I've changed my CPS twice and I think I'm about to do it again. The first time it stranded me and I was towed to an independent Rover shop. This was 7 or 8 months after I bought the DII and they screwed me I'm pretty sure. Since then I've learned a lot. They replaced the starter and the CPS. In retrospect I bet it was just the CPS. In January or February of this year it stranded me about a mile from my house. I had it towed to my driveway. After a couple of hours it started just fine. I replaced the CPS and it's been fine until last week. Now it has stalled a couple of times at stop lights, but restarted just fine. Thursday last week it wouldn't start after driving a couple of miles. I waited and it restarted. Yesterday it wouldn't start and frustrated, I poked at the CPS connector with a long screw driver, got in and it started right up. During this time period it has had a couple of strong hesitations while driving accompanied by a very quick flash of the Service Engine Soon light, but with no recorded codes. This morning it did that and it went into limp home mode with the transmission mode lights flashing. That cleared after stopping and restarting. I did have an 1174 code but that went away after I discovered the oil filler cap wasn't on. I'd added a quart of oil and left the cap sitting on the under-hood fuse box. Aside from the 1174 code, could this all be from a CPS going bad or is there something more sinister going on? Thanks.

 

Good catch on the oil filler cap. Mine would have been GONE.

You are describing typical CPS issues except for the limp home mode and flashing SES... and no codes?

The only time I've had flashing SES and limp home I had a really bad battery. A shop replaced mmy transmission and it turned out that it was the BATTERY. I'm still pissed about that eight years later. I have also suffered the other symptoms you describe with, at various times, a bad cat (but I had codes), a bad MAF (but I had maddening codes) and a bad CPS (it just ran bad when it warmed up or wouldn't start). Hopefully someone sharper might chime in, but when they do they will want to know mileage, all recent work, and recent codes.

 

Thank you. Just to be perfectly clear, the SES light wasn't flashing on and off like it would if you had a misfire or similar code. It flashed once on very, very quickly and off again. It would do this with a sudden hesitation in the engine as if it were going to die, but didn't. It's run perfectly normal now for the last couple of days. I tend to think it's the CPS, but this one (from Advance Auto Parts) is only a few months old. My other CPS failures have been with deep snow in the winter. I figured getting snow packed up under the vehicle contributed to the CPS failure. I know that correlation doesn't equal causation, but just the same, it happened that way twice. Any one else?

 

I am on my second CPS in one year. Was replaced by the garage Last summer (car is only used in summer) this summer I had intermittent starting issues. Had to argue with garage that it could in fact be the CPS again. They replaced it again (under warranty) and has been running fine these last few weeks.

 

I had to find this post after you said in ExPo that you posted here.


It's interesting to me that Charlie_V had a similar incident this year with a quickly failed CPS. I know it is statistically improbable, but after seeing two encoder motors for my Dad's H2's transfer case being wired "backwards" while the third worked (after finally taking it to a GM $tealer), I'm starting to thing that aftermarket part quality control isn't what it used to be.


Isn't the CPS something like $65 or so? I guess the labor is the worst part of the job, but it might be worth looking at getting another one.

You said you've already got two. I'm assuming they are the same brand (maybe warranty replacement)? That was my dad's problem with the encoder. We went with the 3rd party because genuine GM was double the cost (even though everyone assured us they were made on the same assembly line).

If you want to rule out the CPS, I'd grab me a genuine CPS (if yours isn't) or third party (if yours is) and give it a try. IF the same symptoms return, I would assume the CPS is fine (and now I have an off-road spare) and start troubleshooting the fuel-delivery or air-delivery systems.

Good luck. Electrical diagnostics suck.

 

It's a Bosch part. They're $69.00 at Advance Auto Parts. The only difference between this one and the Land Rover part is the name on the box. Well, and the amount of money they cost. They're a royal pain to replace because of the location and the position of the connector. I suppose I'd rather do it in the driveway than on the side of the road somewhere. What really baffles me is the sudden hesitation, quick flash of the SES light, and switch to limp home mode. The only other time I've experienced limp home mode was when my battery died rather suddenly and I had to jump it.

I love this truck and really haven't had very many problems with it during the 55,000 miles I've had it although my wife thinks there have been more problems than I do. I have to admit that after this intermittent problem, I've been pricing 4x4 Ford F150s. I've told people I'm the terminal owner of this Land Rover. I just don't want to expire before it finally does.

 

I haven't been stranded, but have had a couple more incidents of very transient roughness and hesitation. Today I got a code, PO335 Crank Position Sensor A Circuit. I guess this means I should change out the CPS before it just quits. Does everyone concur?

 

the next time you think it is the CKSP plug an obdII scanner and see what the live rpm's read on the scanner.
0 rpm's = bad scanner anything else the ckps is probablly good

 

These CPS events are so transient that there is never anything to check. This is the first time it actually saved a code. Frankly I was relieved to have a code that indicated the CPS since that's what I've suspected all along.

 

Remove the inspection cover and check out the reluctor ring to make sure the tabs are all intact and not bent. also look close at the cps pin sticking out to make sure it is not bent or looks to have rubbed on something. I have seen this on a couple of posts recently.