CAN'T PULL OUT HEATER RETURN PIPE TO REPLACE "O" RING and then some
#11
05-22-2016, 08:13 AM
Pro Wrench
I decided to get my hands dirty and replace the "O" ring in the "Heater return pipe", but I'm unable to pull it out of its place after removing the bolt that holds it; in the attempt, I broke off the "brake servo vacuum pipe" right at the inlet plenum.
Any clues on how to get the pipe out and temporary solution for the broken pipe, if any?
Any clues on how to get the pipe out and temporary solution for the broken pipe, if any?
That pipe has two bolts does it not? One on the intake and one at the bend.
#12
05-22-2016, 08:15 AM
Pro Wrench
...thanks NickAdams for your quick response! ...will WD40 work, or will PB Blaster make it easier, as per the "press fit collar" suggestion, I'll give it a try, hopefully both things are something I'll find at Home Depot, thanks again!
Job seemed pretty straight forward and relatively easy, but things have gone south proportionally! ;-]#
Job seemed pretty straight forward and relatively easy, but things have gone south proportionally! ;-]#
You are also missing the plug for the nipple directly under the brake booster hose. If you don't plug that hole, you will have a major vacuum leak.
Opps, stated already
Last edited by shanechevelle; 05-22-2016 at 08:18 AM.
#13
05-22-2016, 08:28 AM
When I broke the brake servo vac line and the red collar I used a vinyl grommet from Radio Shack to seal it up. I happened to have a bag of them in different sizes lying around. I carefully cut off one side of the grommet, slipped it over the end of the nylon pipe, and inserted it into the fitting. Worked like a charm for a couple of years until I got a new red collar from a boneyard truck.
Once you get the heater return pipe out be careful reinstalling it with the new O-ring. I buggered two O-rings. On the third attempt I lubed it and it went together easily. Doesn't much matter what you lube it with --- motor oil, Vaseline, butter ...
And mollusc is right; there should be a cap on that other vacuum port. If left open you'll likely get P0171 and P0174 codes.
Once you get the heater return pipe out be careful reinstalling it with the new O-ring. I buggered two O-rings. On the third attempt I lubed it and it went together easily. Doesn't much matter what you lube it with --- motor oil, Vaseline, butter ...
And mollusc is right; there should be a cap on that other vacuum port. If left open you'll likely get P0171 and P0174 codes.
#14
05-22-2016, 12:13 PM
#15
05-22-2016, 12:54 PM
Pipe Fasteners
O RING HEATER PIPE DISCOVERY II, 38A R/R, RND354, ERR6434 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
......
#16
05-22-2016, 01:01 PM
...yup, those two were the first out, rubber hose disconnected, got it to move out like a 16th of an inch, and nothing more from there, left it soaking in PB Blaster overnight, but no luck! ...so I'm between a rock and a hard place here! ;-]#
#17
05-22-2016, 01:06 PM
When I broke the brake servo vac line and the red collar I used a vinyl grommet from Radio Shack to seal it up. I happened to have a bag of them in different sizes lying around. I carefully cut off one side of the grommet, slipped it over the end of the nylon pipe, and inserted it into the fitting. Worked like a charm for a couple of years until I got a new red collar from a boneyard truck.
Once you get the heater return pipe out be careful reinstalling it with the new O-ring. I buggered two O-rings. On the third attempt I lubed it and it went together easily. Doesn't much matter what you lube it with --- motor oil, Vaseline, butter ...
And mollusc is right; there should be a cap on that other vacuum port. If left open you'll likely get P0171 and P0174 codes.
Once you get the heater return pipe out be careful reinstalling it with the new O-ring. I buggered two O-rings. On the third attempt I lubed it and it went together easily. Doesn't much matter what you lube it with --- motor oil, Vaseline, butter ...
And mollusc is right; there should be a cap on that other vacuum port. If left open you'll likely get P0171 and P0174 codes.
#18
05-22-2016, 08:13 PM
...someone suggested that the housing at the end of the tube, the one that gets bolted into the engine gets removed, and below/inside that there was a "cir-clip" to release, does it make any sense?
...btw, since unable to remove the heater pipe, and looking at my Landy being put out of commission for this upcoming week, I decided to start changing the valve cover gaskets, got the first off -caught my attention that the bolts weren't tight at all, anyways take a look how it looks as soon as they came off!
...btw, since unable to remove the heater pipe, and looking at my Landy being put out of commission for this upcoming week, I decided to start changing the valve cover gaskets, got the first off -caught my attention that the bolts weren't tight at all, anyways take a look how it looks as soon as they came off!
#20
05-22-2016, 09:25 PM
...what did you use to pry it with, I'm pretty sure I'll have to replace it afterwards, it's pretty banged up! ...I just can't get it to move any further, the damn thing seems solded to the engine!
