Ok here is a list of all the things I inherited when I inherited my 2000 Discovery 2. The passenger seat z motion does not work. Rear sunroof does not work. Drivers door electric door lock does not work. Three amigos (I live near Toronto and it is cold out, so I will deal with them in the spring). Super brittle coolant lines have all snapped as well as the nipple for the bleed line on the radiator (parts are ordered and on the way). slow coolant leak somewhere (see it is cold out comment). The sport/manual mode button does not work at all and since I ran the battery low trying to start it in the cold, it appears to be stuck in sport mode. There is a very strange high pitch squeal/whine from the front of the engine intermittently and only when it is cold. Recently the headlight washers stopped working. The roof leaks in the front driver side corner but I suspect it is the leak off lines from the sunroof (again, it is damned cold outside). I also have the service engine light on for the evap valve P0440. That is all I can think of for now. The list is long and distinguished, and every time I try to find an answer the thread seems to wander off into the weeds with guys fondly remembering there '72 malibu. If you know the answers to these problems kindly post the answer or send me an email. I will endeavor to post the answers so others can find them more easily. Thanks a bunch to all who answer. PS if you are interested in cycling ask me about my trip to France this coming summer to support the Wounded Warrior Fund (but not in this thread please lol)

 

Check switch and motor. Could also be the ECU.

Replace actuator.

Check battery and make sure it's 100% Strange electrical gremlins creep up when battery is weak.

Check belt/tensioner/power steering fluid.

Lines frozen? Don't know how cold it is there.

More than likely, drain line is plugged. (common problem)

Check/replace gas cap. Purge control valve may have failed too

72 Malibu? I fondly remember my 88 Renault Medallion.....

 

Sport mode - I've been having problems with that also. It quit working completely, so I replaced the switch with a used one from a junker. Initially it still didn't work, then after a few minutes it started working and has worked for a couple of months now. Weird.

Belt squeal - I have had weird problems with belt squeal for a few months now. I tried a different belt, and the noise went away. I replaced both idlers and the tensioner. But then it came back. I tried thoroughly cleaning the belt and pulleys, and I also tried a bit of silicone lubricant. Finally somehow I got it to where it makes a bit of noise til it's warm, then quiets down. That said, you should replace the idlers and tensioner. I had an idler fail with no warning and leave me stranded not long ago.

Headlight washers - I had a rubber elbow break in half and dump out washer fluid before it made it to the headlights. I replaced it with a length of hose that was long enough not to kink.

Coolant leak - this one is troubling. It could easily just be a standard leak from a hose or clamp, but on these trucks it can also mean blown head gasket. I understand that it's cold, so at least keep a VERY close eye on your coolant level. You should check it every morning, and probly every afternoon if you drive it to work and it sits all day. You should also get an ultragauge which will give you accurate temp readings because the idiot gauge in the dash points at the dead center of the gauge until the truck is seriously overheating (i.e. it's is a completely useless gauge). Eventually you need to get in there with a flashlight and track down the leak, and sooner is better than later.

It's pretty common for these trucks to be basket cases when we get them. There's a theory that the first owners are often soccer moms who don't take care of them, and then we get them and have to solve all the minor issues that arise from neglect.

 

Thanks for the replies. It pretty much confirms some of the things I was suspecting. I just wanted to know if there was something obvious I missed. The cold stretch here has been brutal and cold. I was -25C on Friday but it has armed up to -2C today. I don't think the headlight washers would have frozen and at the very least it should have thawed by now. I already replace the gas cap so I will try the evap valve next. I have a new rad, throttle body coolant line, bleed line and reservoir cap on the way. BTW what is the deal with the wiper blades on this car? Are they really that different than anyone else's? Do you have to buy special blades for it?

 

COLD I was pulling parts of a donor D2 in Sundridge (south of North Bay) the other day -35c

I had the strange squeel I thought was a belt. Turned out it was the clutch fan.

for the 3 amigos you need a ABS capable scanner (find a friend with one)

the front wiper arms take a standard replacement blade

the rear is a different story. You can replace the rubber. I just picked up a D1 rear arm to eliminate the propitiatory rear blade.

 

So on my way home from work, I smelled coolant and the belt started squealing. Pulled off immediately, to find the upper rad hose popped off the thermostat. Fortunately it was right across from an auto parts store so I could fill er back up after I repaired the hose. I swear this car hates me, I think it was flashing "go to hell" with the SES light in morse code!!!!!

 

Hopefully that explains your coolant leak!

There's worse places to break down than right next to a parts shop.

 

Aint that the truth. anyone know if you can remove the rad without breaking the oil cooler lines? The RAVE manual says you have to take half the engine out to do it. I am willing to bet you can leave the shroud and fan on ... breaking the cooler lines sounds like a chore .... and more fluid to replace in a vehicle with no transmission dipstick!!!! Any ideas would be appreciated. as I said before I will keep updates coming when I have any progress to report on. UPS showed up today with the new rad and the plastic cooling lines, new reservoir tank and the little rubber bit from the fuel door. all in it was $450 to the front door.

 

I haven't pulled the radiator, but this post is informative:

Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum - View Single Post - Any tips on removing and replacing radiator?

From this thread:

Any tips on removing and replacing radiator? - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Also this thread:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...uestion-58055/

 

Ok. So not that I am a coward I just hate being cold!!! I took the disco to a decent rad shop and paid them to shove in the new rad and stat. I feel it was $400 bucks well spent to not have to be chilly. I know I suck for that but what can you do. They told me that it held cooling system pressure overnight so they tested the coolant and to no great surprise the detected combustion product. So a head gasket set it is. Talking to my neighbor who is a Toyota mechanic, he suggested "head gasket fix" to tide me over to warmer weather. Does anyone have experience with that? Also .... any experience with doing gaskets on this engine? I have done pushrod and OHV gaskets, but any specific experience to the 4.0 V8 would help. I figure the exhaust manifolds will be the hardest part. When the weather is better I plan on getting the gasket kit and having the heads rebuilt. Also, warmer weather will bring the repairs to the sport mode switch, sunroof and headliner. Along with others, I hope that will bring the "free" rover to a state of reliability and years of enjoyment. I can't tell you how much I have appreciated the help and advice I have received but today has been an arduous journey in self control. The Landy remains untouched by gasoline and fire!!!!!!!!