Engine removal tips
#1
07-08-2013, 12:12 PM
Engine removal tips
I just finished removing the engine from my '04 DII. Following RAVE all along, a few of the steps were challenging to conquer. I'd like to thank all the people who post on this forum...it was very helpful to search for old threads covering topics that I needed help with.
This is my advice on the steps held me up here and there-
-When removing the oil hoses that lead to the radiator, don't rely on the plastic release tabs that are present. Slide the release tabs out of the way and use one of the release tools available for under $10 at all of the auto parts stores (they are also the same release mechanism used on some fuel lines). Prop the radiator up higher to allow easier access.
-The illustration in RAVE of releasing the wiring harness from inside the vehicle (under the dashboard) confused me for a few moments. The access is on the passenger side; RAVE used an illustration of a right hand drive vehicle, it makes it appear as though the wiring connections are next to the gas pedal...
-Removing the 8 bolts on the front cross member was a super PITA. Baby them at first to avoid rounding the small 10mm heads. I soaked them in PB Blaster to little avail. I ended up grinding the heads off of half of the with a dremel tool wheel (the only thing small enough to access the recessed area).
-There are 14 bolts that hold the transmission bell housing to the engine block. I found that only 8 of them were accessible before the engine mounts were removed and the engine was lowered. Each of the bolts from the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position and up were easier to access from above with the engine lowered. Each bolt was a challenge in and of itself, I found a flex head ratcheting box wrench to be helpful on some of them. Don't be fooled by the third bolt down on the driver side; there is a bolt holding the exhaust sensor wiring right next to it and of the same head size...I removed that one and left it hanging on the bracket, and then couldn't figure out why the engine wouldn't separate from the bell housing.
-I waited to disconnect the exhaust sensor wiring multiplugs until the engine was lowered; it made for easier access.
-Did I miss the step for disconnecting the grounding cable at the back of the engine (drivers side)? Anyway, I broke the cable when I lowered the engine.
-The exhaust sensor multiplugs behind the cats are hard to access. Use a flashlight and get a good look at what you need to do before you blindly reach up there.
-The RAVE did not discuss how to unthread all of the behind cat exhaust wiring. After disconnecting the passenger side rear mulitplug, the wiring needs to be pulled back over to the drivers side (the wire runs over the drive train). And then, to allow this wiring to come out with the engine, the wire needs to be released a two points along the transmission (one point is a nylon tie that needs to be cut, and the other is a snap fitting that needs to be pushed up from below). Use a flashlight to get a good look at these attachments. You can then pull the wiring in to the engine bay, and pile it on top of the engine with all of the previously released wiring. Alternatively, I read posts where people resorted to cutting the wires (and soldering during re-installation), or to disconnecting all of the engine wiring harness from the engine and leaving it in the bay, both would have been more time consuming in the long run.
This is my advice on the steps held me up here and there-
-When removing the oil hoses that lead to the radiator, don't rely on the plastic release tabs that are present. Slide the release tabs out of the way and use one of the release tools available for under $10 at all of the auto parts stores (they are also the same release mechanism used on some fuel lines). Prop the radiator up higher to allow easier access.
-The illustration in RAVE of releasing the wiring harness from inside the vehicle (under the dashboard) confused me for a few moments. The access is on the passenger side; RAVE used an illustration of a right hand drive vehicle, it makes it appear as though the wiring connections are next to the gas pedal...
-Removing the 8 bolts on the front cross member was a super PITA. Baby them at first to avoid rounding the small 10mm heads. I soaked them in PB Blaster to little avail. I ended up grinding the heads off of half of the with a dremel tool wheel (the only thing small enough to access the recessed area).
-There are 14 bolts that hold the transmission bell housing to the engine block. I found that only 8 of them were accessible before the engine mounts were removed and the engine was lowered. Each of the bolts from the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position and up were easier to access from above with the engine lowered. Each bolt was a challenge in and of itself, I found a flex head ratcheting box wrench to be helpful on some of them. Don't be fooled by the third bolt down on the driver side; there is a bolt holding the exhaust sensor wiring right next to it and of the same head size...I removed that one and left it hanging on the bracket, and then couldn't figure out why the engine wouldn't separate from the bell housing.
-I waited to disconnect the exhaust sensor wiring multiplugs until the engine was lowered; it made for easier access.
-Did I miss the step for disconnecting the grounding cable at the back of the engine (drivers side)? Anyway, I broke the cable when I lowered the engine.
-The exhaust sensor multiplugs behind the cats are hard to access. Use a flashlight and get a good look at what you need to do before you blindly reach up there.
-The RAVE did not discuss how to unthread all of the behind cat exhaust wiring. After disconnecting the passenger side rear mulitplug, the wiring needs to be pulled back over to the drivers side (the wire runs over the drive train). And then, to allow this wiring to come out with the engine, the wire needs to be released a two points along the transmission (one point is a nylon tie that needs to be cut, and the other is a snap fitting that needs to be pushed up from below). Use a flashlight to get a good look at these attachments. You can then pull the wiring in to the engine bay, and pile it on top of the engine with all of the previously released wiring. Alternatively, I read posts where people resorted to cutting the wires (and soldering during re-installation), or to disconnecting all of the engine wiring harness from the engine and leaving it in the bay, both would have been more time consuming in the long run.
