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D2 Transfer Case High to Low Solenoid Removal - Too Many Obstacles

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  #1  
Old 05-24-2015, 08:08 PM
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Default D2 Transfer Case High to Low Solenoid Removal - Update

Trying to remove the High-N-Low transfer box solenoid seems to be impossible. There are a slew of wires, tubing, and electrical connections surrounding the already-hard-access solenoid. Any advice? See picture. This is a 99 D2 with diff lock installed.
 
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Last edited by gmad; 05-27-2015 at 12:00 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:00 PM
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Why do you want to remove it? What are you using to engage the diff lock?
 
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mln01
Why do you want to remove it? What are you using to engage the diff lock?
The vehicle won't shift from High to Low (well not very consistently). Reading through the forums, it sounds like that is the common culprit.

The TC has the D1 linkage for the diff lock - which works fine.
 
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Old 05-24-2015, 11:16 PM
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I had to pull mine. If I remember correctly swearing is involved...
 
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Old 05-25-2015, 06:38 AM
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The easiest method is to drill out the rivets holding the shifter and lock lever assembly to the floor, and to do it from above. It's a long process, but it is the easiest way in my opinion, bacause you see what you are doing and have room to maneuver.
 
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Lowest Bidder
The easiest method is to drill out the rivets holding the shifter and lock lever assembly to the floor, and to do it from above. It's a long process, but it is the easiest way in my opinion, bacause you see what you are doing and have room to maneuver.
Luckily, who ever added the diff lock replaced the rivets with screws. I have removed that plate, but it just seems like it is impossible to access the solenoid cover with all the wire harnesses and cabling in the way.
 
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:11 AM
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Holy cow. I got the solenoid out. Every post about this being a PITA job is spot on. After removal (haven't put things back together), I did some bench testing of the solenoid. It would not retract with 12 volts, but it would hold a retracted position when depressing it. Pretty certain this was the point of failure.

For what it's worth, I removed the electrical board (and the D2 high/low shifter-cable plate) for better access. The two driver's side bolts were accessed from above. The two passenger side bolts were from below.

I'm hoping I didn't knock anything unintended loose in the process.
 
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