I have a break problem, I don't know if this is related to my initial mistake of not correctly placing booster pin or not. The first time time I press the break pedal it goes to the floor with little resistance. Then after it functions normally. I've bled the breaks several times(both engine on and off) to make sure I don't have air in the system. Any thoughts on what this might be?

 

if you replaced the master you will need a way to activate the ABS in order to bleed the system

 

Well that sucks

 

Cheapest thing i have found to do that is the Autocom. It's less than $100 and works fantastic. Do a search on here and you will find the info.

 

you could try this it was sent to me by a member before i had my hawkeye.

I turned the ignition key to position 2, then removed the ABS relay from the under hood fuse/relay box. I checked the diagram on the side of the relay to see which terminals had power when the relay was energised. I believe they were terminals 3 and 5 (going from memory, so check your relay before trying).

I first just used a paperclip I bent into a horseshoe shape, but that got a bit hot to the touch, so I used two leads from my multimeter and aligator-clipped the ends together. As soon as you link both terminals together, the ABS activates.

Starting with the right front (per RAVE), I could see the glass jar filling with brake fluid from the hose coming from the bleed screw on the caliper as soon as the ABS kicked on.

Had I used some 20' of wire coming from the relay panel, I could have done all four wheels myself and not had to get help from the wife. I could have just joined the wires together from under the vehicle at each wheel when I loosed the bleeder.

 

you could try this it was sent to me by a member before i had my hawkeye. I WOULD SKIP THE PAPER CLIP STEP

I turned the ignition key to position 2, then removed the ABS relay from the under hood fuse/relay box. I checked the diagram on the side of the relay to see which terminals had power when the relay was energised. I believe they were terminals 3 and 5 (going from memory, so check your relay before trying).

I first just used a paperclip I bent into a horseshoe shape, but that got a bit hot to the touch, so I used two leads from my multimeter and aligator-clipped the ends together. As soon as you link both terminals together, the ABS activates.

Starting with the right front (per RAVE), I could see the glass jar filling with brake fluid from the hose coming from the bleed screw on the caliper as soon as the ABS kicked on.

Had I used some 20' of wire coming from the relay panel, I could have done all four wheels myself and not had to get help from the wife. I could have just joined the wires together from under the vehicle at each wheel when I loosed the bleeder.

LET USE KNOW HOW YOU MAKE OUT

 

Yes. Definitely do not recommend a bent paperclip, unless you are into body modification (paperclip melted into your fingertips).
I also now have the Autocom, but for the relay-jump method I would use two 20' lengths of 12 gauge wire and attach a 1/4" male spade terminal at one end of each wire length. Insert the spade terminals into the relay socket, and when you are ready to begin bleeding a wheel, touch the other ends of both wires together.
Fill a clear jar with enough clean brake fluid so the end of the tube running from the bleed screw is below the level of the fluid in the jar. Loosen the bleed screw, then touch the wires together. When you see no more air bubbles coming from the hose, tighten the bleed screw, and separate the wires to stop the ABS from pumping.

 

Hi Bud! Unfortunately, my pin/plunger/actuator whatever you want to call it came out with my BMC (fml). Can you walk me through how you fixed yours? Or did you need a new booster?

 

Took out my break master cylinder and then I noticed the rid in the break booster is not on the center. Is it broken or is there a way to center it again?;

 

How do you reattach it?