Advice needed for adjusting replacement throttle cable
#1
Advice needed for adjusting replacement throttle cable
The old girl's been running well for awhile now until this afternoon when the throttle control cable snapped while i was cruising down a main road. Ordered a genuine replacement which will arrive Tuesday. I sourced a cable clamp and reconnected the ends of the cable together as a band-aide fix to get me by until Tuesday. I now understand how precise the cable tension needs to be in order to function properly. To loose and you will get no response from the accelerator pedal when you apply pressure. To tight and the engine will rev up the moment you start the engine. I fiddled around got the clamp in place but I cant accelerate past 12mph. Tried tightening a tad bit more only to experience the high revs described above.
So any tips or suggestions on the adjusting process for the replacement cable?
So any tips or suggestions on the adjusting process for the replacement cable?
#2
Move the u bolt as close to the throttle as I can. The reason it won't gon any faster is BC it is actually stopping at the metal part where the cable comes out. Just undo ur band aid and move it as close to the throttle body as possible and u should be able to get up to good hwy speeds until the new one comes in. With the truck off, have somebody push the petal and you will see it first hand under the hood.
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TRIARII (03-28-2017)
#3
Mine snapped on the highway driving uphill. Just wondered why I started to slowdown and my pedal was floored all the way. The only adjustment are the nuts on the cable. Replacing them is very easy but tight. Just remember the feeling how you removed the cable in front of the pedal. There is no way to see where its going from the firewall. Actually, I did it at night and dark.
Removal: Twist the plastic lock on the engine side to loosen. Reach the cable with locking (cylinder/shaft - whatever you call it) from the driver side and pull it out towards your right. Pull entire cable with housing out from the engine side. (Just remember the procedure by touch) your head won't fit to see what you're doing from down there.
Replace and adjust the tension from the nuts. 13mm if I remember. Cheers
Gerry
Removal: Twist the plastic lock on the engine side to loosen. Reach the cable with locking (cylinder/shaft - whatever you call it) from the driver side and pull it out towards your right. Pull entire cable with housing out from the engine side. (Just remember the procedure by touch) your head won't fit to see what you're doing from down there.
Replace and adjust the tension from the nuts. 13mm if I remember. Cheers
Gerry
#6
Thank you luckyjayb for the useful tip. I relocated the clamp to the driver side as much as possible then fitted a second clamp for piece of mind. Solved the problem and I was able to cruise along at highway speeds.
The band-aid fix held just fine until the new cable was delivered 4 days later. Installation was easy and what a world of difference. My old cable also slipped while the transmission was in park and as a result the rpms would rev up a bit as if I was applying pressure to the accelerator pedal. I adjusted the new cable visually to the way the old cable looked prior to the failure. That said the throttle response feels sportier now.
Today I fitted the new genuine cable. Installation was a breeze.
The band-aid fix held just fine until the new cable was delivered 4 days later. Installation was easy and what a world of difference. My old cable also slipped while the transmission was in park and as a result the rpms would rev up a bit as if I was applying pressure to the accelerator pedal. I adjusted the new cable visually to the way the old cable looked prior to the failure. That said the throttle response feels sportier now.
Today I fitted the new genuine cable. Installation was a breeze.
#8
I adjusted the accelerator cable accordingly. I did have to remove the cruise control cable from the bracket in order to get a wrench over the accelerator cable nuts, and put back in ppace the way I found it. Never use cruise control however and the idle appears normal again. The throttle pedal is more responsive than before the former cable failed. Thanks again for the tip.
#9
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