Yep follow that and you'll be good to go.

 

Jamieb and Best4x4

Thanks for the posts. Can I ask a couple more questions

1. Where are the phillips head screws holding the rotor in place in the picture?



How important is an impact driver to remove the screw?

2.The brake pad break-in procedure looks important. I am assuming you should do this on side streets that have no traffic or something.

How long does it take you guys to replace all 4 rotors and pads? From jacking up the car to completing the break-in process? 30 minutes each wheel or about 2 hours?

 

You'll see them when wheels removed.
......

 

Yep you will see them once the wheel is removed. If you want the job to go smoothly and quickly without any cursing I highly recommend the manual impact driver to remove the phillips head retaining screws.

With that tool, and rotors that aren't frozen into place I've been able to do the entire job in an hour from start to finish.

 

I see what you mean. In the picture, I cant see the screw hole that will secure the disc. I have seen some video that even without the philips screw, the disc can be installed since the lug nuts will hold the disc and the wheel together.

 

Yeah you can re-install without the phillips screw as the rim does hold the rotor flush, but if removed with the manual impact tool you can re-install them without messing up the head.

My 05 Jeep Wranglers just had cheap lock tab washers on a wheel stud to keep the rotor tight against the hub and they either rusted out or broke. I never re-installed them and it was okay, but I have no problems with the phillips head bolts on a P38/D2 so I just put em back myself.

 

True, I remember that when you buy a kit from AB, they include new set of those screws all the time. I guess the ebay stuff is compatible but no screw holes. Also, I have heard in the first few miles, the brake is not as effective yet since you have to go beyond the zinc plating. the price is very reasonable if its coated with zinc unlike the regular replacement you get from Autozone or Advance since the outer hubs get rusted fast and wont look as nice until you replace them again. Well, have not tried them yet and have no idea. The EBC, stayed black its entire life.

 

The Brake Motive/Power Stop Rotors do have the bolt hole for the phillips head screw. I'm 99% sure they use a default rotor/pad pic for all their Ebay Listings.

I've installed the Brake Motive/Power Stop stuff onto several D2's, Hummer H3, and a Hyundai and the rotor's were exactly to OEM spec.

So far the Zinc coatings are holding up well (I do not live in a region where they salt the roads however). It only took me the break in period and then after that I had great stopping power. Extremely quiet, and the dust is basically non existent (you will never have 100% dust free pads). When I ran a set of EBC Green Stuff pads on my OEM rotors the brake dust was insane!!!! It cleaned off better than the OEM brake pad dust, but my rims turned black quickly with the EBC Green Stuff pads.

I've had zero issues with any Brake Motive/Power Stop setup. Very good Ebay seller with quick order handling, shipping, and a great product. Buying the same stuff directly from Power Stop = double the price.

 

Thank you all very much for your replies.

As reference for others here's the link to the Atlantic British YouTube video:


For me, the two items I didn't have and needed to buy were:
1. Manual impact driver (to remove the philips screw securing the rotor)
2. C-Clamp (to push back the pistons)

The Brake Motive parts (front and back rotors and pads) only cost $207. The dealer wanted $1997 parts and labor! Assuming your time is worth $100 an hour and it takes you half a day to do this, you will save $1300 if DIY.

Thanks

Al