Nice to see they managed to work that electrical problem out that was keeping your light on free of charge...

Keep an ear/eye out...with all those codes for so long, you might have some messed up valves or rockers or something exciting. I wouldn't be suprised if you've got more repairs coming up in the near future...but hopefully not.

Also does the print out tell you what kind of brakes he used, and brands on the plugs/wires and what not? LRs can be really picky...

 

Ok, here we go again. Picked up the damn car, drove it home (3 miles), had to go out again, and as soon as I started driving it the light came on! Can you freaking believe this crap? I took it back as they were closing, he did that code thing and he said it was a Catalytic Evap (i think) code. Well, I said, what the hell should we do now? He told me to drive it for a few days (!!!!) because the catalytic converter needed to get air into it since it had so much fuel in it since the whole fuel pump and plugs were messed up. Does he know what he is talking about? I am afraid to drive it, but I have to drive tomorrow about 50 miles. Help! Thanks!

 

Your mechanic is right on this one. First check your gas cap, make sure that it is tight.
Then drive it for a week. Yu have "shocked" the computer by fixing everything that was wrong.
It was running wrong for so long that the computer is confused. And only driving it will allow it to reset its self.
Make sure that you are using premium gas (you know that it requires premium?), drive it as normal.
It will reset its self.
If after a week the light doesnt go off have him turn it off for you and the see if it comes back on.
Keep us posted.

 

You rock! I always use premium and change the oil every 3000 miles.One thing Inoticed today when they changed the oil and put that cute reminder sticker on my windshield, is that the sticker says new oil change at 170K, but that is more than3000 miles, more like 5000 miles.What do you think?Thanks for your advice and I will drive it for a while and see what happens. Thanks so much....

 

Well it depends on what kind of oil they used. If the used dino oil then go every 3,000 miles. If they used full synthetic then every 5,000.
You dont have to go by the sticker in the window. You have 167K? on your truck? Change it at 170K and have them use full synthetic next time and then the next oil change will be at 175,000. And then 180, 185, you get the idea.
I change my own oil and I use Mobil 1. I change it everytime there is a "5" or a "0" third place from the left. I do not worry about the 100's, just the "5" or the "0". It is very easy to remember and doesnt require a sticker.
You do not have to use full synthetic motor oil. Just keep changing it every 3,000 miles an dont worry about it. They may have made a mistake on the sticker too.
It is just a truck. Take care of it and it waill take care of you.
It can be fixed, it can be replaced.

 

I have 164k and some change...I always use some sort of synthetic that I get when I go to the Valvoline place. Have been going there for years. Don't know what they used today, it just says "bulk oil" and it was 8.27, and the whole oil change was 14.05. The Valvoline place charges me about 50 for a change, but they are so convenient and I don't have to get out of the car with 2 screaming children. This car needs to last me a few more months and then I am getting something else, maybe an LR3 or a Volvo XC90. Not sure. This Rover will become my husband's hunting vehicle, probably will be driven less than a few thousand miles a year.We have had a good run, but it's time for me to get something a little newer to drive the kids around. Once again, thank you so much for all of your tips. You are a nice man.

 

They used dino oil today. "Bulk oil" is pumped from a tanker truck into a holding tank in the back of the shop. It is the cheapest way to buy motor oil. Not saying it is bad, just the cheapest way to go.
Full synthetic will come from a bottle. They dont sell enough of it to warrent buying in bulk.
Here is a tip for you, when you get your oil changed next time ask them for the empty oil bottles. Take them home. Stick a small funnel inside one of the "empty" bottles and turn another bottle upside down in the funnel. Let it drain over night. Do this with the rest of the bottles. When you are done you will have almost a full quart of oil. And just think, they were going to throw it into a landfill!
Now you have a free quart (well its not free, you did pay for it) to use for topping off and such. Save enough of them and you will have a free oil change.
Shhh, dont tell my wife that I'm nice, she doesnt know.
Glad I could help.

 

Hi, just one more question. I took it back today and had him read the codes because I am freaked out about the engine light....It read "Manufactured Control Fuel and Air Metering". he wasn't sure what that was, so I left and now the engine light is out. Any thoughts? thanks!

 

That is your MAF (mass air flow)sensor. He cleaned it. You cannot clean a MAF on a DII, it will be ruined. You might be ok for now, but he definetly shorted its life.
The MAF tells the computer how much air and the temp of the air that the engine is getting.
Then using those readings and the readings from your oxygen sensors and the gear your in, engine speed, engine temp, and the list goes on and on the computer gives the engine the correct amount of fuel for the job.
there are ALOT of variables and if one or more thing is out of wack it screws everything up.
But to answer your question, it is a MAF fault. Dont worry about it until it comes back.

 

Could someone explain how 8.5 mm Magnecor wires are different and better than the run of the mill $49.99 wires for D2? Do they fit in the stock wire looms?