Nice pictures!

I've never heard of a flywheel lock.

 

I can get the measurements for you. Let me check it out.

 

Thanks, Conrad.

 

The hardest part to find for a Bosch manual trans is the flywheel. But it's pretty easy to find. Lay down the cash and buy one from the UK.

Part number PSD103340


It came in a cool wooden box wrapped in wax paper.


Clutch side. A standard 10.5 inch Discovery 1 clutch fits.


The engine side of the flywheel. Here's the big difference between a GEMS and Bosch flywheels. It's the groove in the back for the crank speed sensor.

 

The next part of the project was to work on the pedals as I order more parts. I ordered new clutch master and slave cylinders. I have the old ones but figured I'd go with rebuilt parts.

I first removed the brake booster.


The brake booster is held in with 2 nuts and are hooked onto the pedal with a little clip. pretty easy to remove.


I didn't want to remove the brake master. So I carefully bent the metal lines up to clear the booster.


Mark and remove the steering knuckle. You'll need a special star socket.


Loosen this star bolt on the steering shaft. it'll let the rod slide down to get off the knuckle in the previous picture.


Remove the bolts holding in the pedal assembly.


This is a major tight squeeze. Take your time and remove the pedal box. Here's the box removed.

 

Here are the D1 pedal box and the D2 pedal box. The parts are not the same!!!! The throttle cable attaches different and the brake booster. BUT!!! The pedal hanger is the same!! So I took apart both pedal boxes and added the clutch pedal to the D2 auto pedal box.



Clutch pedal difference.


Throttle cable difference. D2 on right. D1 on left.


Brake pedal difference. D2 on top. D1 on bottom.


D1 manual brake pedal on left. D2 auto brake pedal on right.


I cut down the D2 auto brake pedal to match the D1 brake pedal.


All pieces and parts I used to make the manual pedal box. The modfied auto brake pedal. The D1 clutch pedal. Spacers, bushings, springs and pedal box housing from the D2 original.


Here is the D2 pedal box back together with the D1 clutch pedal.

 

Next was drilling holes for the clutch master cylinder. I bought 1 1/4 inch hole saw from the local hardware store. I measured the clutch master hole location on the D1 pedal box. The hole is center in the box horizontally. About an 1 1/2 inches from the edge. I made the hole saw hole. Put in the clutch master and marked the mounting holes. I used a 3/8 inch drill to give me some play for the M8 bolts I used with nylon lock nuts. The bolts were 1 inch long.

Here are the holes. The holes line right up with the clutch pedal is.


I test fit the clutch master. I used another M8 bolt to attache the master to the pedal. Put a little grease on and it worked perfect! I didn't like the return on the clutch pedal. The D1 has a nice return spring but the D2 doesn't have the same "notch" for the spring. So I bought a spring and used the notch on the pedal with a bolt and 2 lock nuts to hold the spring and wrapped the other side around the pedal box.


Now to put the pedal box back in. You may think it was hard getting the pedals out. Now try to put it in with 3 pedals!!! Ahhh!!! It'll make it in just be patient.


Installation is the opposite of removal. ha ha!! I always wanted to say that!! I did have to get the wife to help install the clutch master. I was under the dash holding the bolts while she installed the nuts.


Now the fruits of your labor. Ain't that clutch pedal a beautiful thing!!

 

I switched the transfer case from the autobox to the R380 manual trans.

Transfer case disconnected from the autobox.


2004 transfer box.


Here is the sweet R380 trans!! Oh yeah!! I hope it works!!


About to be bolted together. I used furniture dollies to help move all the heavy pieces around.


I tried putting the transfer case and R380 together. This little bugger of a dowel was the problem. The manual trans and transfer case had the dowel in the same place. I didn't notice it until I couldn't get them together. So make sure at least one of the dowels are taken out. ha ha!!


Here are the 2 parts bolted together. They fit perfect!

 

I measured the bell housing moutning bolt hole size. The R380 has .400 dia holes. The autobox has .440 diameter holes. Just so there isn't anything weird happening. I drilled out the R380 bellhousing holes .04 larger. It's only a small amount of metal. So I figured what the heck!!

Here are some bellhousing comparision pictures. I found these to be very interesting.
Autobox


D1 R380


If you look closely at the 2 above pictures. The locating dowels are at the same location. The hole sizes are different. The 2 bottom holes on each bell housing are very different. The D1 housing has 2 threaded holes and the D2 housing has 2 thru holes used to hold the trans in.

So I drilled out all the main outer holes of the D1 housing to match the D2 autobox housing. Even the 2 bottom threaded holes.


I did leave the 4 threaded holes alone on the D1 R380 bell housing. The D2 auto housing has 4 larger bolts. But since these threaded holes are not the for strength or hold the trans in. I'll use some smaller bolts with washers. Also in the picture is the drilled out holes. Only a little bit of material was taken off.

 

Since every single post I've seen about this conversion says the D1 bell housing will not fit in a D2. I figured I'd do a test fit. Plus I seemed to have an issue with trans mounts. The D1 mounts are really different and I don't want to drill the frame or weld on plates and brackets.

I want to re-use the D2 brackets on the frame. Here is the autobox mount on the bracket.


Here is the transfer case mount on. This one won't change since I'm using the same trasnfer case.


I got the big bad bugger in!! It slide right in without any problems. Bolted it all up. I didn't have the clutch or flywheel at this point. I wanted to test fit the R380 and trasnfer case becuase if they don't fit and I can't figure out a trans mount the project is done.


The trans is resting on the transfer case support. You can see the R380 and bell-housing moves the whole assembly forward a 1/4 inch or so.


Here is the D1 trans mount hanger attached. You can see the problem.


I found a solution. I cut a slot in the D1 metal mount for the D2 trans rubber support. It's a real tight squeeze!! I had to jack up the trans real high. Put on the metal mount and put on the rubber mount. Put the bolts and nuts on loose. Then lower the trans down onto the D2 rubber mount while the D2 bolt slide into the slot of the D1 metal mount. I'm not 100% happy with it but it's a solution. Everything bolted down tight. It works so let the work continue!!