Last edited by mwohl; 07-08-2013 at 01:47 PM.
#2
11-29-2015, 10:21 PM
4wd High
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#3
08-21-2016, 09:10 PM
Questions
I'm in the middle of removing this motor and can't afford to break something and not find the part. I have a couple question about what you said here.
-The RAVE did not discuss how to unthread all of the behind cat exhaust wiring. After disconnecting the passenger side rear mulitplug, the wiring needs to be pulled back over to the drivers side (the wire runs over the drive train). And then, to allow this wiring to come out with the engine, the wire needs to be released a two points along the transmission (one point is a nylon tie that needs to be cut, and the other is a snap fitting that needs to be pushed up from below). Use a flashlight to get a good look at these attachments. You can then pull the wiring in to the engine bay, and pile it on top of the engine with all of the previously released wiring. Alternatively, I read posts where people resorted to cutting the wires (and soldering during re-installation), or to disconnecting all of the engine wiring harness from the engine and leaving it in the bay, both would have been more time consuming in the long run.
What is the passenger side multiplug and where will I see it at? There are some wires on the top of the trans that I can't really see. If I remove the motor mounts and lower the engine can I access these better? Does the trans mount need to be lossened to lower the motor?
-The RAVE did not discuss how to unthread all of the behind cat exhaust wiring. After disconnecting the passenger side rear mulitplug, the wiring needs to be pulled back over to the drivers side (the wire runs over the drive train). And then, to allow this wiring to come out with the engine, the wire needs to be released a two points along the transmission (one point is a nylon tie that needs to be cut, and the other is a snap fitting that needs to be pushed up from below). Use a flashlight to get a good look at these attachments. You can then pull the wiring in to the engine bay, and pile it on top of the engine with all of the previously released wiring. Alternatively, I read posts where people resorted to cutting the wires (and soldering during re-installation), or to disconnecting all of the engine wiring harness from the engine and leaving it in the bay, both would have been more time consuming in the long run.
What is the passenger side multiplug and where will I see it at? There are some wires on the top of the trans that I can't really see. If I remove the motor mounts and lower the engine can I access these better? Does the trans mount need to be lossened to lower the motor?
#5
08-22-2016, 09:05 AM
I'm in the middle of removing this motor and can't afford to break something and not find the part. I have a couple question about what you said here.
-The RAVE did not discuss how to unthread all of the behind cat exhaust wiring. After disconnecting the passenger side rear mulitplug, the wiring needs to be pulled back over to the drivers side (the wire runs over the drive train). And then, to allow this wiring to come out with the engine, the wire needs to be released a two points along the transmission (one point is a nylon tie that needs to be cut, and the other is a snap fitting that needs to be pushed up from below). Use a flashlight to get a good look at these attachments. You can then pull the wiring in to the engine bay, and pile it on top of the engine with all of the previously released wiring. Alternatively, I read posts where people resorted to cutting the wires (and soldering during re-installation), or to disconnecting all of the engine wiring harness from the engine and leaving it in the bay, both would have been more time consuming in the long run.
What is the passenger side multiplug and where will I see it at? There are some wires on the top of the trans that I can't really see. If I remove the motor mounts and lower the engine can I access these better? Does the trans mount need to be lossened to lower the motor?
-The RAVE did not discuss how to unthread all of the behind cat exhaust wiring. After disconnecting the passenger side rear mulitplug, the wiring needs to be pulled back over to the drivers side (the wire runs over the drive train). And then, to allow this wiring to come out with the engine, the wire needs to be released a two points along the transmission (one point is a nylon tie that needs to be cut, and the other is a snap fitting that needs to be pushed up from below). Use a flashlight to get a good look at these attachments. You can then pull the wiring in to the engine bay, and pile it on top of the engine with all of the previously released wiring. Alternatively, I read posts where people resorted to cutting the wires (and soldering during re-installation), or to disconnecting all of the engine wiring harness from the engine and leaving it in the bay, both would have been more time consuming in the long run.
What is the passenger side multiplug and where will I see it at? There are some wires on the top of the trans that I can't really see. If I remove the motor mounts and lower the engine can I access these better? Does the trans mount need to be lossened to lower the motor?
#6
08-23-2016, 11:04 AM
#7
08-23-2016, 09:09 PM
#8
08-23-2016, 09:11 PM
#9
08-24-2016, 09:24 PM
4th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2016
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The first time I pulled the engine in my D2 was excruciating. The second time (less than a year later) was much smoother.
I think some key areas are just accepting that the engine mounts have to be removed to get easy access to the upper bell housing bolts. The torque convertor-to-flexplate bolts are a pain too. Be sure to remove all four or you will be seating the torque converter back into the transmission for hours while cursing the darkness. Don't ask how I know. Also, whoever engineered the coil bracket way back in the dark recesses of the firewall, hidden under the upper intake, wasn't really thinking about easy access.
I think some key areas are just accepting that the engine mounts have to be removed to get easy access to the upper bell housing bolts. The torque convertor-to-flexplate bolts are a pain too. Be sure to remove all four or you will be seating the torque converter back into the transmission for hours while cursing the darkness. Don't ask how I know. Also, whoever engineered the coil bracket way back in the dark recesses of the firewall, hidden under the upper intake, wasn't really thinking about easy access.
D*
