129k 2003 DII, was driving it in the rain very briefly and pulled into my driveway. Right before I turned car off, oil idiot light came on the dash. Turned car off and tried to restart it. Engine cranked and started for about 5 seconds then died. Came back 2 hours later, restarted it and oil light was gone entirely... engine was on again with no issues...? Is this sign of a bad oil pump? Oil is definitely leaking under the car, pretty much everything is (lol) and I haven't driven it very much at all since I got it (a few weeks ago)... anyone know what the issue could be?

I have an ultragauge coming friday, and a 3/8-24 nut that is going onto one of the bolts on my front drive-shaft (apparently the last owner didn't know about) and it's causing the whole front end to shake.

 

Did you check the oil level? Assuming you did but that light will come on if there isn't enough oil to build pressure. Otherwise you could be having the early signs of a bad CPS... Not related to the oil light but those are the symptoms.

 

True story: Years ago I parked my Rover in the driveway near a sprinkler head. Went out to start it up and it wouldn't start. A few minutes later, I gave it a little hell, put my foot on the gas pedal, heard something go 'bang!' and had a big black cloud of exhaust come out the tail pipe. I was fairly naive to Rover idiosyncrasies and proceeded to cry (seriously), went into the house, took a nap for an hour or so and then went back out to the Rover. Tried starting her again, it was a little rough but turned over fine, then started running like nothing ever happened.

Sometimes water can do strange things. Hopefully that is all it was. As far as the oil leaks - leaking valve cover gaskets are typically the culprit, although power steering leaks, etc. are common too.

Welcome to the forum!!

Christina

 

2 weeks ago I changed the oil with 5w30. car had been sitting in intervals for multiple years before that. was under the car today and noticed the coolant is leaking (not surprising...smh), and transmission maybe also?

anyways funny story, the other day I drove the car to autozone to get the "idiot light" codes off and got:
p0171 - system too lean (bank 1)
p0150 - o2 circuit (bank 2, sensor 1)
p0130 - o2 circuit (bank 1, sensor 1)
p0174 - system too lean (bank 2)
p1171 - system too lean bank a &b
p1174 - lambda control adaption fault bank 2.Last occurrence - maximum signal
p0159 - o2 circuit slow response (bank 2, sensor 2)

so could any of these codes have something to do with this? about 20 mins ago I started the car up, rough idle revving about ~500-1000k when in park and 300-500 in drive stopped. felt like the engine was going to die when i was going down the hill at some point and engine started making a "whiny" noise when i accelerated... is this sign of a bad CPS? or oil pump? or both? ALSO lights in the car on dash were flickering... and I mean I just find it hard to believe the oil pump is gone at 129k, usually those were fixed wayyyy before 100k if im reading correctly?

also as i said car is leaking fluids, maybe trans fluid too? idk i gotta go under the car tomorrow when it isn't raining. but does any of this ring a bell?

thanks by the way

 

thanks for the response! and thank you!

these are weird very delicate cars sometimes (surprisingly not when offroading :/) but anyways i posted a list of codes I pulled from an obd2 scanner at autozone the other day above (if any of that is familiar to the oil pump)

thanks!

 

Change out the CPS, iti is a pain in the *** because of the connector,but when it dies that is it you are going no where until you replace it. Get a bosch unit about 45.00 and pop it in.

5/30 may just be too light for your engine, most run 15/40 10/30 10/40, it could also just be the sensor or sensor wiring, start there make sure it is clean in good condition and securely plugged in
These trucks run a gear based oil pump, the gears can crack or the running surface can get damaged resulting in low oil pressure.

All the stuff below is O2 sensor/ Fuel related start with the 02 sensors

p0171 - system too lean (bank 1)
p0150 - o2 circuit (bank 2, sensor 1)
p0130 - o2 circuit (bank 1, sensor 1)
p0174 - system too lean (bank 2)
p1171 - system too lean bank a &b
p1174 - lambda control adaption fault bank 2.Last occurrence - maximum signal
p0159 - o2 circuit slow response (bank 2, sensor 2)

 

The oil pump on these is never "fixed" it is a regular maintenance item with a life span just like any other part.

I agree the oil is to thin. 15w30 Rotella is the go to oil for these. I would change out the oil and see if the oil light stops coming on.

Sounds like you have multiple issues going on. The oil pump or the CPS will not make the CEL flash.

Flashing Check Engine Light is usually a misfire.

 

it is a good idea to replace your oil pump, my 03 i had a broken oil sensor wire grounding itself but before i found that my idle oil pressure was low, not enough to trigger the light, had the pump replaced $1600 cdn for a shop to do it with new oil pump and timing cover its a good piece of mind thing to do, if you plan on keeping it

 

sorry i might have been cnfusing, the CEL wasnt flashing. the oil light came on as i turned the car off. then when i put it onto accessory mode it comes up now. it goes away once the car cranks.

 

as noted earlier, the 5w30 is probably too thin unless you are in the Arctic. most run a 15w40 oil. i prefer synthetic. others do not. a good name brand, high detergent oil would probably be best for the first several oil changes.

the lights on the dash flickering could be caused by the low idle not allowing your alternator to charge properly. then again if the lights were flickering at normal RPMs, you may want to get your alternator and battery tested. low voltage caused by either a bad alternator or bad battery can wreck havoc on the electronics/electric on these trucks and can even cause it to throw codes unrelated to the alternator and battery.

i don't remember if it's been mentioned, but get an UltraGauge or similar to monitor real-time engine coolant temps, etc..