felt like I should not of. Used the winch to get out and went on my way. There are no lights on the dash (they are all working during startup sequence) I noticed though that the TC light was not flashing when stuck and I felt like it was not working. The ABS was def. working. and HD seemed like it was (light on as should be). I ended up camping out there and went off roading again in the morning. Low and behold no issues at all, climbed trails like a billy goat. TC light flashing, HDC working perfect - now realize it was not working at all previous day. Everything is perfect! Then after an hour or so of driving everything stops working again. Still no dash lights. Everything works again when cold. So I figure that it must be a heat issue in the ABS module? My first thought was the SCV was not working I then found out about this fix as it had already been done - the resistance through the solinoids at relaxed pos is correct. The earth is good to the body. I removed the module itself and put another one on (of unknown condition) was the same problem. anyone seen this?


Summary if you cant be arsed reading above. TC works when cold when hot does not.


THis has made me think that I will put a electronic switch to mechanically lock the CDL ill use one of the unused buttons. has anyone done this yet? would anyone be interested in a kit/instructions if I do it? I am lucky in that I have the unattached spigot on Transfer case.


many thanks for any reply.

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20131103...m/abs-mod.html

From web archive pages. You can also access the entire website from here